RODS70BB
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Posts posted by RODS70BB
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59 minutes ago, MC-71 said:
Do they really have them in stock?
Doesn’t look like it. Restoparts looks like the supplier and they don’t have them either.
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49 minutes ago, Dtret said:
Their description reads 70-72. That’s a problem if you’re doing it correctly
I agree, what I would like to see is the back/inside of these. If anyone has purchased them maybe they could shed more light on this. Thanks for the replies.
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Has anyone purchased or seen these fenders? What are y’all’s thoughts on them?
Their Part# M240305-PR.
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I removed the control panel when I changed the heater core and the black backer was indeed the problem. I trimmed it down and it lights up just like it’s supposed to.
Thanks for the solution!
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I got my first Monte when I was 18, for a graduation gift. Although I had to pay it off. My Mom and Dad bought it new in Dec 1969. It was white with black vinyl top and fender skirts. Skirts were the first thing to go when I got it. LOL This was 1972. Wish I had kept it.
You have a beautiful car. Congrats on the anniversary.
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Welcome Eric. Beautiful car. I bet it sure turns some heads in Germany. I'm guessing you guys and gals have car shows there, if so, are there many American classic Cars there?
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Finally changed the steering gear box. Then it was on to the heater core. Man is that a job. Got a new core from O'Rielly's and it fit perfect. Heater box was in great shape other than the dried up anti-freeze from the leak. Cleaned it all up and reinstalled it. I have to say going back in was the hardest for me. Getting it to stay in place to get a nut started would have been much easier with two people. I did remove both bucket seats and the rear seat along with the console. I took all the carpet and insulation out and power washed it. Will be putting it back in today after I finish sewing 2 dozen hats for a customer and cleaning the fish I caught yesterday. Gonna be a long day!
Thanks to all that shared info on the core change out. That made it much easier.
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On 10/17/2020 at 5:33 PM, CK70MonteCarlo said:
1970 LS6 454
I like where you mounted the overflow can.
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18 minutes ago, jft69z said:
There is only one bulb for that HVAC control panel. Did you by chance replace the front lens & black backer with something from the aftermarket?
If so, that black backer is just a bit too long and blocks the light from reflecting thru the clear plastic lens. I ran into that very problem when I rebuilt my dash. Pulled the lens off again with the 4 spring clips, trimmed the black backer to the length of the stock one and reassembled. There should be a gap of maybe 1/8 to 3/16" on the end where the bulb is for the light to shine through. Panel lit up after that.
Thanks for that information. I’ll check that. I’ve never had it apart but it does seem to be misshapen.
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It is just the A/C control panel that is not illuminated. All other lights come on with the headlight switch, and will dim. The one bulb that I fond on the rear of that control panel housing is lit up.
Also I have Dakota Digital gauge package and it works fine.
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My control panel will not light up when the headlights are turned on. Is there more than one bulb for this? The bulb that I found on the right, back side Is illuminated but it doesn’t light up the panel. How does this work? Is there supposed to be a reflector in there? Or is there another bulb I’m missing? Maybe on the bottom?
Thanks for any help, Rodney -
Got her back to the house after engine swap and FiTec install. She was idling in the garage while I put The trailer up. When I got back to her I saw a big puddle of antifreeze on the floor. Heater core is leaking! Arg. And I thought my boat was a black hole for money. LOL
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Thanks guys!
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Well now, since this was brought up, I have a question. I’m going back to factory exhaust manifolds and bought the spacer. I can’t seem to find what side it goes on. I seem to remember it being on the driver side. It would make sense as there is more room there on the big block cars. So which side?
Thanks, Rodney
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Got my wheels back on with new rubber.
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I got my wheels back yesterday and got some measurements. The rear tires are Toyo 275/40/r17 and are 10.375" wide. The cross section should be 10.83" if it was really 275mm. The back space on the wheel is 5.75". The clearance on the outer wheel well molding is 1.5" and the overall opening is just over 13". That leaves about an 1.125" in back. A 5.5" backspace would work just fine with this tire. A 295 tire would also work as it should be about 11.6" wide. See photos
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Looking for a metal worker for my front fenders. 1970 MC. Both have been bowed in. Leaned on them to much I guess. I can reach inside and push them out but they pop right back in. I would like some recommendations for someone who has actually done this kind of fix. I was thinking a paintless dent repair but don’t want to leave her with just anyone.
Thanks for any help, Rodney -
2 minutes ago, 420ponies said:
Here is mine with the 4.5" back spacing with 275 /60/15 redlines
Love those redlines!
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Can’t really tell much from this picture, but here they are before.
235/45/R17 front
275/40/R17 rear
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I have 17x8.5 w/5.75 backspacing. The wheels are getting powder coated right now. I take a picture of the backspacing and with wheels installed, when I get them back. I do have a rear disc brake setup.
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On 7/17/2020 at 6:34 PM, DragCat said:
I just checked, the Lucas is cheaper at Summit than it is here local. The 10-4003 additive is the same price. But I did see the price on the (GM# 89021669), crazy abut that kind of increase. Thanks for bringing it to my attention though. I'm not particularly happy with my local options , Ive learned "order it and pick it up today" is only if the warehouse delivery gets there on time. I guess i'm old and spoiled because I remember walking into a parts store and having the person behind the counter know something about cars. Not just type keys on a computer. Ok rant over lol
That’s funny about the local options. It’s the same here. 3 parts stores and only one has a guy that knows cars. But he is hardly ever there.
If it’s not in the computer it’s not available. No ability to figure anything out.I’m in the process of replacing my tires and the major store in town wanted to know what kind of car. Naturally the sizes I told them I wanted didn’t match their computer. It’s to the point now that I let them make a fool out of their selves and then take them out and show them. It’s gotten to be cheap entertainment for me!🤣
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Rear - 17x 8.5 5.75” backspace
Toyo 275/40/R17
Front - 17 x 8.5. 5.75” backspace
Toyo 235/45/17
I’ll post pictures when wheels come back from powder coated.
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I had some leaking seals on the rear end after sitting for a couple of years. Replaced the pinion seal, and both axle seals. When I pulled the left axle there was some pitting marks in the bearing area, so I decided it was time for new axles and bearings. Got the new stuff at Summit. It’s sure nice to have that close by. Got it all buttoned up and will add fluid tomorrow before it gets to hot. It was about 96 degrees when I called it for the day.
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2 hours ago, Paul Bell said:
Stock style exhaust manifolds rob power. What's wrong with the Hooker headers?
While that's true, they do rob power, these were the same used on the LS6. They can flow more than enough for my mild 461. The hookers drag over speed bumps and it's almost impossible to get to the #8 plug.
Steel front fenders from OPGI
in Auto Body Repair
Posted
That is my concern. I’ve read somewhere that the dies for the fenders were destroyed. If that is truly the case then someone has made a substantial investment in die’s. And if that is the case then I believe they will eventually come to market. Time will tell. It would be nice to have a source for a quality replacement.