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GatorDog72

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GatorDog72 last won the day on September 21 2017

GatorDog72 had the most liked content!

About GatorDog72

  • Birthday 12/03/1990

Contact Methods

  • Yahoo
    ryan.palmer45@yahoo.com

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Central New York
  • Interests
    Drag racing, Engines, working on cars, ATV/snowmobiles
  • Legal Name
    Ryan L Palmer
  • Occupation
    Welder/ Fabricator

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GatorDog72's Achievements

  1. It's got the 4v closed chamber heads. 11:1 compression. I gave this a try and put a 31 in the front. I used an extra one from the previous carb. It did exactly what I expected it to do, so I'm on the right track. I was able to lean out the idle circuit and it cleaned up the initial hit, but opening the secondaries still causes a lean bog. That's with 31's front and rear. I'm gonna put the 35 in the rear and see what it does.
  2. Here's an awesome video from Engine Masters on this exact topic. I love this series on Motortrend, I highly recommend watching some of their videos.
  3. Heads and a big roller cam will net some gains, but that rear gear is really holding you back. Swapping to a 3.42 gear ratio would make a world of difference. I have 4.10's in mine but highway cruising is not exactly efficient 😆
  4. As long as the housing stays with the car, replacing the ring and pinion with something aftermarket would be considered maintenance. Anyone combing over the car for original parts is never going to know you replaced the pinion. Don't go cheap on the rear end parts, get good stuff from a company like Moser or Strange Engineering. It's one of those jobs you don't want to do twice.
  5. I just installed a brand new Holley 750 double pumper on my father's car. It runs pretty well right out of the box. It's installed on an F-word 351c with a 4 speed. I know.... it's not a Chevy, but were gonna pretend it is 😆. When I get the idle circuit dialed in where its happy, it will sneeze and backfire out of the carb when you give the throttle a good whack. (too lean) It goes away completely if I intentionally dial the idle circuit too rich, but then its blowing black clouds and smells like gas. I'm thinking my pump nozzles are way too small, it has a 28 in the front and a 31 in the rear. I'm trying not to guess in the dark, the whole nozzle tuning kit from Holley is almost $200. I'm thinking step up to a 31 nozzle in the front, 35 in the back. Any thoughts?
  6. That helps for sure! So mine is measuring 24 3/4” on the driver side and 25 1/4” on the passenger from the same points you measured from. Not only is it off center by 1/2”, the frame is really wide for some reason. I’ve never had an issue with crab walking or going straight at all. Nothing looks bent, other than the crossmember. The body sits square on the frame with even gaps on both sides. I’m totally confused 😐 why is it so wide???
  7. That did not take you very long to get that engine slammed in there!! Looks great!!! Everything minty fresh. 🤩
  8. Got most of my electrical gremlins sorted out today. Got the headlights and signals working, but my tail lights are in need of some tlc. Looking at doing the LED conversion so they are a little easier to see.
  9. Nothing like a brand new engine! Looks great!!
  10. I think I've got a pretty big problem here. I took some measurements on the frame at several different points and the results are not good. Measuring across the crossmember, the measurement from the center of the bolt hole to bolt hole should be about 53 1/2"-ish. I'm measuring 54 1/4" at those points. I also measured the middle body mount holes center to center. Should be 53 1/2", mine measures 54". The front frame mounts center to center should be 52 3/8", mine measures 53 1/2". I'm going to go back through all these measurements to make sure its accurate. If its truly that far off, I have a really big problem.
  11. The alignment holes are spot on. Body mounts look like they’ve already been replaced. It has to be something with either the front engine mounts or the rear trans mount/crossmember. It’s probably worth noting that my rear end is an aftermarket Strange S60. Basically a Dana 60 with mounts to fit an A body. I checked it to make sure it’s square in the frame. There may not even be a problem with the drivetrain alignment, it could just be a bad pinion angle. Just seems to me that the driveshaft should sit more in the center of the tunnel.
  12. I really hope the body is on the frame square because the roll cage goes through the floor and is solid welded to the frame. That would be an absolute nightmare if I ever had to move the body. Also it's a rubber trans mount. I'm going to switch it to poly because I've heard the solid ones will break the case. I never did replace the body mounts on the car. Only the front two where the core support mounts. I probably should have done that before the cage.....
  13. My father and I will be there. I just called the hotel this morning, all taken care of. Member Last Name: Palmer Member First Name: Ryan Club Website Screen Name: GatorDog72 Name of others in your party (please include ages of kids: John Palmer Total number in your Party: 2 City: Syracuse State: NY Arrival Date: Thursday, 6/23/22 Departure Date: Sunday 6/26/22 Year of your Monte: '72 Color: Green/Black Vinyl Top Yes/No: no Vinyl Top Color: Class Registration: Modified Hotel: Fairfield Room Type Qn/Qn, King: QN/QN Email Address: ryan.palmer45@yahoo.com
  14. At this point, I don't really know for sure what is going on with it. It certainly doesn't look like the drivetrain is lined up straight to me. My plan of attack is to first replace that OEM crossmember with one that actually bolts solid to the frame. Hopefully that will solve the issue, it needs to be replaced anyway. I could just replace the tailshaft bushing but I want to know why it went bad in the first place.
  15. Hers some pictures of both the left and right engine mounts, I can’t find anything wrong here.
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