chevygod

Hi Scott, I am going to look at pushrod length. However, the pics of the arms are exactly what I was looking for. Those give a good indication of the differences. Thank YOU! And the plating is probably bright zinc, but still incorrect, hah! Best regards, Tom

All, sorry for the late reply, lot of catching up on other projects and this was set aside. Thomas, I also thought that they were interchangeable, and had run SB pumps on 402's and 454's with them usually working until this instance, which promoted the research. I then found many folks pointing to the SBC pumps having a different lever arm that the BBC pumps. Looking deeply at what the application listings show, there is some sort of major difference. Scott, this is a Mark 4 454 from a 70's truck (I was told). So it's a normal BBC. I have a original 402 70 Monte, with what was probably a BBC lever pump. Not driven, needed a pump when the one on it started to leak badly, so i threw on a spare 305 pump, with out comparing the arms. It starts and runs short distances fine. Has not seen major open road driving. The 454 I'm currently dealing with is in my 70 Concours Wagon, it had a pump on it when i bought the car, dunno the exact type, but it failed, so I bought a "correct" 3 port big can 72 and up 454 pump at O'Reilly's. Did not compare the arm. Ran somewhat good, but sometimes had a dead spot above 45mph. Didn't pressure check anything, took it off and took it back and was given another. Same thing. I needed a 3 port pump, so borrowed the pump off my 72 Monte, 350 engine, 3 port. Put it on and it ran great for weeks. So bought a new one (72 SBC 3 port at O'Reilly's) and installed it. This pump has run well until recently, which is what started this investigation. The motor now has started to sign off at about 35mph. I have also swapped good running carbs around trying to narrow this down, one raised the point of stumble but it's still there. What I've found online is that an SBC pump on Big Block will sometimes work but usually results in low or no pressure, BBC on Small Block may work but many ended up with a bent or broken lever arm. Also, some pointed out that older AC Delco pumps had a W on the arm if it was a BBC pump. Neglecting all of the differences in shape and port size and quantity, many pointed to the arms being differently sized, so that is why I am trying to find a good comparison of the lever arms. I wonder now if the supposed BBC pumps I got earlier had incorrect arms, and maybe the reason some of the small block pumps I've had would work is because the arm is in between small block and big block sizing. I am also going to be trying to measure the fuel pump lobe offset and therefore the push rod travel, just to make sure I am not losing the lobe on the cam. Thank you all, Tom

Hi All, Looked high and low, cannot find an accurate image that show the difference in size, length, or shape of the lever arms on small block and big block fuel pumps. I'm chasing fuel supply issues on a 454 and will be buying a new pump, but want to know what I currently have, and what I have bought in the past and see if it was right or wrong. Thank you for any input, Tom

Hello Dan, Unfortunately at this time I don't have the capacity to deal with shipping large items. Thank you for your understanding. Also, Moderators, the right and left 71-72 Monte fenders at end of the list have sold if you want to mark them as sold or remove them. Thank you, Tom

All, I'm one of those lucky people dealing with my homeowner’s insurance in So Cal. They are looking for any reason to cancel your insurance policy. Spare parts are a no-no. So I'm cleaning out a lot of 70-72 MC front end sheet metal parts. Nothing is NOS or super perfect, but maybe better than what you have now. All items are located in Corona in Riverside County, California. I'm sorry, local pickup only, if you can work something out with someone out here in SoCal I will work with them. If someone wants everything, I’ll make sucha-deal – prices are a starting point, ask me, I probably won’t say “no”. Would rather these go to be used instead of to the scrap guy. But if no action these will go away. I’m including a link to my local CL ad, mods if this is not cool, please delete. https://inlandempire.craigslist.org/pts/d/corona-chevy-monte-carlo-front-sheet/7635265411.html Thank you all, please PM if interested, Tom I have the following: 1970 Chevy Monte Carlo right front fenders 1 right - rust in rocker area, folding damage to inner support area and fender top - $20 1 right - rust in rocker area, some damage visible on inner are but was bondo'd on outside - $40 has cut-out for added cornering light, also was factory punched for Light Watch unit in front top of fender. 1970 Chevy Monte Carlo front fender extensions - 3 right and 3 left - each includes the chrome headlight trim. $20 per pair with chrome, $40 for all w/chrome 1970 Chevy Monte Carlo bare core support – has rust damage at lower portion where radiator sits, I am including a portion of another core support to weld in for repair, otherwise in very good condition - $40 1970 70 1971 71 1972 72 Chevy Monte Carlo driver side door, originally from a 1970 Monte Carlo, complete with glass and window mechanism, in good condition - $40 1971 1972 Chevy Monte Carlo front fenders - 1 right and 1 left – SOLD 1 right - some rust in lower rocker, some wrinkles in the forward side - $60 - SOLD 1 left - little rust, has damage at the front portion due to bumper being pushed into area- $60 - SOLD

