NateZ

Yeah, not sure how I missed this thread, but here's some pics of me and the family. My lovely wife and I a few years ago at Christmas: And again at a Christmas party a year ago ... Me and my folks back at the farm: And for kicks, this is me and my boss the day I got out of the Navy. Yes, I used to wear glasses (had Lasik since then):

The 70's style pics seem fitting don't they? It's a really good guide. Used it when I swapped out the existing dash in my Chevelle. ~ Z

If you haven't narrowed it down yet, here's some troubleshooting to try: 1) Locate the fuel sender feed wire near the fuel tank. You're looking for a single tan colored wire. With the tan wire disconnected at the fuel tank, the fuel gauge should read past full with the ignition on. Wait a few moments as some fuel gauges take a long time to respond. Touch the tan wire from the body to any convenient ground and the gauge should read empty. If not, you have a wiring problem or a bad gauge. 2) If the gauge responds correctly, the gauge and wiring are OK. Next use a multi-meter to measure resistance to ground of the sender wire connection on the top of the fuel sender or the tan wire from the top of the fuel tank. Measurements should track the fuel in tank. Full - 84-88 ohms Half - 40 ohms, give or take Empty - 0-2 ohms If this doesn't check, then sender or wiring on top of the tank is bad or the sender not adequately grounded. Senders are typically grounded by a black wire which is welded to the sender and attached to the body with a sheet metal screw. 3) If the sender checks OK but gauge and wiring don't, clean the connections, reconnect the sender wiring and separate the Fisher connector (located just outboard of the fuse block under the dash). The gauge should then read past full. Ground the tan wire in the dash side of the Fisher connector and the gauge should read empty. If not, you probably have a bad gauge or possibly a dash wiring problem. Go to Step 5. 4) If the gauge checks OK, then make the same resistance checks to the tan wire in the body side of the Fisher connector. If the readings are different than those at the sender, body wiring has a problem and requires detailed inspection. If they look OK, then the Fisher connector is probably dirty. 5) Clean and reconnect Fisher connector, pull the connector off the back of the gauge and make the same resistance checks to the tan wire. If they don't check, you have a dash wiring problem. If they check OK, your gauge is bad. Gauges can be bench-checked but this is best left to a specialist. Regards, Nate

For the future, here's a link to a procedure to remove and/or install the dash: Chevelle/Monte Carlo Dash Removal* * This was originally published in The Chevelle Report and was re-written by Ground Up Restorations using larger pictures for better clarity.

Ben, There are some instances where the Fisher trim tag production date and the actual date the car was built were off a little. Consider that productions were scheduled well in advance of the actual build date. It would take 3-4 days to build a Monte or Chevelle once it was scheduled, and the Fisher trim tags were stamped in advance -- when the car was scheduled. From what I've seen the trim tags can be off a little. But Baltimore was pretty good about staying on schedule. An example I have is a Baltimore-built SS that was scheduled (per the build sheet) on 2-25-70 and the trim tag says "03A." The 25th was a Wednesday and given 3-4 days to build would make the trim tag correct by showing the first week of March. FYI, the last production number for cars rolling off the assembly line (recorded by the last six digits of the VIN) at Baltimore for March, 1970, was 168120 and for April was 182090. They built Chevelles and Monte Carlos there, so that month (April, 1970) they built a combined total of 13,970 cars. Using that number and assuming an average of 3,500 cars built each week in April, you could look at the last six digits of your VIN and get a rough idea when it was built (if you follow my meaning) by subtracting the last VIN in March (168120) from your VIN. Then you could compare to your trim tag and see if it's close. For Baltimore, I'm betting it's correct. Also note that April 1, 1970 was a Wednesday, and it has not been determined if the build dates on trim tags started on the first "full" week in a month, or rolled over regardless of when the first day of the month fell in the middle of a week or not. Regards, Z

Well of course I have all those! Even better I have signed affidavits from every person on the assembly line in 1969 who built it. Tracking them down was difficult of course, but I used my connections at Government Motors (GM). You crack me up as always, Dave.

