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1972mc

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Everything posted by 1972mc

  1. I'm glad I checked my email. Just made my reservations for June 20-23. Was able to get a qn/qn under our club block. My car is coming out of the body shop this week, so no more damaged fender at this coming meet. Carl
  2. Jegs has no written specs on their site and I did not bother to call and talk with a "kid"(: Having scoured many posts, and mag articles here is what I'm going with: .5 negative camber 4.0 positive caster 1/16-1/8 toe
  3. It's been a long long time since I've posted so Hello. I need specs to take advantage of the geometry improvements of tubular U/L control arms jegs and qa1 coilovers. I don't want an autocross setup- just a cruiser for my weekend jaunts in the country. Getting her ready ro drive to Carlisle next month. Thanks for anybody's experience. Carl Hanson (VA)
  4. Member Last Name: hanson Member First Name: carl Club Website Screen Name:1972mc Name of others in your party (please include ages of kids:jerry Total number in your Party:2 City:barboursville State:va Arrival Date:6.22 Departure Date:6.26 Year of your Monte:1972 Color:black Vinyl Top Yes/No:no Vinyl Top Color: Class Registration:street Hotel: Fairfield Room Type Qn/Qn, King qn/qn Email Address:carlmhanson@gmail.com
  5. This has been another fantastic Eastern meet. I was especially pleased to see at least 2 new members received a trophy. Thanks Jared and Donnie.
  6. Been there-done that Just go with it. Carl
  7. Hi Mike- it's a flat tappet. Would like to replace with same as I'm trying to keep the budget low. Am a big believer in ZDDP as the inventor is a friend of mine in the Buick Grand National community. Carl
  8. Hi Guys- I have decided to pull my engine for a number of reasons: 1. Dinged something a couple of years ago while playing with timing causing a very loud bang upon startup that caused my compresion in #7 to be something like 80 whereas all other cylinders were in the 140-150 range. I have not performed leak down test but am eyeing a tester on amazon. 2. Rear main leaks 3. hate the cam, it has no low end grunt. Cheap grind to achieve high HP reading on their dyno. 404 tq/400hp. If it ever achieved 1/2 that I would be surprised. My main objective besides fixing item #1, is to swap the cam for something milder. I rarely take it to the strip and it just doesn't cruise around town very well ie: really rough idle, no brakes, no low end torque. Please make recommendations based upon what I have said. I still want to be able to race it. Have always believed I could drop way down on the cam and still achieve better 1/8 mile times. Best was 8.6 at something like 80-82mph. Have records (somewhere) where I recorded all the timing, jetting,accel cam,pv,plug type, accel nozzle, dist spring setup but not sure if it's most current Look at signature for details on my setup. think the converter is just above stock stall FYI engine is Blueprint engine (marshall eng) vortec heads 2.02 in/1.60 ex cam 234/244 .487/.508 110 deg 9.5-1 comp Thanks, Carl
  9. Couple of thoughts... Sanding a dash you will generally only hit the tops of the textured surface-have you used scotchbrite. Is the clear also a SEM product. What did you clean dash with prior to paint. I use acetone before spraying plastics. Wait a few days after painting before testing adhesion, and get some heat into what your painting before you paint it.(ie: halogen light or heat gun) I have had bad luck clear coating both clean metal parts and spraying over metal parts that were recently painted. Good luck Carl
  10. Rob-glad to hear you made it back without too many issues. Make sure to check your hospital bill for a line item from anesthesiology? Carl
  11. We have all been patiently waiting for this great news. Really glad your home and feeling better. Carl
  12. Have u been using ZDDP+ additive? Not as important if it's a roller cam, but I'm guessing it's not if your having problems this early. Carl
  13. Rob-Our prayers are with you. Hospitals are not a great place to be when we're sick. Get well soon so that you can get healthy back at home. Carl
  14. Having the same issue since getting A/C compressor working again. It'll run from 200 to 210 and on hill or under heavy accel to 220. I think I used to run 180-190 before compressor. Running stock fan/shroud, 3 core OEM style radiator. All components were replaced during resto 4 years and 12 K ago. Wow have you seen the prices on all aluminum radiators? I did just clamp off the heater hoses, and am running straight water with water wetter. Will try test of driving in heat with no A/C to see what temps are running.
  15. just looked at mine- I had cut wire and then re-installed my A/C. The splice was buried in the main wire harness but my schematic says it's tan 20 g. Carefully cut or peel back the tape on main harness just below and to the left of the wiper motor. I converted to a Holley carb some time ago so needed the correct solenoid and bracket. Ordered it from Holley. Don't have p/n but they will know exactly what you'll need. Good luck. Carl
  16. In my sig file, the cardomain site has all progress pics, of which many are frame and body apart. They were separate for a long long time. Carl
  17. Make sure if you get the wheels vintique 15x8 rallies, to tell them the backspacing you want. My tires are 245/6015 on front and 255/6015 on rear. 70 series tires will reduce the rubbing potential but IHMO do not look as nice. I suggest Backspacing 4.0 front and rear. That will give it the deep look, without rubbing. I have the 15x8 with 5.0 backspacing for my drag radials and they look wimpy because their tucked in so far. One way to get an idea of somebodies backspacing is to look at the gap between the proper 15x8 trim ring (rounded edges-not squared)and the rally wheel. You will see about a 1" gap if it has the 4.0 BS and no gap if it has the 5.0 BS. Hope this helps. I got mine at Jegs. Carl
  18. Keith, I did the same thing a few years ago. Had replaced with new GM inners back in early 90's and the pass side cracked within a few years. Apparently that's the one that cracks for most due to the battery weight. Replaced in 2007 with metal ones. Scuff yours up and paint. I did not rubber coat the wheel side and have not noticed any rock ding noise. Carl PS where in va are you? I'm in Charlottesville.
  19. 1972mc

