Big Jim

I have a 72 with 350 4 barrel 350 turbo and 3:31 posi rear end. At 70 MPH And I’m running 3500 rpm’s. Would like to run less rpms. Contemplating a 2004R. Please make a recommendation on where to get complete changeover kit.

I had a really good time as well. Hope I can make it to Carlisle.

I did change the fan clutch to the heavy duty version and it seems to be much harder to turn than the standard unit. If this doesn’t work I will check the radiator to see if there is a restriction. Thank you for your reply.

I also put a manual cutoff on the heater hose and once I cut it off it started to overheat.

It only rises when in drive thru or a parade where not moving much.

Well it’s a new brass and copper 3 row radiator. New cap, New water pump and thermostat, and hoses.New standard fan clutch.

Would it be ok to run a Heavy Duty fan clutch on a 350 small block. I have a new Advance Standard Duty on it now but doesn’t seem to be working. Tend to overheat in a drive thru or a parade or a long light.

Well we found the problem was not the actuator but the blend door pin. Making a new pin.

I changed the source vacum line up to the tee near the switch and still not opening all the way. I guess it could be a bad actuator or a vacum switch under the the control panel. I was hoping it would be something simple. Maybe I'm not getting enough vacum but everything else seems to be working. Defrost and defog, Heater. The door closes when on heat. I feel like the door needs to open all the way on Max. Any suggestions?

I have another 72 Monte and have replaced all of the under hood AC parts and charges well but not blowing well through upper vents. I pulled Dash pad and Middle vent and see a actuator door that apparently goes to AC box and it will not open all the way no matter where I have the controls are but will close when set on heater. Could this be an actuator gone bad? Everything else seems to work fine.

I just ordered a Flo Kooler from Summitt.

How did the Weiand water pump work for you?

I went to a Vintage Air Dealer today and got a quote of $1480 for system plus some for heater hoses and belts. $1200 for installation. What do you think? My 72 is a factory air car.

I checked and I already have a blue shunt resistor on the gauge. I cleaned the contacts and put it back on and it reads slightly lower than 210. I checked the resistance on it and it was 92.

I did find a factory resistor on ebay for my temp gauge and will install the resistor and let you know if it works. It installs vertically. http://www.ebay.com/itm/381360555767

I kind of thought that as well but it would be nice if it were more accurate.

Hi lasts. I am having the same issue. I installed a new 3 core Brass and copper radiator, A new fan clutch, new radiator hoses,180 Thermostat, New sending unit and my temp gauge is still reading 210+ We checked with a infrared thermometer and it shows 180. What resistor do I need and does it go on the gauge? My engine is a 350 that has been rebuilt with auto trans. I also noticed this engine has 2 sending units. 1 on each head. We unplugged the passenger side and it didn't change the gauge. Later found it was for TCS for emmisions.

I do have a new thermostat (195 stant) to install.

Not sure I want to attempt the block plugs.

I haven't done this in a while and am trying to figure out best way to do this without using a flush machine.

Strato Buckets all the same except for covers.

I sent Morris an email to ? replacements for my car.

I see what you mean about the molded plastic not fitting I remeber it was hard to get them to go in. Do we have to contact Morris to get the corrected belts?

Mine had a cap that popped in the hole. It seems they are a little short but maybe it's best that way to keep them out of the way.

Mine had a cap that popped in the hole.