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    Ed Henning

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  1. Currently looking for the right brackets for my BCC transplant for the AC compressor and alternator. In a perfect world I'd like to use a passenger bracket for the compressor and driver bracket for the alternator to eliminate the hoses running over top of the engine, but many of the brackets I've found only work on a short water pump for that application. (I have a long water pump) Anyone know if there is a good billet style that would work with a long water pump? I've also seen the Vintage Air side mounts that mount only to the head that could work, but I was hoping to use the original Fridgidaire compressor and they are all for the Sorden mini compressors. Does anyone know if the bolt patterns/clearance will still work on the stock compressor? I'm not necessarily opposed to just buying a new compressor since I also need to modernize the system from R12, but that's option two. If I'm stuck with driver side compressor mount, is there somewhere selling the full set of stock brackets? Everything I've seen has been has been piece by piece on Ebay. Thanks!
  2. Thanks for the help y'all. The car currently has the stock 2.73 rear end, planning on running it until things go south and then upgrade to a 12 bolt with a better ratio. Did that setup have a kickdown delete? With either transmission it would be tempting but I've seen some concerns about not getting a change in flow without the kickdown.
  3. I'm knee deep in an engine swap for my MC to a 454 bored .30 over with 10.5:1 compression with oval heads and moderate cam, cooled by a 4 core radiator. I was originally set on finding a TH400 to mate to the back, but I've seen some talk online of folks having good durability with a well built TH350. Is this feasible, or will it be better in the long run to find another transmission? The TH350 that was in the car already needs gone through and along with the SBC taken out of the car is numbers matching, so it would be nice to use. It would also save the trouble of having the driveshaft shortened, dealing with electric kickdown, etc. However I don't really want to deal with frequent transmission problems if it's likely to be an issue. I'm sure I'll be enjoying the HP and not babying it, but it will be a cruiser and for occasional car shows, unlikely that it'll ever see a strip. Thanks for the help!
  4. Thanks for the info!! Car is primarily going to be a cruiser and heading to local car shows, but the 454 I found is bored .030 over, has 10:5:1 compression, etc so I'm airing on the side of parts that'll handle the horsepower and torque. I was initially thinking solid mounts to avoid replacing again but was concerned about vibration so had settled on rubber OEM style, but with that suggestion I think I might pull out the wallet for the Chris Alstons. As fun as the process of pulling the engine out was I don't care to do it again anytime soon, and in the grand scheme of the build an extra $200 is probably worth not rattling apart the whole car or having to replace broken motor mounts. This looks to be the correct set? http://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1471-chevelle-68-72-gm-a-body-billet-motor-mount-and-frame-adapter-set-v8-engines.aspx Thanks again! IMG_0027.HEICIMG_0034.HEIC
  5. After pulling my 350 to be replaced by a 454 I started digging into motor mount needs. The general consensus I've found in the search function here as well as online is that the motor mounts for BBC are not the same as SBC, but the towers are. However I've been scouring the internet for big block specific mounts and the best I've found is a "67 big block motor mount kit" on SS396, while EVERYWHERE else (including SS396's OEM mounts sold separate of that kit" say "for SBC and BBC." Where do I need to be looking for big block specific mounts? I wouldn't be too concerned except that I'm installing headers and don't want fitment issues due to using undersized mounts. Thanks!
  6. Thanks ya'll, I picked one up from SS396 along with a few other knick knacks I needed to pick up free shipping. Do have to say $100 for a mirror makes you pucker a bit, but what's new with repro parts I guess... I'll post some pics with fitment once I get the holes in!
  7. Does anyone know if remote passenger mirrors/interior bezels with the right orientation can be found anywhere? My car has the driver side remote mirror (non sport) and I’d like to add the holes in the passenger door before the car goes to paint, if I can find one to match. Also, if I fail to find one would it look odd to the Monte experts out there to have a non-remote chrome mirror on one side and a remote mirror on the other? 😬 TIA!
  8. Thanks Ed, $100 for a grille hurts but it looks like that’s the ticket! My car was a Dec 1970 build so makes sense with that context.
  9. Thanks Ed, doesn't fit the style of the other one but I appreciate it. Odd that the repo sites often have the square ones like mine (but make them without the studs) as "70" speaker grilles when my car is a 71, and your 70 obviously had a different grille style...
  10. Thanks for the tips guys. Doug, I'm hoping I can knock most of it out by doing everything I want now but I have a feeling I'll be digging back in sooner than later once I'm down with this round 😆 After some more research I was able to find a kit and instructions for conversion to SS style dash from dummy lights without buying the whole cluster. Outside of the circuit and gauges the only other change required is the temp send unit which is included in the kit. Links below. https://www.hitechclassics.com/collections/ebay-motors-parts-accessories-vintage-car-truck-parts-interior-other/products/1971-71-72-chevelle-ss-el-camino-monte-tach-gauges-tachometer-temp-fuel-amp Idiot light to gauge conversion.pdf Still searching for answers on the interior colors if anyone has any insights!
  11. Hey all, I’m finally getting deep into my “snowball to end all snowballs” resto and have almost all of the interior down to metal. I’m starting to get a list together of things I need to get ordered and a plan together on how to do it and was hoping I could get some knowledge from y’all! Back armrest panels and sails Do the panels with the rear armrests generally need replaced/rebuilt? They’re in relatively good shape from what I can tell except for the cardboard being a little flimsy and the outward facing stuff still looks good, just didn’t know if that’s something that should be changed while I have everything out. The space behind the armrests was sealed by heavy paper with adhesive. I saved the paper just in case, but is there a better replacement option? Also, Are those adhesive strips sold pre-made or do I just need to put a bead down and stick it on? Last for this section: The insulation in my sails is shot. Are you guys using dynamat to replace that or is there an OEM repro kit? Interior colors My lack of intuition on colors is coming out on this one haha. According to the GM color code sheet I found Cottonwood Green (my exterior color) was only available with Jade green, black and sandalwood interior options. My dash and seats are definitely Jade green, but to my eyes the package tray seem more like the “dark green” option. I don’t have a frame of reference for what the dark green interiors look like or what the true color of the repro package trays is like; can anyone confirm what color would be correct to match this? As far as interior paint, I found rattle cans in matte and semi gloss that match the factory numbers, but are labeled “Cadillac” and I know there could be some variance between years and GM make. What sources do you guys recommend for interior paint? Roof insulation Taking the headliner hardware off to redo all of this seems overkill. I was thinking of either cutting the pieces at the visible areas and applying Dynamat in the easy areas and leaving the rest, or cleaning off the loose insulation and applying the mat right onto the existing. What would you recommend? Instrument cluster Last section- I would like to upgrade my cluster to having gauges instead of dummy lights and an in-dash tach. I’ve seen full SS dashes available, but this is a 350 column shift and as cool as it would be I don’t see a floor shift conversion happening anytime soon, which would mean I need to get the gauges separately and install in my existing cluster. What would be the best way to go about this? I’ve seen people replacing the clock with a tach and leaving the large fuel gauge which I would be fine with, but would the existing circuit run the amp and temp gauges correctly? If I fit it as an SS dash would be (large tach and clock, small fuel gauge amp and temp) would I need to get an SS dash circuit, and if so will it fit correctly in my column shift car? Thank you all for any answers you might have, the search function and great YouTube videos from Jared Richey have already saved me a whole lot of time and cussing!
  12. ISO one speaker grille. My car had one speaker from the factory and I’m replacing the package tray and installing double speakers. Looking for the correct stud style square grille.
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