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drdave69

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  • Location
    Fortson, GA
  • Legal Name
    Dave
  • Occupation
    Computer Programmer

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  1. I'm fairly sure I was still in the shop when I was trying to tune in an fm station. I'll pull it out of the shop next time and try again. Didn't think it would hinder the fm reception.
  2. Pulled my factory am/8 track out to replace with a Custom Autosound unit. I assume that the factory windshield antenna is primarily for am only since picking up fm stations seems spotty. What have any of you done for an fm antenna in the car?
  3. Finally got around to working on the kickdown solenoid a couple of weekends ago. Ordered a new solenoid, pan gasket and filter. Dropped the trans pan, cleaned everything up and replaced the pan gasket and filter. Swapped the solenoid and buttoned everything up. Initially put too much fluid back into the trans and ended up siphoning some of it out. Drove the for for about 30 miles and the kickdown now works. WooHoo.
  4. I just checked my switch at the pedal with power and my meter. There is 12v with the key on and switch in the resting position and both leads on the two wires. When the switch is depressed there is 0v. Is this correct. It seems opposite to me.
  5. I checked all of my wiring and here is what I have: At the pedal switch is an Orange wire and a Purple w/black line wire. The relay on the firewall gutter has a Green, a Blue and a Black/Purple wire (the relay appears to be an original since it looks old). The wiring at the trans has an Orange and I think a Black wire (did not jack up the car to verify the dark colored wire is black). Now I just need to figure out where and what is working or not. Some guidance would be appreciated.
  6. I will look at my wiring again and validate what color wires at each location. I have not looked for the relay on the firewall gutter yet. Heck, I didn't even know this setup was called TCS. I'd like to know a little more on how it works. Such as, does the pedal switch send a 12v signal thru one wire when the switch is activated?
  7. The trans kickdown on my 454 with TH400 does not work. I removed the switch at the accelerator pedal and tested it with my meter and there is continuity when sliding the switch. I looked at my wiring diagram and did not find this switch (or the switch in the trans). The accelerator switch has purple w/black and black wires. The switch in the trans is orange and a black wire. Any help with exactly how this is supposed to work would be appreciated.
  8. The auto parts store alternator does have that lower bolt and hole. I just used the bracket as a spacer toward the front and everything seems good now. Thanks for the clear pictures.
  9. I got all of that figured out. It is the small rectangular bracket that is included in the kit that I don't know where it goes. I got the kit from Ground Up (ss396.com) and it is item number AKK-301.
  10. Needed to replace my alternator and belt and noticed that the pulleys did not line up very well. Ordered new bracket kit and not sure exactly how they install. Especially the extra "support" bracket (the smaller rectangular one with two different sized holes in it). Does anyone have a diagram of how these brackets are mounted to the engine (454 in my case)?
  11. I finally tacked this yesterday. I grabbed the new, shorter bracket and drilled a hole in it to make the spacing 2" apart. I did this after thinking about how the mirror mounts. The longer bracket wasn't allowing the mirror to tighten against the angled stop point on the other end. The shorter bracket would allow room to be pulled against the angled stop point. Got it installed and everything is tight. Here is a photo of the 2 brackets (before I drilled the short one) and the bottom of the mirror base.
  12. Thanks again Kevin. It looks like your bracket is the same length as the new bracket I ordered with an extra hole drilled for the 2" spread of the mounting holes. I'll monkey with it again soon.
  13. Thanks for the photo and measurement. It looks like that bracket has a mounting hole added on the right end. It appears that the mounting holes on the door are the same as mine (although I measured 2 inches). Did you by chance measure the overall length of the bracket?
  14. I'll try to get around to photos this week. I'm fairly sure the mirror is a repro standard mirror. Upon thinking of this a little more I believe the new bracket may be what is needed to tighten the mirror down. The existing bracket fills the entire gap of the mirror bottom. That doesn't allow the screw to pull the mirror against the other end stop point. My only concern is the bracket mount holes. The new bracket is 1-5/8" apart but the holes in the door are 2" apart. I'll need to measure to see if I can drill the new bracket to fit the door.
  15. I am very new to the board and Monte Carlos. I noticed that my driver door mirror was a little loose so I removed it. The mirror screw broke while backing it out so I ordered a new bracket kit. The new bracket is not the same length as the bracket on the car. The mounting holes on the door are 2" (3" total length) apart and the current bracket holes have been elongated to fit that. The new bracket mounting holes are 1-5/8" apart (2-5/8 total length). Also, since the current bracket is longer than the new it fits into the mirror base correctly. My main question is if someone can measure their door mounting hole width to see if it matches mine (2")?
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