Thanks for correcting me. After many long minutes of research, it has been determined that my Monte is truly a 1 of 1: a 1970 Nickey-Yenko-Baldwin Motion COPO LS-6 Monte Carlo convertible with a M-25 rock "insulter" five-speed automatic (1 of 1 prototype transmission built by Oldsmobile). I installed the M-19 rock "curser" manual trans to save on gas. You know, don't want people to get the facts wrong.

You guys are so cynical. For all you non-believers I happen to own the only '70 COPO LS-6 Monte Carlo in existence. The block is made entirely of unobtanium and is stamped with the letters "LOL." True story.

With my 502 I went with Hooker Competition Headers from Summit, p/n HOK-2455-1HKR. They are ceramic coated, full length headers, with 2" primaries. No clearance issues at all. I did relocate the proportioning valve to avoid heat and clearance issues. For the exhaust I went with a Pypes 2.5" system with "X" crossover (SGA-11) and either their Violator or Race Pro mufflers. Don't remember which it is, I'd have to go look. The crossover has dumps with plate covers too if you ever wanted to run an open exhaust. www.pypesexhaust.com In the future, I'm going to install some electric cutouts if for no other reason than I can and I like to be annoying on occasion. Suffice to say, my HP is over 525 and the 2.5" setup works great. ~ Z

The "Clark W. Griswold" Award, perhaps? - Z

Now THAT was funny, Mark! You should send that post to the owner of the Chevelle. He'd probably be surprised that he hadn't thought of how complicated his car his become. I dig the craftsmanship and ideas, though. Just too much to remember or I'm too simple. Probably the latter. ~ Z

You might be able to change the profile with a G-Force crossmember: ** LINK ** ~ Z

I'm with ya, Dave! It's his dead-pan delivery of jokes that would make him perfect for the role. Loved Eugene in the movie "The Man" with Samuel L. Jackson. Too funny! ~ Z

And "dancing banana" to Barb for capturing the Kodak moment?

Congrats, Mike! And tell your wife she took a really nice photo there. If I had the camera I would've missed the launch for sure, then there'd be no proof! ~ Z

Wow, Dave -- me must timeshare the same brain because I've been thinking the exact same thing! ~ Z

Will do!

Thanks, forgot to respond to his request. By the way, that's my buddy Dale's website (www.ChevelleStuff.com). Great info there. He's really done his homework. He's the guy that I have been working with to try to decipher certain parts of build sheets. ~ Z

Davey, have you ever tried super fine steel wool, i.e. #0000 grade, to polish the trim/remove scratches? I'm curious how well it would work as opposed to sand paper. I use #0000 steel wool on my Harley to polish the pipes because of the road grime they pick up and it works wonders, but never have tried it on any of the trim on my 'Velle. ~ Z

Actually Sam, those are "SS" tail lights you have. The "SS" stands for "Super Shiney!" Sorry, couldn't resist. I've been today and even though my wife said , I and and posted it anyway. I'm that way.

+1 for a BB. My 502 had zero issues in the heat particularly in traffic. I got my aluminum radiator from Alumitech Reproductions, along with the electric fans. Works better than factory by a long shot and looks like the original Harrison rad. Plus, Don (the owner) is a great guy to deal with. Alumitech And besides, there's so much friggin' room under the hood, you might as well. In fact, on a quiet night, if you listen closely, you can hear your engine bay calling to you: "Biiiiiiiig blooooooooock .... Biiiiiiig blooooooooooooooooock ..." I'm just sayin'. ~ Z

The rear axle identification code consists of a three letter prefix (two letters in '71 and '72) indicating the gear ratio, four digits indicating the assembly date as month/day, and a single letter suffix indicating the manufacturing location (again slightly different in '71 and '72). The identification code should be stamped on the bottom or font of right axle tube either adjacent to the carrier housing or about 8" - 10" inboard from the backing plates. If you tell me the year, I'll post the codes. ~ Z

Pretty much every year and every car. Nice collection. Little thin on Monte Carlos, though: ** LINK ** ~ Z

+1

Thanks for the "welcome back" & the link, Vaughn, and thanks Greg for posting the article. I'm collecting data for the future as I tend to do. Someday I'd like to do a clone of this one-of-a-kind car, but for now I'm trying to get Hemmings Muscle Machines to do a feature on this car. I have a feeling they don't even know it exists. ~ Z