Hi all, Need a new fuel pump in my 71 Monte, car has the return line fuel filter (FRam G19) which is a pain, getting hard to find and lots of connections to fiddle with. My 72 Monte also has a return line, but it comes out of the pump, so straight shot to the carb with no inline can filter, just one in the carb. Both of these cars are the way the factory built them. I know the return line helps keep fuel cycling and cool, so I would like to keep it in working condition (bypassing is not and option), but would there be much difference in fuel temp at the carb if I move the return from the upper line mid way between the pump and the carb (where the canister filter is) down to the pump itself? The 72 runs fine, and the 71 needs a new pump, so now would be the time to change over if I did. Any thoughts? Tom

While trying to put 2 whole cars into a 3 car garage (imagine!), I have been going thru the endless piles of stuff I have collected over the years. One item I have been hoarding is a hurt (broken ring damage) 350 block originally from my 71 Monte. Motor was rebuilt at 118K miles, and was damaged in the bore about 70K miles later. I had thought the number stamp was intact, but it was machined away when rebuilt. I know the whole numbered correct car/NOM thing (I own a NOM 71 Vette), and know that with the stamping gone, this can't be proved to be the original motor, except in my own mind. The motor is the correct casting, and it could be sleeved and repaired. Question is, should I worry about keeping it, stash it in the junkyard out back, or ship it? After hanging on to it for so long (20-something years), it seems stupid to get rid of it. Same time, it seems stupid to waste space on something that (I now discover) may have no value to the cars originality... Thoughts? Tom

After dealing with the mess of clean up from butyl tape during a headliner replacement, I am wondering if there is something out there more akin to the factory adhesive "rubber/foam" used in original installs? The original stuff seals, does not remain tacky, and cleans up easily. GM was using it as late as 1984, my 84 Monte has it on the front window. I have also tried urethane, was not happy with it, as I have had issues with continued adhesion on an ElCo back window as well as incorrect seating depth on a MOnte windshield install. Some shops in Riverside County, California, won't install any older car windows with urethane that were butyl installed as they say urethane is not the correct material, and they no longer use butyl. Any thoughts? Best, Tom

Probably already been gone over long ago, but has anyone looked to see how a 68-72 Grand Prix is sealed? The back edge looks very vertical, but with the radius at the lower corner it may be sealed the same as a Chevelle?

OK, findings of today. Changed out the modulator for a known good one, no difference in shifting, no second gear, just 1st to 3rd. Checked old modulator and it looks and operates off the car fine. I have the Ron Sessions TH350 Handbook, and the troubleshooting list has nothing on a missed 2nd gear, or constant 1 to 3 upshift. Any input from anyone is appreciated. Best, Tom

Thank you for the replies. I did not have time to check the modulator today, I must get to that tomorrow. The trans starts out fine in first, and will hold it to redline even with light throttle if I don't let up on the pedal before shifting straight to third. When I manually upshift the trans it does the same thing, 1st straight to 3rd, with nothing while I shift into 2nd. Downshift from third into second and the trans will free wheel until I bring the revs up enough to engage everything and push the car. Pop it into first and it will lock the wheels (I know, that's bad) and go to first. Except for this, the dang thing runs fine. As I said, I will mess with the modulator tomorrow, and report back. But I think it's time for a new trans. But that is a subject for a new topic. Thanks again, Tom

Hi Gang, Need TH350 help. I have 350C (lockup converter) in my 84 Monte Carlo, trans has 180k miles and is untouched. Trans will not grab second, either upshifting or downshifting automatically or manually. Was fine until shortly after having it smogged on a roller dyno. Fluid is at proper level and smells fine, TV is adjusted correctly, and modulator lines look good (no leaks)and modulator doesn't appear to be leaking internally (no white smoke from exhaust. I am going to swap in a different modulator, to see if that helps. Any other thoughts on things to check, or am I at the service life (long one too!) of the trans? I will rebuild/replace if needed, but don't want to spend the time or money right now if I can avoid it. Thank you for any input, Tom

The panels with the large holes clear the part of the molding where the screw head seats. The panels with the small holes have this counter sunk seat in them (no trim). My 71 and 72 and my 70 El Camino all have the small holes and no trim. I remember wanting to put this trim on my 71 years ago, but it didn't fit too well, mebbe because of the smaller holes? I will try to get pics of the trim in a couple of days. Best, Tom

pics of the fender extensions showing differences: with molding: without molding side by side hope this is of interest. Tom

I have seen them on some 70 El Caminos and Chevelle station wagons, but not on many (any?) Malibus. Also, from looking at a pile of 70 Monte parts I got from a friend this week, I think there were 2 different types of headlight doors (fender extensions) as well, those with big holes for the chrome, those with small holes without chrome. Best, Tom