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About Mfoge5

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  • Birthday 04/13/1970

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  • Location
    San Francisco
  • Legal Name
    matt foge
  • Occupation
    Sheet metal worker
  1. Thanks I think I got it.. I checked and tightened any grounds I saw under the dash the door jamb switch headlight switch.. Found that my passenger side front marker bulkb was out and replaced it.. Then replaced the turn signal switch. Ill just say it was this combo thatwas needed.. Those LED lights are 100-150% better than incandescent. thanks
  2. Ok still playing around with it and I have to edit what is working and whats not... tail lights work when I pull the headlight switch and when I said they were bright I am seeming to think thats bcuz the brake lamps are illuminated. if i hit the pedal the passeger side will blink twice and then dim. I took the steering wheel off to change the turn signal switch and began playing around with the old switch and am beginning to think it may be as ground issue. Ive been finding things a bit corroded after this rain and things were leaked on I see nowis there something that shows the ground locations??? I know that I had some ground issues with my corvette and they caused all sorts of weird and unhelpful failures of different components in the car.. I know that the c4 is way more electrical than the 70 MC butI now realize grounds are grounds no matter how elaborate and they are critical to things working right ...I will post any other details as I probe the column and dash..
  3. Ok recently was told by someone who followed me home I didnt have any brake lights. Everything else seemed fineI had been putting it off until recently when I came across a set of LED tail lights. I install the LEDs and there is LIGHT!! these things are bright !!! all except for my drivers side brake and blinker... Tail light works .. all passenger and front lights work. I am getting power to the orange wire at the brake switch. Should I be getting power to both??? from what I have read the drivers side brake and blinker go through the directional switch in the column .. Correct??? so thats most likely the culprit ??? not the brake light switch... Or is it a ground?? if it could be can someone let mne know where they all are i should check. Basically my question is Am I on the right track ??? I know you guys have answered this exact question already but everyone has their own little special circumstance I guess. But thanks in advance It is truly appreciated...
  4. Hey check out this place I needed a qjet for my G National they are cheap here https://www.nationalcarburetors.com/
  5. Mfoge5

    C4 parts swap

    Cool thanks thats what i was looking for ... Ill check it out and see what the diff. is
  6. Mfoge5

    C4 parts swap

    Hey guys I have a question about swapping parts in my 70 MC. Mainly if its possible and how difficult or is it worth the effort. Ok so I recently wrecked my 88 C4 vette. (fell asleep on way home from work) and went under a van so only body damage and I basically have everything else to use from it if I want. I have the L98 and D.N. 4-3 tranny the suspension and Dana 44 rear end. So my question is where to find TPI to Abody swap info I remember someone saying theres a guide i think and If the suspension and rear end is a practical Low budget upgrade or not or if its too much effort for little reward.. If anyone can point me towards any info or books or has done any of these swaps I would be grateful ... thanks Fellas!!!
  7. Mfoge5

    Charging Issue

    Update ..... So I put in the internally reg. Alt and no change the dummy lite still blaring on!! I read something about if the bulb in the dummy lite is bad it may cause a problem so I pull it to check it but duh it was on right.. I start the engine with the bulb pulled and rev it and BOOM 14.1v!!!! So what does that mean??? It wont charge with the bulb in there but is working fine without it????
  8. Mfoge5

    Charging Issue

    Ok thanks I am gonna give it a try with the internal alt again because I had the led bulb in when I tried the first time.. I put the reg bulb in and now the Gen lite stays on... Also if this can help anyone else there a really good video on youtube on how to convert external to internal alternator Heres the link Thanks for you help!!!!
  9. Mfoge5

    Charging Issue

    It does have an aftermarket radio and amp... would it just happen like that when those items were installed already and things were running normallyprior?? It was driving at 13.5v ... the battery is 875 CA 700 CCA.. It was the biggest one available at the time at my mechanics shop and I actually just grabbed it when I was putting in the engine Bcuz i was low on cash and I could put it on my tab, and figured a fresh new one would be better. I had left my lights on a couple times and it went completly dead dead on me so I had him switch it out for a new one a couple days ago.. I was actually planning to pick up an Optima soon not sure if thatll make a difference Ive never had one but Ive never heard anything bad at all about them. Would the small battery make the dummy lite go on?? I wish I had the right bulb in there so I knew exactly when it went on.. Another thing I saw was the printed circuit wasnt in the best shape could that effect this issue at all???
  10. Mfoge5

