cbolt

Funny thing is Antoine and I were discussing this very thing yesterday. My speedo can be accurate, off by 5 mph, or most commonly off by 15+ mph so the issue cannot be the tire size, wrong sized speedo gear, etc. I did a physical inspection of the gear and it looks fine so my guess is either the gear inside the tail cone that drives the speedo gear or the square hole on the output side of the speedo gear is worn. Im gonna check that today as I ran out of time yesterday.

I bench tested the speedometer with a drill and it works smoothly to 120mph. Then, I hooked the trans cable directly to the transmission and eliminated the B&M converter lockup control module and short connector cable, and the speedo was bouncing all over the place and very inaccurate. Next I disconnected the cable from the trans and ran the cable and speedo from the drill again with smooth results. So the obvious conclusion is the transmission is the culprit. I have been down this road before and was wondering if anyone else has had difficulty with a TH200 trans with several speedo gears

i had the same part break and contacted Leo for a replacement. He knew exactly what i needed and shipped it same day.

Makes sense and it did look like rust now that you mention it.

Took my dash apart for the upteenth time today to replace a faulty speedometer. What I found inside the housing was a lot of brown dust type material under the speedometer. I wonder where that came from and what the material was, also if that would have been an indicator that something inside the speedo was wearing prematurely. Being the faulty speedo was fairly new I will give it a thorough inspection to see if I can see why it failed. I managed to remove the whole gauge housing without removing the dash from the car, which is possible if you detach all the bolts, lower the steer

Just curious, did you check the flexplate to crankshaft and flexplate to converter bolts? Those suckers can sure make metallic noise if not properly torqued.

I stand corrected about the need for rebuild. I only looked at the pictures and read the thread header and failed to read the text about noises. So I would say with the material and secondary issues, aka noises, I recommend you rebuild it.

That isnt metal, it looks like clutch pack material. I wouldnt say it needs rebuilding, but a rebuild certainly wouldnt hurt. A 400 is pretty bullet-proof in the transmission world.

I think i would check the gas in the tank and replace the gas with fresh and flush the gas tank as well. All the prep work in the world wont be helpful if the gas in your fuel tank is 20 years old and mostly varnish. Otherwise the list looks pretty thorough.

Rob, I wish that was the case. A simple missing decimal point. Unfortunately the decimal point was there immediately following the second zero. Craziest thing I ever saw. I guess they just do not want to ship their products to Florida. We have already found a few side trips to make as well, including visiting my Aunt and Uncle in Las Vegas, and Yellowstone to name a few.

I'm looking to swap seats for more comfortable ones just for the western meet road trip and have a set of nice buckets that will be great. I went on the manufacturer site to get seat adaptors for them to fit in the Monte and the price was reasonable at around $80 per bracket. Great, right? Well I put the brackets in my shopping cart and went to check out only to find shipping from California to be.... are you ready..... (drum roll)... $2800! I could literally fly out to California, purchase them, and fly back with them in my carry on luggage cheaper than what that company wants for shipping.

Easy enough to go and check your car Wallaby. My car is super easy to check because the fuse block is relatively new and all the graphics are easy to read. I know with old cars sometimes the lettering can be missing or really faded which is why i figured it would be easy enough just to go check mine and see what's what. I thought it sounded right when i read the initial post but wanted to verify before opening my big old mouth. I learned a long time ago not to shoot from the hip when it comes to electrical stuff. Years of working as an electronics tech and I still like to read cir

My results are as follows: I backed the car out and disconnected the battery to simulate your conditions. Using a multimeter I read a dead short between the BATT fuse block terminal and ground. With the battery connected and a test light hooked between the BATT terminal and ground I get a steady light. Hope that helps

I would start with the last thing you did... wiring the Dakota digital dash. If you can, why not unplug the dash connector and see if you still have continuity between BATT and ground. That will at least tell you whether or not your new dash is the culprit. With that being the most likely thing to suffer if you do have an electrical issue I would remove it from the circuit to prevent shorting it out and ruining it, and then perhaps hook the battery up to see what happens next. That is after you have checked everything else visually and have no obvious bare wires contacting metal, checked the r