Whons

On my 70 monte the engine had a high performance camshaft that took to much vacuum. I had to install a rotory vane vacuum pump. Machined a plate to mount the pump to the frame and wired it to the ignition. It worked great. This was the car that the inspector lied about road testing the car. I had so many problems with that car I had to get rid of it. I found a Really nice 71 monte close to home. I bought it and transferred all the best best parts from the 70 before I sold it.

It's probably something simple with the linkage. You're main problem will be getting the car back home if the mechanic says it won't go into gear.

I use Castrol gtx 10w30 and have used different oil filters. I change the oil once a year.

I agree not lifting the engine by the harmonic balancer . Put wood as large as you can under the oil pan. another thing I will add, if you rebuild or put in a new engine, always put in a New harmonic balancer.

I have an Optima Red Top battery. has a 2014 date on it. I know they are expensive, but I would buy another one.

yeah, I don't think so. you are correct

Yes I suppose it will, but I have other things modified to

thanks everyone. Wayne

I know the difference between the 70 - 72 grill emblems. But would one from 72 with the lines bolt on my 71. I happen to have found one for a a very good price

It works very well. But I do have an aluminum prop rod for complete safety.

I'm sure not everyone will agree with what I did. I'm not a numbers matching guy. I have certain things modified. For the hood springs I put a smaller spring in the ID of the hood springs. Works good for me.

You could eliminate the lid and make an insert level with the top.

When you do the rears remove one at a time and replace with the new one. My mistake was taking them all off and the axle shifted on me.

Oh I know it's still a lot of work, but I think I can do it myself. The rear I needed another person.

It ended up being a nice day to take it out. I really had no notice of anything in the rear end. The old bushings were really bad. I think one time the old bushings moved and one of my exhaust pipes was rubbing on one of the old upper control arms. So now I have boxed type control arms with grease fittings in the rear. In the spring I'm going to new springs and control arm bushings on the front. Then my car will have all new suspension. I know the front will be easier. The rear I had to get some help. I'll let you know when I do the front.

Well got the whole rear end buttoned up. Had dry roads today, took it for a drive 🚗

I always fill with gas and stabilizer. When we get a mild day say 40 I'll start mine back it out of the garage and run it for at least 20 to 30 min to bring it up to operating temperature. Keep a trickle charger on the battery.

Thanks James. I did use vernier and micrometers. With the press fit I made them they aren't going to move

I don't think you guys are understanding. I made them a good press fit. They were .016 to large. there is now way in heck that you are going to press a bushing into a bore that is .016 larger than the bore. Trust me I made them a good press fit.

Well the the installation of the new upper rear control arms is not going well. Lucky I have a lathe, the upper metal bushings were .016 to large in diameter. Had to turn them down. Then the rear axle rotated down and pulled the drive shaft out of the transmission. Then I had a friend come over to help. It looks like the upper arms are good but we can't push the axle forward. Looks like the parking brake cables are preventing it. So I'm going to remove them. I need a couple days of rest before I continue. I've pulled engines easier than this job.

Yes all good ideas. I have a lathe and Mill. I always am making special sleeves for installing bushings and bearings.

Thanks before I put the new ones in I'm going to clean out the ID with emery clloth and grease the bushings. I've done a lot of work making press fits and slip fits as a machinist

Thanks everyone for the info. I made a mistake. I have it supported on the frame now. I can see what you mean. I have room to get at those bushings on the differential. I'm going to use a small ball carbide end mill with a die grinder and cut thru one wall to get them out. And I have a big monkey wrench to straighten the bracket.

I have the car on wooden blocks under the tires just as it would be on the road.

Got a little problem. I had already swapped the boxed lower rear control arms from my 70 to my new 71. so I decided to replace the short upper ones as well. Got the driver rear out and when I finally got the front bolt out, I felt the car shift a little. The rear driver side lower bracket on the frame bent. Any advise how I'm going to be able to straighten that when I put the new upper ones in? Also couldn't get the upper bushing on the differential out, drilled all the rubber out and just have the metal sleeve to cut out. Know big deal, but am worried about the lower bracket. Attached a picture.