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Rancid87

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Rancid87 last won the day on May 25

Rancid87 had the most liked content!

About Rancid87

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Southern NJ
  • Legal Name
    Steve
  • Occupation
    IT

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  1. The easiest approach would be to run a braided fuel line from the tank to the pump. You could also use regular steel fuel line and install it in sections and use rubber hose and clamps to join it. I'd probably just run braided line. I've used it in several cars and its pretty easy to work with.You would just need to get a couple hose ends and fittings to make it all work properly.
  2. I bought a pre-bent kit for mine so I can't say exactly how much you will need for each line on a Monte. I have made my own brake lines in other cars or trucks and I've always just bought a coil. A single 25' coil of 3/16 line has usually been enough with a little bit left over. I used the 3/16 for everything and never noticed an issue with rear brake performance. The nickel copper line is a joy to work with!
  3. I've always removed the shell. You can cut some spacers to fit inside the control arm so you don't crush the stamped steel when you are removing or reinstalling them. I usually use angle iron.
  4. The wires at the canister look like they are probably for the external regulator.
  5. I have lowering springs in the front of mine and stock replacements in the rear. I don't particularly care for the way these cars look like they sit high in the front. I only have beater 14" rally wheels on it now but might give you some perspective.
  6. From my experience even NOS parts can fit poorly. There are winners and losers with whatever you buy. I certainly wouldn't write these fenders off as junk without seeing them first.
  7. Maybe these pics will give some perspective of where the hole is. You can see the first hole closest to the door jamb support. If it's not those holes than I'm not sure which ones you are referring to!
  8. Are you talking about these holes in the rocker panel?
  9. You would need to remove the gut pack from the case and check the shaft for wear. If there is any wear on the shaft it will likely never seal for long. If the wear is minimal than you may be able to clean it up with some scotchbrite and reassemble. Those compressors are pretty easy to disassemble and the seal kits to reseal the entire compressor are less than $30 shipped (including the double lip seal) but if there is wear on the shaft it will never seal for long. I'd take it apart and check. I ended up buying a Delco remain for around $200.
  10. Looks good! Can't wait to see the new floor installed.
  11. I know what you mean! I thought I bagged and tagged almost everything, and I may have, but I'm having trouble finding the bags! I finished installing the ac stuff tonight.
  12. Welding the tabs on to the axle tube would be the easiest option. Otherwise, you would have to fabricate a clamp to go around the axle tube. Something like a 3" exhaust clamp with the brackets welded to the clamp might work pretty good and would be removable.
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