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jja

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About jja

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    Junior Member

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Legal Name
    jja
  • Occupation
    Attorney

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  1. Hey Mark, I think I understand the way the circuit works but am trying to learn to troubleshoot the problem step by step. As I think I understand what you are saying, I was going to test the voltage (12-13 v) on the wire for the Temp sensor by setting my multimeter to 15 DC V and attaching to that wire one of the meter's clips and affix the other clip end to some ground. With the ignition turned to the on position, the temp gauge needle should move ? (in what direction?). If I do that same step but without the key in ignition, what should the meter read? Should I test the resistance of th
  2. Just had my 70 MC engine rebuilt (350 5.7). Car came from factory with the gauge package. Before I took it to the rebuild shop the temperature gauge and the fuel level gauge which sits right below the temp gauge on the dash worked fine. Temp gauge would always read zero until needle slowly moved to the right as engine heated up. Can't remember how my fuel gauge read but I think it either went to far left when car was off and moved to the correct reading when car started or always remained at correct gas level reading whether care was on or off. Got the car back from the shop and noticed t
  3. Perfect. Thank you everyone. So the lifting eyes (?) were to help take the engine out of the bay? I guess I should repaint and reinstall if I'm trying to stay original stock even though I won't likely ever lift the engine out again.
  4. Just had engine rebuilt on my 70 MC and painted the original chevy red. Ended up with a few pieces to reattach to engine to restore to original look. Am hoping some of you folks could help me figure out what piece goes where. Also, some of the looms seem as if they have a black rubber/plastic sheath that attaches to end to protect spark plug wires from damage. Any idea where to get new black plastic/rubber sheaths? I numbered the pieces for reference and know they may all apply to the spark plugs (or other things) but i'm not sure where exactly to attach them. I also assume some of
  5. Hey Canuck, Coated with what ? I've read somewhere of a spray paint that restores the color but i've also heard of powder coating.
  6. Hi folks, Am having my numbers matching engine rebuilt. Wanted to replace my stock exhaust manifolds with correct looking new ones. Anyone have an idea where to find best matching replacements (not interested in headers) that are correct fitment and have heater stove? Joe
  7. Thanks folks. I think plastic is what i'm going to install to keep the stock look. Appreciate all the advice.
  8. I know that the 1970 fenders are a little bit different than the 71 and 72, but are the plastic inner fender wells also different? I'm having my engine rebuilt and going to replace a few things while engine is out. Appreciate any guidance the community has. Trying to keep the car as stock as possible.
  9. Does anyone know if this trim option was available on a 1970? I like adding options to my 1970 but only if it could have been ordered at the time of building of my car.
  10. thank you doug, your picture helps a lot. Not sure which dash bulb I am supposed to swap out to accommodate this bulb but I gather it should not matter as long as it reaches ash tray.
  11. I have a 1970 MC and i've tried to add options to it that were available at the time. I've purchased a fiber optic ash tray light which consists of a fiber optic cord (?) attached to a regular dash gauge light. I am trying to figure out how to attach it to the ash tray and I am not sure how/where it attaches. I think it should be attached at the roof of the tray with the tip inserted into a precut hole. Should the hole be round or square? Does this sound right? Anyone have pictures?
  12. I recently removed the clock and had it repaired and have reinstalled it. I have the gauge package in my instrument cluster and removed only what I needed to remove to get the clock out. For example, i removed only the nuts and bulbs that hold the blue plastic sheet of copper wire (not sure what it is properly called) that are around the clock and the speedometer. Carefully (or so I think) pushed the same blue plastic sheet it aside so I could access the clock. Removed and replaced the clock. Had to drop the steering wheel by those two 5/8 bolts under dash. Thought I read somewhere tha
  13. Appreciate any thoughts on what you would recommend for following situation: Have at least 160 k miles on a 1970 SB 350 ci. engine. Had each cylinder compression tested and they all registered between 190 -210 lbs., except no. 7 which tested about 120 lbs. Engine really seems to idle hard and have a small leak that I think is the rear main seal. Would like to take care of things as inexpensively as possible but hate to be dumb cheap. Should I go ahead with full engine rebuild or can I resolve most of the things that bother me with a valve job and replacement of rear main seal an
  14. Thanks folks, I used an angle grinder to remove just enough of the middle of the bracket like CKZ depicts in his pictures. Would have gone with the Electro Tek if I had know of them but my stereo setup works fine. I really like the fact that my radio maintains its original appearance but can play FM and has a 3.5 mm aux in to play music off my iphone.
  15. So the consensus seems to be that the Kenwood 4675C 4 X 6 speakers would fit under the dash with minor modifications. I bought a pair and installed the passenger side speaker using the existing bracket. I am attempting to install the driver's side speaker using the existing bracket but am having some trouble. There does not seem to be as much clearance on that side. I have the gauge package and wonder how the speaker is supposed to fit behind the rear of the AMP. Any suggestions from anyone who has done this already? Was wondering whether to modify the existing bracket by first takin
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