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cbolt last won the day on March 29 2018

cbolt had the most liked content!

About cbolt

Dues paying 10+ years
  • Rank
    Bronze Member
  • Birthday 04/06/1962

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Palm Coast, Florida
  • Interests
    Old cars, Motorcycles, Music
  • Legal Name
    James Seyboldt
  • Occupation
    Retired US Navy

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  1. Linda and I go to Lancaster each time we visit Philly, we both love it there. Also, we like to go to Gettysburg when we are in the area too, and now that you mentioned it we may skip the show field one day and take a trip to one or both places. Most people who know me know the car show is less about the show and more about the adventure. We drove to Deal's Gap when we went to Hiawassee a few years back and got to take the Monte on those twisting mountain roads. What a blast! The bus trip is a good idea. They have some great shopping in Amish country.
  2. My assembly manual shows the location of all the decals. The mark of excellence one isn't included on any of the illustrations.
  3. cbolt


    Love the Christmas lights.
  4. it all sounds like fun. I am a museum fan myself, but go karts are always a blast
  5. Make an offer. Ill send you pics via text if you like. Shoot me a text when you get this.
  6. I have some miscellaneous parts that I will bring to the EM if anyone is interested. Pair of 350 cylinder heads. Stock iron. Probably need valve seals otherwise were in good shape. I swapped to aluminum heads and no longer need the iron ones. Weiand intake manifold. Has been ceramic coated aluminum color and fits a spreadbore carb, but comes with a spacer/adaptor for squarebore carbs Crane energizer camshaft and roller timing gears and chain. Approximately 5k miles, shows no signs of wear. Pair of head. light bezels. I don't have room to store the manifold and heads so I thought someone might be able to use them. The headlight bezels are in good shape and hopefully someone needs a pair, plus are small enough to toss in the car for the trip to TN. I also have a set of doors, surface rust only, which need a good home too but I obviously cannot bring to the EM but I don't have room to store any longer.
  7. Jim still has a pair of doors. They are in good shape, virtually no rust. They have been sitting in my shed so they have been protected.
  8. That be me. Since retired LEO however. More time now to focus on my car addiction.
  9. I'm north of Daytona in Palm Coast. I would love to see what you are working with. I do have some odds and ends for parts lying around.
  10. Linda and I will be there, driving. If all goes well it will be the first road trip with the Edelbrock heads. We are all booked at both the event and hotel.
  11. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uQ_wsaQWwzE Made a vid of how to test that fuse. I have never created a youtube video before so be nice. A few notes: My tester is circa early 1990's and the ohm tester is on the fritz. I should have prefaced this with a statement about the first step in troubleshooting a circuit that doesn't function at all is a fuse check. 26 years as an AT taught me that. So what I have presented in the video is the first step in determining what the problem may be by either eliminating the fuse as the culprit or identifying the fuse as the issue. The video only addresses fuse checking, it doesn't address any other portion of the system troubleshooting. However if no voltage is present the issue is likely in the switch or the wiring. I know 40+ year old wiring can be problematic however 9 times out of 10 the switch will be the problem. I wanted to remove the fuse to demonstrate what the test would be if the fuse was bad, however my fuse block is relatively brand new and I don't have a spare glass fuse handy, so instead of risking damage to my current fuse I briefly described the test results if the fuse was blown/removed towards the very end of the video. I am relatively confident that between my quick video and the in depth circuit description provided by Paul anyone should be able to attack a no instrument light problem with confidence. Enjoy!
  12. ....aaaand this is why I don't post more. Of course you are right Paul. What was I thinking, advising him to check for voltage? (a test light would work as well, forgot to mention it earlier) Keep us posted as to what fixes the light issue Mike. I wont reply any longer, but I'll be happy to hear when you get it fixed.
  13. I think we are talking the same thing. If you don't have voltage at the fuse the issue isn't likely the fuse. I have never had an issue reading an installed glass fuse in the past, either with a volt meter, an ohm meter, a continuity tester,or even my fancy multimeter. LOL I hate pulling a good fuse to check it. Even with a glass fuse puller you risk breaking it, or at least I do.
  14. All you have to read is voltage on both sides of the fuse. You can also check continuity with the fuse installed, it will still read open if the fuse is blown.
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