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dyermullet

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About dyermullet

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    Houston
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    S T
  1. Well the whole interior of the car is sandalwood. The bench had been recovered before I bought the carea because didn't have holes for the lap belts. I believe I had found the part number above for sandalwood from pui that I listed above. I used pui cloth on my buick and was not happy with it. The material was not same as originally it was more velour. On this car I just want it to look nice I don't care about original. I wanted to try different than pui this time. Has anyone used the pui bench with the bolster? I will look at the year one link closer tonight. Thanks
  2. I need to replace the front seat foam and covers on 71 monte carlo with split bench, sandalwood color, vinyl not cloth. On PUI website in the catalog I can't understand what I am looking at. On legendary auto interiors they only list cloth for 1971. The car is just a driver not a show car, I just need to recover the front seat. Can someone help me out with what part number I need? I am open to different manufactures doesn't have to be only PUI or Legendary. Thank you Scott Edit: Car is a 1971 From using this website: http://www.autoobsession.com/1971-72montecarlointeriorkits.aspx 71MS41B - is split bench sandal wood. PUI-71MS41B1 - is split bench sandalwood with bolster I send Legendary an email.
  3. My car doesn't have that big block. So disn't come with that wilwood.
  4. I updated the original thread with some more details. If you are building a cruiser, for the price of these engines from a junk yard, and the ease of swapping I can't see spending the time doing an LS swap unless you really just wanted to. The only "hassle" is loosing the mechanical fuel pump, but a cheap electric inline pump has resulted in a super easy starting car never have extended cranking to fill the float bowls back up. Even with 2.73 gears the car has more than enough power. The stock cam is so mild the engine will idle no problem at 550 rpm with the AC compressor running.
  5. Thank you for confirming the correct diameter. I had already went ahead and ordered a 1 1/8" since the car was power brakes I made the assumption that it would give me the better performance. I didn't want to have the longer pedal travel required of the 1" piston. New (not reman) MC was $2 more than a rebuild kit, so I am going to try that route first before the hassle of rebuilding mine.
  6. I need to replace the master cylinder on my 71. All stock brakes. Which one did the car come with when new 1" or 1 1/8". Thank you Scott
  7. Just posting a followup for everyone. I went with an inner fender from AMD on the passengerside. It fit very very well. Only one hole didn't line up perfectly. I was suprised due to age of car and poor alignment of front sheet metal. It was missing one bolt hole for the plastic piece that fills the underside gap between the bottom of inner fender and bottom of firewall. I purchased a hardware kit on ebay. I think made by inline tube. Now I have lots of left over bolts for future projects. Found a bunch of loose bolts and sheet metal brackets under the car that I was able to tighten up. Majority of the rattles are gone now.
  8. Bringing this thread back. I am now ready to replace the PS inner fender with a metal one. Plastic one is shot. Any suggestions on which company has the best quality? Or which has the best price? I am going to start searching tonight.
  9. Black with yellow is positive not negative. When testing on the bench you have to make sure to attach a second negative lead to the body of the assembly. I am on my 3rd cardone reman. first was doa in box, second worked for a month now on to the third. They were all wired the correct way. After the second one died I just questioned my wiring. What I can say is the remans look just like the picture of the brand new cardone units. All of mine have had a brand new frame, new gears, I dunno about the motors.
  10. Thank you very much again. I got the replacement wiper motor installed and running. On my third reman. I was starting to question the wiring hookups but I had them correct the whole time.
  11. Thank you very much that is exactly what i needed. That is how i had mine wired, but the fsm shows the solid black to be on middle terminal. But looking at two motors it didnt make sense. I am going to write this into my manual (in pencil). I work with electrical schematics for a living. Maybe i am just used to the gm manuals from 80s cars on up but this 1971 chevy manual wiring diagrams is horrible. Is their a better book i need to find. Maybe a dedicated chassis electrical book? I had to take the switch apart to confirm which wires do what because nothing matched the manual
  12. Thank you very much that is exactly what i needed. That is how i had mine wired, but the fsm shows the solid black to be on middle terminal. But looking at two motors it didnt make sense. I am going to write this into my manual (in pencil). I work with electrical schematics for a living. Maybe i am just used to the gm manuals from 80s cars on up but this 1971 chevy manual wiring diagrams is horrible. Is their a better book i need to find. Maybe a dedicated chassis electrical book? I had to take the switch apart to confirm which wires do what because nothing matched the manual
  13. Change the alternator out for an internal regulated one. It bolts right in. Change the connector at the alternator can get one from the help section of the automarts store. Then make two jumper wires to plug in place of the external regulator. My external regualted alternator wouldn't put out more then 12V. Also check that your alternator idiot light works. If bulb is bad alternator will never charge. Do a google search lots of info out there (correct and incorrect) on how to install the jumpers. I finally just put an amp meter inline to the wire that excites the alternator field. If hooked up wrong it will drain the battery dead with the car off. One way had an amp draw with car off, hooked up other way and no draw with car off.
  14. 1971 I have a a factory service manual. I think someone has changed the wires in the connectors at the wiper motor because the colors don't match to manual and don't match up with the switch. I need help with the wiring at the motor itself. The dash side is correct. Black wire - neg goes to the middle terminal. I need help with the positive Black with yellow strip, and the other negative light blue. Which terminal gets the positive (black with yellow stripe) and which one get the light blue? Thanks in advance.
  15. I am in agreement with the earlier posts. I had to flood the cowl with water to create a leak. I am hoping real world conditions i have no leaks.
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