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    Robin Skinner
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  1. Seems to be a lot of room even with the big block and if I remember correctly I did it without jacking the engine once or twice. If I did jack it wasn't much. Of course it will matter which oil pan is on it, should be a Chevelle type pan. However I have a corvette oil pan in mine now that doesn't leave much room. And for a real tight fit put a corvette pan in a 2nd generation camaro big block (it will fit). Anyway use the one piece gasket that is available sooo much better than the original cork and rubber 3 pcs pos. Also if you can find one the vette pan can't be beat. rotin
  2. But how do you like that no feel steering box? rotin
  3. The internal stops are wrong is those boxes so you might not like your steering radius. They can be changed but why when the JGC box has the proper stops (well close enough anyway). The TA WS6 box has the best internals as does the IROC box. I have a list somewhere of what T-bars and what stops are in the various boxes. Thing is if you are going to go this far as to custom building a box we would be having this discussion on another level, like how much fun it is to find all of the balls when they accidently hit the floor and how many do I need to find. rotin
  4. I have seen "pro jobs" that were not so good. No problem this is relatively simple but can be tedious. Hard to mess it up unless you cut and glue first or try to hurry to get it done or have the good enoughs going. Start out by snapping all of the bows in and get it centered start in the middle and work to the front and back. Some cars have different bows for different spots so be careful with that (I don't think the MC is one of them). On repop headliners some of the bow pockets may need trimming to set proper now is the time to do that. I have heard of people not using glue and this could work because the metal hanger strips have teeth in the backside. I use glue. Let the glue tack up well on both the headliner and the strips. I start on the sides first and pull the headliner tight around the strip but don't bed it into the glue. Get it so it looks nice and wrinkle free (some small wrinkles can be removed later). When you like it snap the windlace onto the metal strips, this should pull the headliner tighter and bed it into the glue. Do the other side the same then the front and back. Now the real fun begins finding where the sun visors, belt clips, hangers, shoulder straps and dome light go. First and easiest is to find the dome light wire and make a small hole and pull it through. You should be able to feel around for the screw holes inside using a heavy T-pin (from a hobby store) push through the headliner into the screw holes. Put the dome light back together and mount. Do similar exercises with the other things feel around on the headliner for the places things go and poke around with the T-pin to find the screw holes (on a perforated headliner use the perforation holes so you don't add new ones), after awhile you will be able to feel the threads with the pin. Don't be afraid to tackle this just remember to take it slow, also if you screw up the glue can be separated carefully while you go but after a few weeks forget about it. Oh and just in case with some material wrinkles can be worked out with a heat gun (be careful not to melt it) most materials will steam if you have access to a steamer. rotin
  5. It is called the intermediate steering shaft and as far as I can tell no one is repoping or rebuilding them. You can get them for a Chevelle but that is a part that isn't shared. However since you are swapping in the JGC steering box (you will appreciate that over the stock box) why not build a new shaft that doesn't use a rag joint. Or if the end you need to replace is shared with the Chevelle you could try making your old stock style one from a new Chevelle shaft and your old one just be careful burning out the plastic that holds the collapsing joint together. rotin
  6. I would take this opportunity to change it to a Jeep Grand Cherokee box. Better feel and dirt cheap, still could have the leak though. You will need a new rag joint and some metric hoses or adaptors other than that it is a direct fit and looks the same. Lots of information on A-body sites to do the swap. Very easy and worth doing compared to the no feel variable ratio box that is stock. rotin
  7. Not sure what parts you are looking at as my catalog build didn't have floor pans on page 282 but what I found will work. When it comes to using repop patch panels what you get depends on what you want. For instance I like to maintain factory seams so the one piece panels usually omit the seam and just have some sort of feature where the seam would be, I ovoid them. However for someone that just wants the floor fixed they are a great way as they save time and money with less welding required. Some pictures of the damage that needs to be replaced would be helpful. No need for urination be thankful that First Gen Monties are an A body dressed for the country club. The market for 70 Chevelle parts is much larger that the market for 1st gen MC parts so with all of the shared parts it gives us more choices in repops in both quality and availability. Don't believe me just try to find quality parts for a pre 73 2nd gen Camaro, or god help me a Vega/Monza. rotin
