72Ragtop

Well, my check came back, so I guess I'm "renewed" after a few years.

I guess I've been removed. Used to get a renewal notice. Glad time was spent on confusing computer crap and not on concentrating on clear communications. Not all of us live on computers.

Too bad we were no longer sent renewal notices, like before. I guess I've been removed. At least the site has more confusing icons!

Curious what these grill badges are and look like...I've been a member since 2006.

I don't get on here as often as I should, but I think I've been a member since around 2006 and now I'm a "newbie" w/ some sort of "icon" attached. (Where's the "index" for what "icons"-if that's the right word for them- mean?) Do I have to earn points now? Did I miss an "update" to the site or being punished for not getting on here often enuf or not being "tech-savvy?

I wish my wife would let me park my Monte ragtop in the house like you guys...................holy cow! I scrolled back, those are models!!!! nice jobs. Dave

"Old Aire" has a good selection of heater/ac stuff like hoses, vents & ectc.

After getting "locked out" (my non-computer term") since May or June 2020, I'm back and finally able to log on. God, how I hate "computer nonsense"!!! Now I got some catching up to do. Dave

I forgot to comment ....Paul Bell's modified wiring system (the diagram with the battery in the trunk) is very good!!!....maybe lacking a "max fuze" on the charge cable (I'll bet if he's a pro-audio guy, it is there, but just left off the diagram)

I have 70 & 72 (not a 71) service manuals....the engine bay charging system wiring is slitely different between the two. Wire splice location(s) & component locations vary, but operate pretty much the same. I will say that the "common component" is the "hot-at-all-times" buss-bar (aka: junction block) at the Horn relay. Battery, charge circuits and "high amp accessories" end up "connecting" to that point, if not directly, thru a splice. Also, running two smaller gauge wires from point "A" to point "B" is not recommended in the "electrical community"....

Just did it to mine. Use 6 ga.

Consider this.....Without debating wire colours, but assuming the pink/wite is, in fact, "Ignition on, switched power" to the window switches...remove the O.E. relay and install a 30 Amp circuit breaker (C.B.). Supply power to the C.B. from a "Hot at all times/battery power source". Consider protecting it with a 40 Amp fuse. Doing this eliminates the need to have the ignition key in your possession AND in the ignition AND in the "ACC" or "On" position. Notes: 1) the PW circuit wires (except the "ignition on" wire) should be 10 Ga. Any thing smaller is asking for problems. Maybe not next week but in several years as they age. 2) check ALL wires that pass thru the door...they will likely break there at some point. 3) old, original 4-pin (drivers door) switch will likely become "touchy" during operation of the driver's window. It is used more than all the other windows, and will likely fail due to electronic arcing, as power is send to the 50 year old PW motor (Like the #@$% 3rd speed of the heater fan on a 50 year old AC car!!!!) 4) if you don't have one, get a FACTORY G.M./Chevy service manual, a probe light that indicates power and a "good quality" Digital Volt Meter {DVM} {If you get the $6.00 red colour units from Harbour Freight, get two.....so you can check that the 1st one is working. And, a couple of test wires w/ alligator clips. Also suggest you photo copy the factory wire diagrams (to 11 x 17 size), that way you can mark on them (PENCIL) with changes, fixes, and modifications. I'm up to 30 or so "wiring drawings" on my Monte. Don't panic, piece o' cake! good luck.

Jared, I just now saw your post about checking out a car in Arvada, Colo. It is only 45 minutes to the south. Next time call or send a PM. Dave Winters

I've tried to reply to what may have been a private E-mail about this subject, but with all things computer...the simple things, that I have done before will not work as "something" has been changed. I did get an E-mail from "somewhere" about it not going thru, but it was written in "un-understandable computer gibberish". (I have a flip-phone) I am now retired and no longer have the ability to print or scan. If any one wants a copy of my custom wiring diagram of this relay/heater control system, send a standard business-size SASE to: Dave Winters, 112 35th street SW, Loveland, Colo. 80537

I've had this on most of my GM's w/ AC that have 4-speeds for the fan. Hard to nail down the specific issue which is the Fan or the switch itself. As the fan ages, it can be harder to get it turning, requiring more amps which can stress the wiring and the fan switch internal contacts. I've normally had the switch fail in the 3rd highest speed, (the one I seem to want to use the most!), while the lower two speeds continue to work. Also look for high heat build up at the "Max speed" in-line fuse and wiring that are in the engine bay...I've seen that get so hot that the factory in-line fuse holder "melts" slitely and makes max speed function intermittently. In 2007 during my MC Convertible build, I installed new fan, new switch AND 4 relays with it's own 10 ga. wire and Circuit Braker, so the fan load is no longer on the switch contacts. No law says you have to use that plastic connectour body...crimp and solder on a good female terminal and cover with heat shrink. Example: New aftermarket electronic cooling fans normally require a 30 or 40 Amp Circuit Braker....this is for the high amps normally required to get the turning....Amp requirements drop while the fan(s) are running....it is that first start-up that is "arcing" at the GM fan switch and slowly destroying the contacts and causing heat build-up. I'm installing a complete Vintage Air AC system as I write this, so I pulling the old system from 2007 and was "redlining" my custom wiring diagrams, so I was checking the site and saw your posting. The fotos I attached are of the "Relay System" I installed in 2007.