MI_Custumz

Then non vented one had a rubber disc type gasket. I pulled that out and put in the round paper-ish one that was in the vented one I had laying around. Seems to not leak with that one. I also drained out a bit of coolant so it won't splash up as far. Not sure if it's the gasket swap, lower coolant level, or a combination. I did not drive it with the new gasket, but did rotate it up to try to get coolant to leak out.

Thanks. I thought it had one, I will double check.

I have the Nova bottle mounted. One thing I am not a fan of is just one mounting hole. It looks good sitting, but I took it for a spin yesterday and was getting on it a bit. I may have too much coolant in the bottle, because it leaked out the cap just a bit. Not much, just a few drops. I noticed the coolant on the fender well underneath it. So I took the bottle and rotated it and sure enough, coolant leaking a bit from the cap. Yes it has the non vented cap and it was tight. I am thinking just sucking out some coolant will fix that problem. However, not a fan of it pivoting that easy. Is there a way to lock it in place? I am thinking of tightening the heck out of the nut to pinch it to the fender tighter, but don't want to crack the plastic. I have a body mount bolt, washer, then the fender, washer, bottle tab, washer, and nut. Not sure if wrenching it tighter would do any good or adding something else to the set up.

I have a side post in mine, but put the top post adapters on it. The battery shut off seems to work better with the larger posts, plus the larger posts are easier to test/jump the battery.

I loosened both hood hinge bolts and pushed/pulled the rear of the hood to where it belongs and tightened the bolts. The bolts need to be loose enough to move the hood, but tight enough to not let the hood push them around on their own. It's a tricky spot to find as far as tightness goes. Then I slowly raised the hood just enough to get the bolts tighter and final tightening when hood was up far enough. I tried the moving the hinge, tightening, shutting hood, adjusting, etc. and found the method I tried easier. Maybe remove the grille to verify the front bumpers and hood latch are where they need to be also.

How hard is it to replace the bulbs without removing any dash parts? How many bulbs are there and the locations? Do you need any special resistors, flashers, etc when replacing just dash or interior bulbs? I was considering replacing the dome light, aftermarket gauge cluster, dash, back up lights, console rear light, and maybe a few others with LED and ordering them all at once to save on shipping. I know when I went to LED in the house it said to use all the same (LED, CFL, incandescent) in the same fixture and wasn't sure how that applied to the cars wiring.

I currently run Valvoline conventional 10w30, but come spring I want to use one with more zinc in it. I was looking at Valvoline ZR-1 10w30, but noticed this: "(Dino) Valvoline VR1 Grades: 20W50, 10W30 Claim: "High zinc/phosphorus provides extreme wear protection, including flat tappet applications." Verification: 1300 - 1400 PPM ZDDP http://www.valvoline.com/pdf/VR-1_Racing_Motor_Oil.pdf NOTE that there are some concerns with VR1 due to inconsistenttest results. Additionally, racing oils are not intended for extended (3,000+mile) change intervals nor start-and-stop cycles." I change the oil in spring when it comes home from the storage unit and in the fall before storage. No way does it get to 3,000 miles in the summer. If I do drive it quite a bit, I may throw in a mid summer oil change. I see someone is using AMSOIL Z-ROD, but that's synthetic. Not sure I want to go from conventional to synthetic. Also, what are considered "start-and-stop cycles"?

I see it listed as an A body on some sites, A Special on others, and G body. What was it for the 1970?

I thought they were smooth, but the dimensions of the hole were what was listed for the ribbed. It now has ribbed in it. Not correct, but clean and no gunk stuck inside them.

What style originally came on the 70 Monte? I see in the OPGI magazine on page 38 they have two styles listed. One is Zinc for a 2 7/8" X 1 3/4" hole and one is Chrome for a 3 1/8" X 2" hole. The Chrome one has ribbed lid and the Zinc is smooth. The ones I pulled out were smooth lid. I'm not into 100% factory correct, but was curious.

Going to shoot them with some paint tonight. Thinking a light coat in the open position would be best. Maybe a light coat in the closed position as well. Don't think it will bind the pivot points since they are pretty hard to get paint into. What's your opinion on a method of painting. It's going to be rattle can.

The rear notch on the ones from NPD were not as deep as the ones from Leo. The ones from NPD actually bent under the pressure from the spring. I should have just went to Leo in the first place, live and learn.

