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jrb70454

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About jrb70454

  • Rank
    1970 Monte Carlo
  • Birthday 04/26/1968

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Delaware
  • Interests
    Montes and Camaros
  • Occupation
    Facilities Manager

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  1. Twisting the bulb fixed it somehow, but radio worked with either the button pushed in (bulb off) and the door open, or the button not pushed (bulb on) and door open. It just wouldn't work with the door closed (bulb off). Some strange connection between the door, chassis and bulb? I guess I'll take a closer look at the dome light connections- maybe something is grounding out there. I'll replace the door switch as a matter of course too. And check the radio ground!
  2. I'm driving the Monte the other day and turn the radio on (aftermarket connected to the stock radio power wire). The radio turns on, but there is no sound. I try everything with the settings, CD, etc... no sound. So I drive back home and pull into the garage. Mess with everything again... no sound. I leave the key on and open the door to prepare to crawl under the dash- boom! Sound! Scared the crap out of me cause I had the volume turned way up. Close the door- no sound. Open the door- sound. Push the dome light switch in... I still have sound. ???? Close the door, no sound. Open t
  3. My 70 came with a console and it even had the door attached. The door is cracked and missing pieces, so I removed it and just left the console open. Those doors make me nuts because how cheap they feel- the two halves rub together and make that annoying plastic squeak. I never really intended to replace it, but I got tired of looking at and listening to the junk I store banging around in the console. I dug the door back out and installed it, and when I leaned on it with my elbow while driving- squeak! So, I came up with a cure. I sprayed "Great Stuff" spray foam (blue can) between the tw
  4. I had this happen on my passenger side fender too- the repop steel inner fender caused it. I loosed the bolts and it popped out, but I couldn't figure out how to tighten it back up without happening again.
  5. jrb70454

    headers...

    I'm kind of obsessive when it comes to little noises, taps and squeaks. Trying to chase them in a 40+ year old car is a challenge! A couple of weeks ago I dropped a new motor into the Monte (long story) and the weather finally let me get some seat time this weekend. The thing runs great but there was this weird rattle or whistle coming from what seemed to be the carb. It would go away when I put my hand over the throat of the carb- of course it would try to stall at the same time. I kept driving it and the rattle changed a little- but the "whistle" was still there. I then took a closer l
  6. Thanks! The voltmeter was a direct bolt in, and I don't think I had to modify much for the oil pressure gauge. The oil pressure gauge is mechanical, and the gauge mechanism makes it impossible to install the cluster light. I used electrical tape to cover the opening on the circuit board. There is a light with a white plastic base (different than the black base lights) in the hole behind the temp gauge, and that lights both gauges more than adequately. And yes, those screws are plastic- nylon actually- and yes they prevent grounding out. If you install a voltmeter from a chevy truck, t
  7. Hi all- many years ago I took my stock cluster and replaced the amp gauge with a voltmeter, replaced the fuel gauge with an oil pressure gauge and replaced the clock with a big fuel gauge. The stock cluster had the amp gauge, tach, speedo, big clock, temp gauge and small gas gauge. The donor gauges were from a 78 Suburban. Someone asked me if I could detail what I did, but I had already installed the cluster and didn't have any pictures. Today I removed the cluster again (dang that isn't easy!) to replace the Suburban gas gauge with a big gauge from a 70-72 Monte that I got on ebay.
  8. I ended up using this connector- spliced the water pump end off of another stock hose. Be Cool suggested a lower hose from a big block pick up but that didn't work. And I couldn't get Pace Car Jeff to make me a custom hose! This works- life is good!
  9. 2X thumbs up on the Morris mirrors AND the 3-point belts!!
  10. Thanks Doug- I sent a message to pacecarjeff! (Love this site! Two possible solutions for a crazy problem!)
  11. I was able to slip the 1 1/2" hose over the 1 3/4 outlet, but I know that will break much sooner than later. Unless I can find the right hose, I will get another hose with a 1 3/4 end and splice it with my existing hose. A short piece of steel 1 1/2 tubing at the splice is my plan- I'll hide the extra hose clamps under the plastic anti-collapse sleeve.
  12. Thanks Doug, I am awaiting a response from Be Cool. Here is the radiator and it says 1 3/4" outlet. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/bci-17008/overview/ I wonder if a big block Chevelle has a 1 3/4" outlet and they assumed a Monte would too. I fear no one makes this hose though. I might have to get creative... again!
  13. Hi all- I just purchased one of those stock-looking aluminum Be Cool radiators and the lower outlet is 1 3/4". Does anyone know if this is the standard outlet size for a "factory" big block radiator? The hose I have on the car is 1 1/2". I made it fit, but it is too stretched for my comfort. Will a hose specifically for a big block fit the 1 3/4" outlet? Thanks!
  14. Nice! I disagree though that the 3.31 and 2200 converter are drag-unfriendly! Big blocks make gobs of torque low in the rpms- more converter and gear throws it away. My 454 w/3.31 / 2400 converter / 275/60-15 MT DRs has nipped the 11's with a 1.69 60'. That 502 was moving upstairs with that 114! Play around with your launch and get that short time down and you'll see a .7. What is the whole combination?
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