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donnieb50

(Non-dues paying)
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Everything posted by donnieb50

  1. Rule of thumb from what I was told. Dont go further than 12 ATDC things start getting too close
  2. You'll want to brace the rest of the body to keep it square and to maintain the cars structural integrity. Removing the roof without doing this will cause the car to flex all different kind of ways and make it difficult to put it back together. Leave the body bolted to the frame and run a brace from quarter to quarter and maybe one from A pillar to A pillar. Forming an X from these points would be the best way to do it. The picture I provided was when I backed half my car. Most of the roof was still intact and still bolted to the frame. We were only a 1/4 inch off on the passenger side when the rear clip went on. I massaged and stitched welded it a little at a time to get it right then removed the X brace. Your X brace would have to go to all four corners front to back
  3. The levant is the original grain. It is a good color black. Glossy? Not really its still shiny yet subdued. Here is mine ten years later
  4. From what Ive put tog ether with the vinyl tops. The seams on the aftermarket tops are a bit wider (further apart) than original tops. It might have something to do with lining up with the glass but the difference is mere inchs or less
  5. .030 402 10.5-1. AFR aluminum heads. Wiseco pistons, adj. pushrods. Harland Sharpe Roller rockers, .542 Lunati VooDoo cam, HV oil pump, Clevite 77 bearings, Weiand 360 intake and HV water pump. Not a huge build but great for the street
  6. I looked at your link I think that if you were to buy one I would get the "cheaper" with the fuzzy underlayment. This is the style I used on my car. I got mine from Year One if I remember right. It wasn't that expensive I think I gave $150.00 for it but it was some years ago. You'll like the underlayment as it gives a softer touch to the roof. The Levant vinyl is the proper material.
  7. You have any issues just write and I'll try to help. Its not that bad really if you just take your time go slow and cut carefully. I was in England a few years ago visiting a fellow petrol head. LOL
  8. Thanks everyone for the warm welcome! I hope that I can help with any questions you may have and hope to be a good contributor. I still have the original engine for my car this one pictured is a replacement I put together for her.
  9. I've been looking for clear glass for some years now. Door and windshield I can get its the same with me the back glass is unobtainable. I still have my clear quarter windows installed so I'm thankful for that
  10. Ive owned my 70 big block four speed Monte since 1984. She is an original triple black car and heavily optioned with such items as washer fluid monitor and map light mirror but is an non air car. The PO found the build sheet when he pulled the rear seat and gave it to me when I bought the car. It was built in November 69 in Van Nuys and shipped to a dealer in Perry, Iowa. Its still an Iowa car. I took her off the frame in 2008 and still get a lot of thumbs up when we take her out.
  11. Couple of things come to mind with vinyl tops. When my car came out of paint I installed my vinyl top along with everything else required to go on. The roof was finished and painted but not cleared. Cover your car with sheets or paper to keep the glue overspray off your painted, glass and chromed surfaces. Find the centerline of your roof. and mark it with a piece of tape with a line on it for center. I measured the width of the windshield and divided it in half doing the same for the back glass Lay the top out in the sun to take out some of the fold creases and find the center and mark it with a piece of tape with a line on it for center. with the help of a friend, drape the top over the roof and line up the front two lines for center and the two rear lines for center. Looked it all over to make sure she was on right and the seams straight and evenly spaced on top of the roof. Putting some heavy books down on one half of the top to hold it in place I folded it in half laying it on the books and applied my Vinyl Top Glue. Working from the center out to the edge gluing and smoothing it out gently with a bondo spreader. I cut the excess with a sharp pair of shears. Since I own a 70 with a halo top I cut and glued the top to between the studs for the chrome. Run the top into the window wells gluing down to the studs that hold the clips by cutting a little triangle to clear the stud. You will probably have to pie cut the top a little to get it to lay tightly around the corners of the back glass and windshield. You will have ample material to make these cuts so take it slow and cut carefully working the top and glue from the center out to each corner and down the sail. Then do the same for the other side. Use an exacto knife for close cuts. Leave it for 24 hours for the glue to set up and then add your clips and set your chrome. This will take about 3 to 4 hours to do. My quote for the top to get installed was $500.00 I paid $65.00 for two cans of glue this was ten years ago. On the other hand I seen a guy that installed his vinyl top chrome then did a matte finish to the paint for a pseudo vinyl top look. Looked amazing on a black car dont know about different colors.
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