Jump to content

Heckeng

(Non-dues paying)
  • Posts

    763
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Reputation

0 Neutral

About Heckeng

  • Birthday 03/13/1975

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Columbia MO
  • Interests
    Cars,Aquariums
  • Legal Name
    Scott Heck
  • Occupation
    Engineer/Real Estate

Profile Fields

  • Scott
  1. Hi everybody it has been a while but I figured I would see what was gooing on on the forum and found my favorite topic! I have done some videos for this purpose on youtube. If you search for Scott Heck or 1971 Monte Carlo you will probably find them. I recorded a couple different sets of flowmaster mufflers, with and without tailpipes, spintech mufflers, and magnaflows. The flowmaster without tailpipes definitely sounds the best but it was LOUD. I have the magnaflow now and like them a lot. Spintech did not impress me at all unfortunately. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R-9QYhaA_VA https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SlWalKMmsMo https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q7ZcS4HTmgY https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HbVU_ZCF0AY
  2. You guys are right, the dogbone lifters won't work because of the maching being lacking. The retainer plate/spring will also not work. I have heard that the older blocks WERE drilled for a retaining plate type of cam retention system which the Gen 6 uses. I actually like that cam quite a bit for street driving. It is easy on parts and it makes decent power for what it is. Also, being smaller in duration it will help keep compression higher than a larger cam. Get some good Morel lifters, a retainer plate, and you will be good to go.
  3. Freakin' awesome Mike. Congrats!
  4. I agree with Sam, keep the converter, swap the gears. I would shoot for some 3.42's or something like that.
  5. That will be a blast to actually drive places Royce. I had 2.73 gears with my 454 for many years and it had plenty of torque to get going, and the highway was actually pleasurable compared to my 3.55 gears currently.
  6. Actually I was just talking with Al. . . I'll be talking with Davey soon too :-)
  7. Hey Mark, you need to think of your carb as a multi-stage fuel mixing unit. 1: At idle, you are running on idle fuel ports and very slightly on idle mixture slots. 2: cruising, and off idle, say starting around 2000rpm ish, you start getting a good signal to the venturi which pulls gas from your main jets AND you are getting a better signal at the idle transfer slots. 3: If you have a double pumper, eventually the linkage will start to engage the secondaries so those jets will kick in. 4: If you nail the gas and get a large enough drop in vacuum, the power valve channel starts adding fuel too. If you tune your carb in steps, starting with the first step I described, the idle and cruise will be set and good to go, then you tune the next step and you are still good at idle and cruise/off idle, then you tune the secondaries and PV and you are good to go theoretically in all rpm ranges. So, if you are fat at idle/cruise, you will need to adjust the idle fuel port, idle transfer slots, and maybe or maybe not the primary jetting. At cruise on lower rpms, you may not be getting much signal through the venturi which would mean that the main jets aren't doing anything anyway so if you adjust them, it won't matter much. The idle fuel port would be the main one to adjust. This can be adjusted by either adding a restrictor (small jet) or adjusting an existing restrictor if your carb already has them. On top of all of this are the air bleeds which add confusion to things and unless you are doing major changes, I'd not mess with them much if any. I have had great luck starting at step one and adjusting idle and cruise using the idle feed restrictor which can actually restrict both the idle fuel port and the idle transfer slot. This might be a good topic to actually have a phone conversation if you want some time :-)
  8. Ok, I am considering upgrading my rear end but am not sure if I really want to or not. There are three reasons I would upgrade: 1. To get a housing with ford style housing ends 2. To replace my existing 1310 yoke with a 1350 unit (unnecessary but I would upgrade if I changed) 3. Simply to get one that was all clean and degreased The housing ends are the real issue for me. I am at the level that I really think I ought to get rid of the c-clips but I don't want to get c-clip eliminators as the car is 99% street driven and I would feel better with new ends either welded on my rear or a new housing. The issue I would have holding me back is that I already have a decent amount of money tied up with it. It has Moser axles, an Eaton posi, Richmond 3.55 gears (that don't make any noise) and a nice aluminum cover What would a 12 bolt chevy rear go for with these features? I may try selling mine and swapping in a new one: I can do a Moser 12 bolt with trutrac diff, axles, and cover for around $3000 which seems pretty expensive, I can get a Moser 9" for our car for $1500 plus the center section. I can get a used center, put a trutrac in it and get some gears for around $750 I think.
  9. Sticks will be hard to get to last, if it were me I would look at a T56 Magnum--700lbft capable if I remember right. a properly made th400 or th350 can handle it, I know you wouldn't believe me though. 400 for sure.
  10. Are the Velle members the same as the monte ones, but bolting on instead of slip fit?
  11. I am not familiar with that model, but I have had great results with the demon carb I have. I have also seen a friend mess around with his so much that he almost threw it in the woods--literally. I am not sure what the deal was with his--it is likely his own doing I think. I say get a square bore intake and a good old holley 600 vacuum secondary carb.
  12. congrats on your latest failure! That is a pretty cool one I think I have seen several fail like that. Before I read your last sentence, I figured you were using a solid tranny mount which will break a tranny pretty quickly. Very impressive you are breaking them with your setup--lots of powa! Those JW bell housings are awesome, you will like that! AND, isn't it nice when life smiles on you and lets you find the problem BEFORE you have to pick up pieces of the problem that were exploded all over the drag strip!
  13. With those gears, and on the street you won't be able to tell any difference from a cam change. It doesn't matter if you had a six cylinder in there, your mileage will likely suck with a final drive ratio of 3.5X. I have 3.55s and they are too deep for any real highway useage. You also won't tell any difference in torque from a cam change because your rear gears can probably break the tires loose at will anyway.
  14. Wow, Mike, that is awesome. I can hear those tires screaming all the way in Missouri!
  15. What about just changing rear gears to 3.73 or 4.11 even? 4.56 are DEEP!
×
×
  • Create New...