John S

Or it could be the back drive rod needs adjustment.

They live amongst us and they are multiplying.

Already checked that out it’s OK but yes that can cause problems.

Well, it will work.

No, it doesn’t have a trailer harness. Sometimes I try to apply More’s law too many times if enough is good, more is better and too much is just about right. My 2006 Monte has larger gauge wires coming off the alternator and for power feeds. Of course there’s more draw on a newer car, higher amperage and other things. The wiring harness is original on my 1970 was just thinking about upgrading a couple of the power wires and if I did, I thought I would go up one gauge wire size. I didn’t know if it would be worthwhile to do it or not.

Everything is stock I want to upgrade the stereo. I put a new positive battery cable on. Don’t know if those wires or fusible links that are on there are reliable. I do know that 10 gauge wire requires 14 gauge fusible link. Thomas (MC 1 of 80) told me in a post That he usually replaces that wire off the positive cable with a direct wire since he says he’s had problems with them. I’m always looking to improve things. Sometimes I do the unnecessary, but it keeps me busy. I’m always trying to build a better mouse trap as long as it doesn’t turn into trying to reinvent the wheel.

On my 1970 Monte when I hit the brakes the lights momentarily dim. I’ve noticed that on other cars that I have owned from the 1970s. The alternator is new a 63 amp alternator rewired for internal regulator. Also, all of the grounds are good. I have braided wire from the engine to the firewall in two places, the firewall to the frame in two places, and the radiator support to the frame. My question and wondering what your thoughts are on this. I was thinking of replacing the wire from the positive terminal to the terminal block, the alternator to the four splice, and the terminal block to the four splice connection with 8 gauge wire. I’m thinking larger gauge wire more capacity. I thought years ago, I read a post where someone did this You think that might help? John S

OK thanks you’re right they do look like cloth in the pictures.

Hey Thomas, I’m looking at your interior pictures on your Monte. If you have the cloth seats, should the door panels also be cloth like yours are? John S

I’ve had good luck with NAPA and O’Reilly. Each battery lasted a little over five years. I’m not too concerned about the color because with the hood down and sitting in the driver seat, you can’t see it anyway. John S

I also have an older Pertronix ignition where the original coil is being used along with the resistor wire. But it is an older model. And it works fine no issues. I’m sure it’s better than breaker points. John S

I believe that is the picture I used as a reference. My carburetor had the ball stud on the front hole. That’s where it was always connected. Now it’s right and works as it should. Thank you for the pictures.

Yes, I do. I checked it visually with someone pressing on the accelerator pedal and it’s almost 70° here today so I took it out for a carbon blast on a county Road and did a quarter-mile run. Runs fine.

It’s surprising what happens when the throttle cable is connected in the proper position. The car idles. I’m able to use the original style throttle return spring. Even with simple issues. Everyone here is very helpful. You can see the throttle cable that was on the car that the sleeve had to be cut since the geometry was off. It would hang up if I didn’t cut part of that sleeve off. The new cable on the carburetor is the way it supposed to be. Thanks Bruce for the picture.

November 2020. Canuck posted a picture of his carburetor on a thread. His carb number is one off from mine. Mine is 7040203. His is 7040202 and his throttle is hooked to the top right hole, so I’m going to assume mine should be the same. And yes, make sure to verify closed throttle, wide open throttle, and smooth operation of the cable. Thanks.

My throttle cable can connect to three different holes on the carburetor. Does anyone have a picture or could tell me which one is the proper hole to connect the throttle cable to it is a 350 4 barrel with a four speed. Right now it is hooked up to the farthest forward hole. That is the way it was since I bought the car.

With your experience in machining, you should have no problem. I made an installer with a piece of 1/2 inch fine thread all thread, two correctly sized pieces of pipe one braced against the ears on the pumpkin, and the other sized to the diameter of the bushing, and a flat plate and drew them in by tightening the nut. And yes, I did freeze them overnight and lubricated them when installing. John S

Unfortunately, those prices take the average JOE out of it. People who work all their life and when they retire and want to buy a car they had in their past, maybe to relive younger days, or buy a classic car to drive around in simply cannot afford it. And I’m sure a number of these high roller buyers are simply going to put the car in storage For a future flip or maybe flip it sooner. I might get push back on this, but that’s why cars have wheels and tires on them, to drive. If you want to buy something that you’re simply going to park buy a house. That Davis and Jackson guy don’t help matters. I believe some of these sellers have quiet agreements with those two guys. A number of times the bidding will stop on a vehicle and one of those two guys will step in talk it up to get more money, take the average guy out of it, sell it to the high roller. I’ve watched enough of these auctions. It’s the same thing every time. OK I’ve vented for this week now I feel better. John S

Going to have to replace the carb accelerator pump. The type of plunger in there now is a double lipped cup without the garter spring. Quadrajet parts suppliers state to use the upgraded one with the garter spring. Does that make sense? I don’t see how it will make a difference as long as the diameter is the same 21/32. Seems like the only tricky part is finding the correct length. Has anyone dealt with this? John S

Thanks yes, I checked all of that. I disconnected The cable, pushed on the throttle arm to try to close it more. Everything moves freely. I guess the good thing is that it idles at 850 RPM instead of 1500 RPM. To double check that I have to use another tachometer. The tachometer in the gauge panel is 250 to 300 RPM off at idle 400 RPM off over 2500 RPM. If I close the choke or put my hand over the carburetor, the engine will quit, so I don’t think I have a big vacuum leak.

No did not pull the distributor. Timing is unchanged.

Let me ask you a question if I can Thomas regarding my vehicle. With the four speed, the car is supposed to have the TCS switch which controls vacuum to the distributor. The transmission is an older M20 without the TCS switch on it. I am missing the TCS solenoid, but all the wiring is there on the car. There are no ported vacuum outlets on the carburetor, what would you suggest then? The vacuum port on the carburetor that should go to the TCS solenoid now goes straight to the distributor and is full vacuum. Going back to a post I recently posted in engine tech maybe the advance is why the car won’t idle down. I would appreciate your thoughts on this. John S

No modifications in the works. Just trying to figure out an issue. I can back out the idle screw all the way and the engine will keep idling at 850 RPM. Pulled the carburetor check to make sure the throttle plates were fully closing and they were, nothing was in a bind. I had a slight hangup when releasing the throttle with the accelerator pump I replaced that operate smoother still same issue. At Idle the engine has 20 inches of vacuum. If I pull a vacuum line off the carburetor, the idle will increase, idle mixture screws are backed out to where it idles the best. I believe they are a little over 2 1/2 turns out. Maybe it’s nothing just thought that by backing out the idle stop screw the engine RPM would decrease until it quit running.

Does anyone have any pictures or can they tell me which carburetor base gasket is the correct one for a 350 4 bbl. I have three pictured they are all 1/4 inch thick. John S

That’s football that’s the way the game was meant to be played. Back in 1967, My uncle was at the ice bowl in Green Bay for the Green Bay Dallas Cowboys game. That’s what makes the game interesting. Being originally from Wisconsin teams from up north have, I believe, more dedicated fans, than the ones down south they’ll show up in any weather. And one thing that the game of football always shows us is that the best team does not always win, but the team that plays best does. That’s why the number one seed is not a guarantee to the Super Bowl.