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lowcadillac

(Non-dues paying)
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  • Location
    United Kingdom
  • Legal Name
    Tony Holden
  • Occupation
    Transport Manager

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  1. Hello everyone, took the Chevy out today for the first time in months and started making the to-do list. Anyone know what size the bolts are that attach the front fenders to the inner wheel arch liner? The bolts come up from under the wheels arch and screw into captive nuts.
  2. Thanks for the advice guys, so if I’m going to do the top bushes as well I guess I’m better off loosening one side at a time to gain a bit of extra access and keep the axle stable. I’ll post some pics of how it goes as soon as I can get in the garage.
  3. On the floor with axle stands and a trolley jack. Not sure how ‘compressed’ the rear springs are in situ, don’t want them flying out if I try to lower the axle a bit to improve access to top bushes. Can’t seem to find any step by step info anywhere 🤔
  4. Just the bushes for the top arms. Do you know if I need spring compressors to remove the rear springs, as I want to put new rubber seats on the top of them while I’m at it, or just lower the axle a bit with the shocks and lower arms disconnected?
  5. Hi from the UK, was wondering if anyone’s got any good advice for replacing the rear upper control arm bushes. Keep sliding under the car to have a look and can see this being one of those jobs that you wish you had never started! Do you think dropping the axle is the best way to go or just persevere with drills, chisels and various other tools? I’m kind of thinking that I might just do the lower ones as I’ve bought the arms complete and leave the top ones alone.
  6. Yes I do think it may be settling.I think I might just loosen the mounting bolts and bounce it a few times then retighten. I did the job in my garage one side at a time as it’s not the biggest garage so had the jack under the ball joint when I tightened the mountings but not the full weight of the car I guess although driving it should have settled it I would think.
  7. Just been out for a cruise about and got to thinking about why it’s higher and did think it could be the lower arm pocket as the springs are the same and in the same position as on the old arms. The thing is it’s probably not that much different and people wouldn’t notice but you get to know your own car. What height in general are people’s Montes though measuring from the ground through the centre of the wheel to the arch? I’m about 26”?
  8. Hi all, just replaced my top and bottom front suspension arms and reckon I’m sitting higher at the front than I was. The new lower arms only had an oval drain hole rather than 2 holes so I located the spring tail half way over the oval. Do you reckon this is correct or should I pull it apart again and turn the spring?
  9. I’d really like to fit a temperature gauge in my ‘70. What happens if I do away with my TCS senor and fit a temp sensor there? Or is it just more sensible to do away with the coolant light and fit my new sensor there instead. TCS sensor on the right side of the engine and temp light sensor on the left,is that correct?
  10. The brake pipe is Kunifer tubing. The original coupling had been damaged by a previous person who had changed the hoses and rounded the nut off so had to get another pipe made up at my local car shop. The master looks the same as one called A-1 Cardone recommended for 70 on Rock auto site.
  11. Here’s the master cylinder and the offending caliper. Actually got the car back together and brakes bled now as had the last outdoor show of the season this weekend. I’m going to run it for a while and see if the caliper eases up. If not Rock Auto seem to do some at a reasonable price so I may order a couple and see what happens. Water pump and sump gasket next 😬
  12. Ok ok this is getting a pain in the rear now. I’ve had the calipers rebuilt,fitted new hoses,rebuilt the rear brakes for good measure,bled the brakes tonight and guess what...........it’s still the same!! Well there’s an improvement on the passenger side but the drivers side binds. If you push the piston back with a pry bar it seems to move back in freely enough. Cracking the brake lines doesn’t make much difference either. I'm in the process of trying to find someone over here in the UK who has a spare caliper that I can try to rule that out,then I guess it could be the master cylinder although my eye keeps being drawn to that distribution block on the frame. Is there any obvious difference in the master cylinders between drum drum and disc drum? It had a new one fitted before I bought it so possibly could be the wrong one. I’ll get there in the end but that’s part of the fun I guess.............🤔
  13. Hi all,anyone know what size the brake lines are and what thread the line connectors to front caliper hoses are?
  14. An update on my brake problem,I’ve decided to do an overhaul of the system so I’ve dropped the calipers off at a local shop to clean check and replace the piston seals. I’ve fitted new rear cylinders,just as well as one was weeping and replaced all the springs and shoes too. While putting the new shoes and springs etc back,which is a bit of a pain as everything kept falling off I noticed that on the passenger side the actuator doesn’t quite touch the star wheel but on the drivers side it does. Which is correct? Is the actuator supposed to maintain constant contact with the adjuster wheel or does it just touch when the brakes are applied? I don’t fully understand how it works. What stops it constantly adjusting up until the wheel stops turning completely? Both actuators move freely and everything is new so I can’t see what is wrong. The attached image shows the springs etc and although you can’t see it I’ve put the adjuster spring on the correct way round.
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