Steve G

i would try using your stock LS manifolds first. aftermarket headers look cool but they are a hassle. At work we buy headers for the Ls swaps but they never fit without modification unless they are skimpy tiny little suckers. Sometime we end up buying 3 or 4 sets for the chevelles before we can come up with a match... and these are companies that have made the headers specifically for that car. Dont even get me started about the oil pan, engine mounts and crossmember kits.

The vintage air systems are only good for custom applications or cars that are unavailable with factory air conditioning. The systems are somewhat cheap quality but are fine when there are no other options. I have installed a half dozen VA systems and have never been totally thrilled with the outcome, fit and finish, mounting and reliability have always been an issue.

GM has been known to be sloppy with color codes. Many silverado trucks and vans in the mid 90s through the mid 2000s had incorrect color codes (metallic red and a metallic beige would show code 8554 which was white). Mid 70s to early 80s camaros had the same issues (black Camaros would show a code for silver). I cant see the Monte being excluded form errors like this

painted my Nissan in Diamont basecoat.. 0ne gallon did all the jambs, entire engine compartment, the outside, the campershell, and the hood 2 more times, plus i still have a few ounces left over. Tried to paint a honda accord (just the outside) with a gallon of PPG basecoat and ran out before full coverage. Some brands cover better than others... some colors cover better than others. Want the worst of the worst?...GM millennium yellow in PPG waterbase.

dont use it, its an unstable product (called a "good faith" product in the autobody industry) Its basically a hybrid mix of fiberglass resin and liquid bondo.

70 is the best, 71 and 72.. Or a 71 with a 72 bumper

Read about the silver car.... it says he had spent 3 grand on this car...... HAHA,..... Times have changed

mine has the same radio

reproduction chrome plating process is for quick sale and not to last long.... where i work we have a lifetime warranty on reproduction bumpers... we are constantly changing out 2 year old Taiwan bumpers that have rusted away

why risk it?........ if you have all this time in the body of your car it seems crazy to chance destroying it.... wait till it warms up a bit.

I have had 3 GM crate engines..... good for the price... the advertised Horsepower is best case and not likely.. somewhat sedated performance compared to what they advertise.. but they do run smooth... Good credit card purchase.

so cool

this is new to me...... what is a fiber optic windshield washer? what does it do?

well..... better to see that now than to pay top dollar for it all painted and done, then find out a year later. I hate to tell you but there are Barret Jackson cars that have sin like that

I like U-Pol Gold filler and U-Pol gold Glaze... they are designed to also be mixed together to control thickness and consistancey as needed.... sands about 3x faster than Rage Extreme and no paper plugging, bodyline shaping comes up super fast and zero pinholes. Sandable within 5 minutes to 10 minutes depending on how you control cure time... No Shrinking.. ever. Easily finished off to 320 grit (thats not a typo!) for the picky preppers if needed. 180 grit finish is effortless Been using it for years... not one problem yet.

remove the factory quarter doing the least amount of damage as possible.... repair areas that are generally not reachable.... fit new quarter and weld in as factory as you can.... double and triple check gaps over and over again before welding.... and so on..... This is what i do every day... dont rush it Here is the car pre-fitted.... not one weld yet.

por-15 is a thing of the past.. old outdated product.... Wire brush, wire wheel, wipe down with lacquer thinner, XO rust, tremclad, rustoleum etc... and move on

Chances are nobody will be able to get you an exact colormatch... it will come down to how good the painter is and how much blend room he/she has. older aged paint makes for a battle too.

Truth behind it is the top is a stock monte, the sail panels have been opened up to hold larger 1/4 glass... give a streched streamline look.

Good rule of thumb..... if you find a 1" rust hole on a 40" piece of metal... remove 38" of good metal.....that last inch of good metal you left behind will rust away on you... No such thing as removing all the rust..... I know its not logical to replace everything....Seam sealers applied properly before paint is usually overlooked yet its critical for rust control. And when the body of the car is done spend the money on anti-corrosion materials (closed cell foams, wet films, dry films etc) its very expensive but works wonders. I will get you some part numbers. Por-15, most undercoatings and everything thats easy to buy (kragen, home depot) are damaging to your car and is false confidence that your repairs are secure... they are not.

cool! And some FYI.... new fillers wont work over brass so get rid of as much of it as you can.

the "aluminum bondo" you are talking about is the final cry to patch up a rust bucket that has past a point of no return.... It does not block in well, fillers dont adhere well, epoxys, urethanes, etch primers dont react well long term.... Do yourself a favor and keep it simple.. get a nice solid metal foundation on your car and go from there.. Fiberglass/resins, aluma bondos,fiber bondos etc. will in no way fix your car or make it look good. My filler of choice is U-pol gold with U-pol gold glaze.... its a production filler but wont shrink or leave feather edges and pinholes...

Fiberglass should never NEVER be used as a filler on metal. Good quality body filler (not bondo) Used under the right circumstances and over the right materials will last a very very long time... Remember 99% of all bodywork failures is from improper workmanship.... And everyone is a bodyman and a painter...

that thing flew out of the truck... The chances of pulling the skin away, repairing the bracing and re-attaching everything is near impossible without destroying everything else in the process.

scratch the hell out of it with 40 grit.... aircraft..... wire brush