    Charging Issue

    Ok I am having an issue with my charging system. I have read and tried everypossible remedy I could find and now Im out of resources and asking for the experiences and know how you guys have... Alright I have a 70 and just put a new engine in it (350c.i.) and things seem to be fine until a couple weeks ago I noticed my gauge at about 11.7v while i was driving... I automatically thought Alt. I had to goto work the next morning so I put it on the tender and in the am drove over 20 min with my lights on to work with no problem. I kept doing this and would try to fix it in the eves. with no change... its got a new starter and ex.volt reg. (Autozone $20 about 3 mos ). Alternator (Oreilys Ultima 61 amp) is only a couple days old and I just got back from having them test it again to make sure it was good since the first was bad right out of the box. Battery (Interstate) is 2 days old. Ive checked the wiring and cleaned every connection I could find on the battery Alt, Regulator, horn relay, splice and grounded the block to frame, and cleaned others on the fender and firewall and ended up running a loop from battery to alt neg post to block to Alt bracket.. I checked noltages at the Bat key off -12.5 running 12.31 Alt running post to post is 12.31 Volt reg key on eng off F-0v #2 .01v #3-12.31v #4 .05v Eng running-No changes. From what ive read #2&4 should have voltage running around 3.2 and full v respectively and shouldnt have any when KOEO. I also borrowed a delco Int. reg alt. 12s from a friend and jumped the F-4 and 2-3 at the Volt reg connection with no difference.. I checked my Gen light and forgot I put LEDs in when I got the car but I thought I took them out so I checked them and made sure they were reg bulbs and now the Gen lite is on when keys on and engine is running.. Im stumped I dont understand how I can drive it with barely any drop in voltage (drives at about 11.7-8v) w/lites on. I see that it dips slightly when I hit the brakes though.. Could it be the gauge and the dummy lite? I saw the Alt had wiring diag. for either or. Is it a wiring problem?? Fuse panel??? Sorry so long but i was trying to give as much info as possible... Thanks in advance for any ideas fellas....Let me know if more info is needed Ill test whatever and get right back and I can post pics if necessary too..
  11. Hey guys .. I am looking to replace me stock alt. since its pegging my volts guage at 17.9v was hoping it was the regulator so i replaced that but still the same. ive read alot of the conversion posts already so I know it can be done just wondering if it can be done with a specific alt. I have a perfectly good alt from my 96 Impala its a CS-144 i believe can this be used?? Do the coversion kits work for certain models only? This Alt is IR 140 amps the connector plug has 4 small pins and then the batt. post on the back.. I was hoping this could be used since i have it and only need to buy a pigtail or kit instead of a whole new unit... thanks
  12. Also to you guys... first Monte70car if those pics are b4 and after then youre my idol and thats where im trying to go and MCfan if either one of those 2 beautiful girls arent busy Im asking for your blessing to marry.....lol Badasss rides my friends..!!!!!
  13. Awesome thanks for the info.. I was surprised when i got under there finally and saw the super sweeping up and over the exhaust doesz over the reare end,.,, it literally goes almost vertical and then U's and almost vertical back down and I guess it was the last thing before they sold it cuz its still new and so i guess they filled the shocks and did the exhaust and sold it... no worries thoughthe price was well worth it... So as it sits the pipes run 1" or less in front of the fill valve on thew shocks so I will give the spin 180 a shot and see where im at and let you guys know.. I just didnt want to do it and be overlooking something common orsimple focusing on the problem only.. BIG Thank you to Monte70car and MCfan you both have been helpful on so many other occasionshelping others so I didnt even have to post... you guys rock!!!! Heere she is I just got these 17" rims in a trade for an old laptop i wasnt using I paid $40 for I had to buy adapters but i think they look alright... thanks again guys
  14. Ok i have a quick question about Monroe air shocks Ive searched and couldnt find an answer no thatnks to Monroes support and crappy website so im here cuz you guysz rock and have gotten me outta many situations already with your info and answers... Ok Recently picked up a 70 Monte and its been sitting tilted so I figured lets change the springs and shocks since they are probably original. I get under there to find that it already has air shocks on it. I knew it had new ex. pipes front to back but what happened was the exhaust bend that swoops over the rear end goes directly infront of the valve on the shocks so there were no lines fill valve etc. I have the kit to install the lines but on one side its gonna be tight and will most likely be on the exhaust which of course is NO K this is becuz clearance is minimal 1" or less on both sides... so is there a 90 degree fitting i could get or can i switch the rear shocks and have thre valve pointing opposite direcxtion.. I knw the install man. says to install w/ valve facing towards center of vehicle but is that mandatory or only for easy of routing the tee and airline??? Now ive tried to find an answer and couldnt get a definite and fronm looking at the shocks themselvesthey are symetrical correct?? the only distinguishing factor is the fill valve, so if switched would i be ok??? actually i went and looked at the shocks and they are the same.. the valve is centreline and perpendicular to the direction of the mounting pin so no need to switch them right just spin them 180????? any known clearance issues or problems id face?? Im just looking to see if this is a doable remedy or not? from someone whos been under a car (and basically my car)before and not sitting behind a desk reading the protocol answer provided which still doesnt answer the question.. Thanks in advance and Im sure i made this longer than necessary but maybe im venting indirectly since I feel this shouldnt be too hard to get an answer to from the actual manufacturer and couldnt so i turn to where i shouldve started in the begining... thanks guys any more info needed lmk.....M Ok just thought of this... hook up the airline which is possible as is, it just couldnt stay permanently, fill, and remove...... i think i answered my own issue but please if im wrong or you know of anything easier or better please feel free to say something cuz my frustation is growing and perspective is shrinking so I just may be overlooking the obvious by now....lol thanks
  15. Ok whats up everyone I was hoping to have the question of camel humps vs vortecs answered for my build.. I have been doing someresearch and seem to think the vortecs are the way to go but if I do will they work or what will it take to get them to work. Ok I recently picked up a 1970 Monte (for $1100!! H#ll Ya!!) and am am adding and replacing some thingson the motor (350c.i.) and I have come across a pair of vortecs casting 187 for really really cheap all rebuilt and ready to go.. My question is/are ..are they worth it performancewise ? replacing my stock 186camel humps.. if they are will they work with my cam ?? comp 30/30 .504 lift? No right? so what will they need to work exactly ?? from what Ive read its manifold, guides ground down and springs? Is that all? thanks for the help....
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