    Tick

    Recently attended a clinic for my other car (Buick Grand National), and they could not have been more vehement about the necessity of ZDDP in all flat tappet engines. Like has been said, the oil had zinc removed a few years ago and we are left unprotected. It is going in all my v8's. Also was told that synthetics will drain off the metal and will not leave a layer of protection like dinosaur oils. This is especially bad for those of us that do not drive our cars on a regular basis. BTW my Buick with 86K miles has a wiped lobe (2 of them), after owner ran mobil 1 synthetic for the last few years. Lots of metal shavings, wrecked mains etc... She is all apart in prep for a total rebuild. Carl
  20. I had the pleasure of meeting Ronnie at Greensburg, Charlotte, and Norwalk Eastern meets. He was one of the 1st members I met and made me feel welcome. He will be missed by all of us. Prayers and thoughts to his family and to his great friend-Phillip. Carl
  21. The only mod I will do on the Monte this year is upgrade the torque converter. Look at my sig file for current car specs. .487Int / .508 Exh & 234 Int / 244 Exh duration @ .050 - 112 degree lobe sep. 9.5-1 comp. Looking for an inexpensive converter to give me a better launch but still feel like a stock (or close to) on the street. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Carl
  22. What terrible news. I really enjoyed hanging out with Ronnie and Phillip at the last 3 Eastern meets. I was looking forward to seeing him in June. Prayers going out to him and his family. Carl
  23. Just weighed her a week ago. Wanted to see how much weight she gained with all A/C components, stereo w/ amp and more fatmat. 4100 with me (160#) and 1/2 tank of gas S/B with iron vortec heads, rally wheels Carl
  24. My hard luck story at the EM paled in comparison to Eli's -but I was the #1 contender for a while. Anyway, my power steering pulley started to wobble, making it and the pump non-servicable. Luckily this occurred at the end of the 470 mile trip to the EM. Ordered a pump at Advance Auto but the pulleys are not usually bad and it was not available. Rick had just changed to March pulleys and living about 5 minutes from The Kalahari Hotel, he went home, found his old pulley degreased it, painted it black and brought it back on Friday morning in time for me, Mike, Mike and Dave to get it back on in time to go racing Friday nite. Thanks a million Rick for going the extra mile to help out a fellow member. Carl
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