What color/sheen are the hinges supposed to be? I have a set from Leo and they are ready to bolt in and are a dull black. The other reproduction ones were shiny. I can paint them if need be, but not sure if they need it or not. More worried about rust than correct sheen.

Can you run the ones from thatnsite on your car? I ordered two of them (1970 and a 1980 version of the Michigan one) and they are close, but not the exact as originals.

The springs on the passenger side look like they will align with hook down on the front one and hook towards the fender on the rear one. Opposite for the drivers side. The angles actually look like it may need to twist a touch to get it into the notches. I think I'll mess with them tomorrow or Thursday.

I'm putting on new hood hinges and springs. I'm hoping the new springs from NPD (C-8013-2 with GM #3848272) are correct. I told them it's for a 70 Chevelle SS with cowl induction since they don't cross to Monte Carlo parts. It's also the same part number that comes up from GM parts direct for the Monte. Which way do the hook ends point on the hinges? I couldn't find anything in the servis manual about this. Does it matter? The first set of hinges buckled and it had 25 coils and larger diameter. The second set were used because I was in a pinch. The diameter and coils are the same at 29 coils. If the hood doesn't stay up, that's fine. I'll just prop it up. My main concern is the hood staying centered between the fenders. The used set has a little play in them and I want to get the new hinges on before it gets worse. I am tackling this myself. I'll prop the hood up and put blocks under the cowl end to keep it elevated while I swap out hinges real quick. Then the other side and finally adjustment. I know it's easier with help, but I work odd hours and getting someone to help at 3 in the morning usually doesn't go well.

Checked mine last night. Turn signals: Front, rear, and dash blink Hazards: Front, rear, and dash blink Side marker lights don't blink, they are on when the running or headlights are on.

I didn't check by walking around. I had it in the garage and turned on the 4 ways. I could see the reflection on the door and wall. Didn't look for the side marker lights. Do they flash? Didn't ever think of that. If a bulb is out, they flash faster. Had a front marker light out and it flashed faster. I think I may have located the flasher. It's yellow and mounted with a screw and bracket somehow. I didn't have time to take it apart this morning, but did locate it.

Thanks for the pics. Looks like it's the same flasher, visually at least. Now I just have to get under there and look deeper. I did a quick look and nothing like that hanging down. May have to trace the wires to find it.

I only saw that one, but didn't look real hard. That one was at the top of the fuse block on the left side I think. I am at work and can't recall what I saw, was a quick peek. Is there more than one on the fuse block? If not, where is the second one?

I have slow turn signals. I am thinkig it's the flasher. I haven't gotten to replacing it yet, too much else going on. Would this flasher work? It says electro-mechanical turn signal flasher. Also, is there a seperate flasher for the hazards on the 70 Monte or is it an all in one? http://www.autozone.com/electrical-and-lighting/hazard-warning-flasher/novita-hazard-warning-flasher/69839_132997_7281/

What's the factory set up for a 1970 Monte? Mine has a shoulder belt with a male end, lap belt with a male end, and only one female end per front bucket seat. Rear has three male and female (1 set per person). Was told it should have some way to make it a 3 point. I thought you could wear a lap or shoulder belt, but not required to wear both. NHTSA says lap or lap and shoulder belt after 1968. That leads me to believe the set up may be correct. Is there a deluxe and standard seat belt set up? 14K70 is a date code I found on one of the belts. Didn't look for all the others.

I had my TH350 rebuilt last year and had a new tube and dipstick installed since the old one leaked bad. It measures 28" to the bottom of the black portion of the cap adn 29 1/4" to where it sits up against the tube. It could be a longer tube, markings on the tube may be in a different spot, or other things since it's not OEM. My dipstick cap is the black kind that locks down when flipped. Do aftermarket set ups come in different lengths? How far up from where it's bolted to the bellhousing does the tube go? Now I'm wondering if the trans level may not be correct if the dipstick is wrong. I have a little OCD and mind wonders sometimes.

Thanks. That's what I was thinking, but not enough coffee this morning to be sure.

Ok, stupid question. How do you know it's under pressure? Does it sound like a soda can or bottle being opened (well, kind of) ? Does the pressure go away overnight if it sits?