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Archie

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About Archie

  • Birthday 01/01/1979

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  • Location
    Corunna, Ontario, Canada
  • Interests
    My kids, and racing
  • Occupation
    Process operator

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  1. Man Dave, you got that thing dialed in!! Thanks for sharing.
  2. I would say LS1 as that's the way I am going, but regardless of how cheap you can get an engine, everything else starts to add up real quick (>$3000). I haven't worked on mine in a while but I really want to get it done this year. My buddy just got his 85 S-10 done with a stock LQ4 6.0L and you coulldn't smack the grin off his face. haha
  3. I with Sam for a first step go with the gears (3.08). It'll really change the attitude of the car while cruising.
  4. It's always good to give things a once over... i.e. timing, hoses, fluid levels, spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor. That is awesome that you had that shipped over there. I really need to get my Monte up and running. I really like the pic in your signature, well done!
  5. I love it when a plan come together That is a sweet ride man. Sure would suck slowing it down, but she sure is consistent.
  6. All my electronics are from Howellefi. I would consider PSI next time, better pricing. I'm going to try and put the ecm in the car up under the dash if it all works out as planned.
  7. I had to notch the top of the crossmember as well. I just cut it and welded in a piece of plate. In the future i might just make one out of tubing to give it a bit cleaner look.
  8. The F-Body pan fits good with the 1" setback plates, but i suggest using an engine leveller when installing the motor and trans together as I had to have it at quite the angle to get the pan past the crossmember. It may actually be easier to just put the trans in after the motor from underneath.
  9. Sorry I didn't see this earlier. I kept the motor mounts in the stock location on the frame. Replaced the block motor mount with a polyurethane one and used 1" setback plates attached to the block as well. By doing this I was able to use the F-Body oil pan. I am using the 4L60E so I had to relocate and modify the trans cross member. I also need to take ~2.5" off the driveshaft (likely going to have a chromemoly one made). I am using trailblazer SS exhaust manifolds for now (headers later). I had to relocate the brake line distribution block as the exhaust manifold hit it. So far it looks like I can keep the stock column shifter if I want (sleeper look). I need to mount the fuel system and finish up the wiring yet. I may run a clutch fan for a bit before switching to electrics.
  10. I am sure it ment more to him then will ever know! That's a cool memory for you guys.
  11. I am an avid lurker on the chevelle site and there was lots of people thinking this guy was just another internet engine builder with inflated numbers. Mark is actually quite active on that site now and he backed up his performance everytime. I think it would be worth a call to him and get his input. I think you choose a very good builder and obviously did your home work up front. That's a nice setup you have. I also agree gears will definitely wake that engine up.
  12. I kept the motor mounts in the stock location on the frame. Replaced the block motor mount with a polyurethane one and used 1" setback plates attached to the block as well. By doing this I was able to use the F-Body oil pan. I am using the 4L60E so I had to relocate and modify the trans cross member. I also need to take ~2.5" off the driveshaft (likely going to have a chromemoly one made). I am using trailblazer SS exhaust manifolds for now (headers later). I had to relocate the brake line distribution block as the exhaust manifold hit it. So far it looks like I can keep the stock column shifter if I want (sleeper look). I need to mount the fuel system and finish up the wiring yet. I may run a clutch fan for a bit before switching to electrics.
  13. A light with the advanced feature is so nice. Then all you need is 0 degrees marked on the balancer.
  14. Although this was a while back, it will likely still work. I used to use the manifold gaskets. You can double them up as well, and then the same as others have said tighten them up after a few heat cycles. When I had an 84 Z28 I swapped in a mild 350 with shorty headers and mandrel bent 3" single exhaust (not the most room for duels) and I continually blew out the header/collector gaskets. This solved the header gasket problem, but the collector always blew out as the back pressure must have been to much. Worth a try as most of us end up with piles of these manifold gaskets anyway, lol.
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