Lawrence71

This is certainly what it /seems/ like, behavior-wise. I guess I'll visually inspect and see what I can tell on this wire. (If it's not to hard, might just proactively replace, if I can figure out what it's called.) I tested the battery using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Performance-Tool-W2998-Portable-Analyzer/dp/B073VCB6P2 On the car itself, with the positive wire on the post and the negative on ground, it said the battery was bad and to replace, though it still picked up 12.79 V. I pulled the battery and bench-tested, and it said the battery was good, same voltage. I'd assume this means there might be some sort of load that it was picking up, could it be a short or something? It could also be a crap tool, was an O'Reilly in-store special. Tested the battery, which said good off the car, but it came with it and has seen better days so open to just replacing proactively; this is 650/800CA top-post, so not even sure it's the original one that came with. Don't mind throwing a little money at the problem to see if it goes away... 🙂 that and the battery cables.

Hey, so I've been scratching my head over this one and could use some ideas for things to check. My '71 has occasional starting issues after running for a while. The general pattern is car starts ok, go somewhere for a while (30-60 minutes), then come back and nothing: no click, no turning over at all. Leave it overnight and the next day everything is fine, starts without issue. Battery and alternator are tested and verified good. I replaced the starter already and that didn't help. The common thread I'm seeing is that it's on pretty hot days, so not sure if something is expanding and losing contact with a ground or anything. There is a voltage drop when trying to start according to the gauge, so ignition switch seems to be working. I've tried switching into neutral in case it's NSS but in this case it still won't start. Any ideas on what to look for at this point? I'm considering replacing the battery cables just on principle. Thanks, David

So this has happened a couple of times, enough that I can't discount as a fluke. Occasionally (rarely, though seems like it's been happening a little more frequently, probably 5-6 times total) I will drive somewhere in my 71, leave for 20-30 minutes on an errand, then come back and it won't start immediately. This has ranged from complete nothing to a slight click (feels like a *little* more than just the solenoid, like it's just moving a tooth or two on the flywheel, but just doesn't have the strength to move it).. At this point, I've been able to start again in a minute or so after various random shifting in/out of neutral and just trying again later, however there's not a consistent pattern here. Battery/alternator both good/new, and when it starts up it starts without issue afterwards. I assume at this point it's likely NSS or starter going out, but what would be useful in diagnosing? This is inconsistent and has only happened when I've been out, so I've not had tools available for at-the-time diagnosis. Ideas? As always, thanks for your expertise and opinions.

So I'm now working on replacing the Door Seals, using a kit roughly like this (including picture for clarity, since I'm not certain of the name): A couple of questions: 1) Do I need any sort of adhesive to attach these? The pieces I have have the little clips staggered throughout that match up with the holes, so don't necessarily think so. The old part had what looks to be a little adhesive on the side with the strike plate, but on the whole it appears to not use that; do I need any at all? 2) The kit I got came with the wrong size end fasteners; they are too big for the holes. I've tried searching for replacement fasteners but have not have good luck with guessing the naming to find the exact match. I did buy some stainless steel pan screws since one side the previous owner had attached using those, but would those work as expected, or should I hold out for the real deal, and in that case what is that called? 3) While I've got the inner door panel off, is there anything else I should do here with the windows, like take the time to grease the mechanism? I have new window felts on order, so I will probably wait to finish the install until those are here, just looking for easy things to do that will improve things without a ton of additional future work. Thanks, David

Yup, used a plastic trim tool to remove most of it. Going to hit it with some goo gone and brush out the channel. (Maybe start with nylon so no more scratches than necessary but going to avoid anything not in the channel, will just see what is effective there.) Got the above mentioned kit which includes a couple things to pretreat, but the POR15 looks like it goes on the bare metal afterward.

Hi Mike. That does sounds sensible; looks like something like this would do the job: https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/por-15-stop-rust-kit-gloss-black-40909/11839912-p Thanks for the tips

Here are some pictures of the rust area and the bare metal (as examples). This is before vacuuming any crap up, so probably looks worse than reality.

So I have a trunk leak that I isolated to ancient weatherstripping. Got the parts, pulled it out, and there is some varied rust/bare metal in the channel. Not bad to the point of being rusted through, just seems to be a little surface rust but not sure what next best steps are. Can I just use a brush to scrape out any loose bits? Should it be painted before I get the adhesive in there, etc? Wasn’t planning on any sort of major paint work on the car at this point so was hoping to just be able to slap some black touch up paint in the channel, let it dry, then get the new strip in. Does that make sense? David

I ended up doing a little more research and doing the loc-tite. Attached fine but looks like I need springs with more give.

I also have blue Loc-Tite.

Is copper-based antiseize good here? I have some left over from new plugs.

So I'm adding in the Throttle Return Spring Bracket, and based on a few images of what I've seen of others' setups it looks like I'm installing this part: on this bolt: So my questions for those who have done it: 1) Is this the right location for this? I assume it goes with the crescent side facing the front so you have several options of "distance", but is that backwards? 2) What are those bolts called? Are they intake manifold bolts? I'm wanting to make sure I don't break them getting them off, and making sure the torque is appropriate when putting them back on, so some knowledge here would help in research. (I also have exhaust header gaskets to replace, which I believe are notorious for breaking, just would prefer to break as close to 0 bolts in the engine as possible... 😄) Any pblaster or anything required for getting that one out, or should be good to just go carefully? Was going to tap gently with a rubber mallet on a rachet, but this will be the first engine bolt I've attacked, so happy for pointers/advice. Thanks! David

Just following up; thanks for all the help, things are working great. Also adjusted carb idle mixtures, idle speed, etc, so that's a new thing learned as well. Final initial advance ended up around 18; seemed a little higher than expected, but based on the engine sound and everything, that was the right value for me. David

So you turn back to 0 degrees while it’s at still at 3000? Just hold the throttle somehow?

tested with the vacuum advance off but just used a rag to block, no plug. (Bought some, can’t find ‘em. 😂) Haven’t replaced fuel filter yet. I *think* there might be two, one closer to the fuel tank and one is in the carb fuel line with a return. I have a replacement for that one but just visually bought one that looked similar so there may be specs I’m not aware of. So the timing tab only goes to 10ish; how do you measure beyond that? I think my timing gun may have a tare option, just tare and sum them if trying to get to 14?