monte0

I was figuring I'd have to go with a 3/4" bore but you think a 15/16" would do the job? And my 1" now isn't a deep one but forgot about that good call. Ok I'll check into it thanks. Guess the chevelle's would have the seal the for the firewall?

I have f-body 4 wheel disk conversion on my 70 with a 80 monte master and a stock booster. I know it's not the norm to go manual brakes but my booster isn't doing it job anymore. I don't want a booster for once I go with a lsa blower either so my current master is a 1" bore, if I go with a 3/4" bore should I be able to make it work? And what would i use to mount it without a booster? Just brainstorming

Ok, keep me posted. I'd still love to do this. Only thing is I'm little weary on a check only

First off I need to purchase a new headliner but in white with the sail panels assembled too. Where's a reasonable but good quality place to get this? Also, do they sell the wind lace in white to match? Next is how hard is it to install it myself?

Any update on this since last fall? Never heard back from him myself

Some more progress, all door panels on except the passenger front. Front markers and trim on and carpet/rear seat removed.

...and picked up my motor/ trans combo today. 2014 L96 and a 6L90E with 48k. Just got to make arrangements for shipment, merry Christmas to me

Getting closer to seeing the road again...

I've done this twice now, once on a lift that was pretty easy and once on the ground with jacks. The lift way is way is best, just use the lift pads on the pinch welds, loosen bolts and lift only enough to sneak out all the mounts at once. Watch for the nose moving or flexing as the weight of the nose will flex the front tip of the frame some. Second time was with 2 jacks and 4 stands I did it with 2x10's cut to the right length and jacked on the supports on the floors (front and rear farthest distance I could to spread the load) but didn't have the motor/trans in that time. If the motor is in the floor pans will more then likely flex if you don't watch out. That is why I used 2x10's so I had more surface area touching. This is my experience but ever car is different

Installed upper and lower side moldings over the weekend, now to do the tail and fender ones next. Hand polished each one so takes some time

Took mine out of the garage for the first time in three years and gave her a bath to wash all the dirt off. Plus finally picked a cover up to keep her clean

My new axles came in yesterday, now to install the new disk brakes and get it back rolling again

Nice build! I'm going the LS route myself and planned on going turbo a few years later too.

Bump

Is this a dead project?? Hope not..

I emailed the guy making these but haven't heard anything back

Good to know...I'll see if I can find someone local. If not then new axle

The axles are only about 7-8 years old

Doesn't heating the axle make it more brittle?

Yea, I'm kind of torn on the idea of what to do. A rear end builder I know said I could still use it since the stress will mainly be at the bearing area to the flange. Plus the fact that the area cut is about 3/16" thicker then the rest of the shaft. Idk, really hate to spend more again

Their isn't any seal their. The 9" rears use a sealed bearing and a lock ring behind the bearing area since their is no c-clips.

Well I ran into a isue last night when removing the crash ring from the axles on my 9" rear end. I used the die grinder but I ended up slipping and cutting into one axle. What is rule of thumb when doing this? I attached a pic of how bad it is. I measured the depth and in the worse spot it's 2/32"...I hope it's not bad enough were I've got to change axles but by the looks of it I might be close to the boarder line

What did you want for all four?

I need new window regulators before I finish up the doors looks like. I get a good amount of slop in it and I'm getting this bad harmonic vibration. The olds ones are original and have 198k on them so lets just say they have seen better days So I've been looking at new aftermarkets and low mile old ones, which is the best to go with? Or is there a power window conversion that is inexpensive that I could do?

looks great! beats the old regular bench