  8. Got mine at NPD because it is only a short drive from my house. I doubt if it matters much who you buy them from as there are only a handful of companies that stamp the things for all cars. There was a bit of a mismatch in the drivers side foot well. Since I didn't go all the way up into the firewall I needed to do some hammer work. I basically did the whole drivers pan from just forward of the seam to the seat plate and to the top of the tunnel. The car had a manual trans in it at one time with a big ugly hole in the floor. Some small by Michigan standards holes that where just patched over and other issues. No problems with the pieces other than that mentioned. I didn't use a 1 piece floor pan and toe board I used individual pieces, a toe board and pan. rotin
  9. Another option for shipping large parts is private haulers. I also have a collection of vintage factory racing snowmobiles that I play with. With that I do occasionally buy things that don't ship well (like complete sleds). If you go to the www.vintagesleds.com website you can usually find someone making a trip to your part of the world (especially with winter plans being made) that you can have deliver your stuff. Remember they aren't the big classic car haul guys just hobbyists (not professional insured commercial haulers) usually travelling to pick up stuff they have bought or sold and are trying to recoup some of their expenses . Some won't have big fancy rigs, might be an open trailer, some have really nice rigs and make frequent trips. Keep in mind that these guys usually only travel through the snowbelt. Last thing I had shipped this way was a Fox Thunderbolt minibike that I bought in Wisconsin cost was less than driving myself and it was delivered to my door. Guy I bought it from had reservations about my shipping arraignments but this guy was actually delivering stuff to my neighbor and all of it arrived just fine. Typical traveler that post on the classified board there. Also Fastenal has store to store shipping available. As always buyer beware but I haven't had a bad experience yet. rotin
  10. Oh and be careful with a build that is from 30 years ago there might not be any engine braking when you let off the gas. Is it a reverse pattern valve body? If that is the case you should only down shift while not moving or parts may come out of the case. Newer reverse patterns have the option of retained engine braking so you could change that out. rotin
  11. The poor mans lenco. Is it a B&M or a Fairbanks? Most had a cooler delete going so you might want to consider changing the circuit back and running the fluid to a radiator cooler to keep the fluid at operating temperature. You can launch at any rpm the tires can take, chances are the trans input shaft won't take as much as the tires, the clutches were usually solid hub so no cushion there. If the trans is set up with any shift harder than a Fleetwood Cadillac you will feel everyone of them since there is no cushioning by the converter, rude actually when just cruising. Kind of need to shift like a clutch less manual (which in some ways it is) with rev matching up and down. Hopefully it also has a lower first gear or the 3:42 might not be enough gear. But it does sound fun. Not sure if Jake's performance still does these or not but he might be a source of input shafts when yours breaks. rotin
  12. If you are worried about having the proper color codes for the hoses Old Air Products has kits available. If not any quality vacuum hose of the proper size will work rotin
  13. Black for the top for sure. Not certain of the bottom piece but I would vote black also. The correct shade and gloss is up for debate and probably varies with the plant, time of year and the supplier. Also not generally put on with great care at the factory/supplier. Mine are gloss mixing black. rotin
  14. Even the NOS stuff might not fit that great. As the above post indicates cars weren't built to the same standards as today. I worked as a mechanic in an OLDS/Cadillac dealer in the 70s that had a body shop, between boxing, shipping and general disregard for quality most parts needed work to fit well. Sometimes I wondered if the line reject panels were sent to the service depot. When I restored my 70 SS MC I was still able to buy all GM parts from rear filler to the front fenders except the passenger door. The part that required the least work to fit to the car was the junk yard door I used, just a trip to the dip shop and a couple of rust pin holes to fill. Forty years latter and the car still looks good but is getting some freshening up while I change it from a straight line beast to a more touring type car. Just an FYI I currently contract work to an international known test lab and the local location pre fits aftermarket repair panels to newer vehicles so when /if we start restoring cars from the 2000s or so the parts might be better. rotin
  15. If you buy direct from Legendary there will be a wait period as they don't stock the stuff they make. So if you order seat covers and door panels direct your order is put in their system and built to their schedule. If you are in a hurray buy them from a stocking dealer you will get them much faster as long as the dealer has stock. However when I ordered the interior stuff for my 70 Camaro (a few years ago) the wait wasn't excessive. I didn't go to my local stocking dealer because they didn't have the install kit (highly recommended to have the install kit) so I would have been waiting for that anyway. So far Legendary has the best stuff in my opinion. rotin
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