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MagicDragon42

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Everything posted by MagicDragon42

  1. I replaced my stock steering box with one from a '85 Camaro SS. The ratio lock to lock is OK but the turning radius now is too large. What Pitman arm did you use? Mike
  2. Bobby, I tried 1 1/2 inch puck risers in my '71 Monte and thought it was a bit too high for me. I ended up using Chevelle convertible rear springs and air shocks. If you are interested in the set of pucks send me a PM and you can have them for the price of shipping. Mike
  3. The horn switch in the steering wheel switches ground and not 12VDC. The red 10 gauge wire to the horn relay comes directly from the hot single terminal post just in front of the battery mounted on the radiator support frame. When you press the horn button the horn relay picks and sends the 12 VDC to the horn(s). If you're certain the horn relay is picking and you've checked the horn directly with 12 VDC, the problem is most likely with the horn relay or a connection in the relay or connection at the horn. Mike
  4. There is a listing on eBay for $295 + $20 shipping for used boxed lower control arms. Or you can buy an aftermarket set of upper and lower control arms for about the same price. Mike
  5. I also set mine at 0.045 with the HEI ignition. That's been six years without any problems in my 402. I have read some reviews about E3 plugs. Looks like people really like them or hate them. Mike
  6. I have Monroe air shocks in the rear of my 71 Monte @ 60psi and my car does not bounce. I then added Moog 5385 rear coil springs and a Hotchkis 1" rear sway bar and now it doesn't lean. Since I weigh 260lbs, I guess you might say my car carries a heavy load even though I'm almost always by myself. Mike
  7. Hi Rod. I don't know about your '70 but my '71 horn circuit has nothing to do with the ignition switch necessary to blow the horn except for the key in switch + door open that causes the horn relay to vibrate as a key warning. Is that what you are trying to show in your diagram? Mike
  8. I had the same question a few years ago when I installed a trans cooler on my Monte and you are correct. The top line at the radiator is the one from the transmission and the bottom line is the return to the transmission. Cooler should be installed on the bottom line. Mike
  9. Dan, are you certain the the 85-88 Monte SS steering boxes have a variable ratio and the stock 70-72 boxes are fixed? When I did my steering box change two years ago I measured the stock 71 box at 12:1 at each lock and 16:1 at center position. The 85 box I put in measured at 12.8:1 through the entire range. Mike
  10. I agree with Ian. BMR has very nice suspension components at a reasonable price. As far as replacing the front sway bar is concerned, it is not very difficult to do. It can be done in less than 30 minutes but there is little reason to replace it unless it is damaged or you are going to use a larger bar. As far as the control arms are concerned, there is no reason to replace stock control arms with stock control arms. If you are trying to improve the handling of your Monte there are several past posts in this section that have many good suggestions as to what to do based upon your budget and desired end result. Most likely you will want to upgrade the springs, perhaps the control arms, bushings and shocks and that is just on the front. For certain you want to put together a complete plan for both front and rear before you do anything. That way you will not be wasting any time or money as you do the work. You also might consider if you are going to change wheel or tire sizes in your plan. Mike
  11. Best investment I ever made for trouble shooting auto electrical problems. I bought a used one at a swap meet and saved quite a bit over list price. After using one, I would still call it a great tool at full retail. I have the Power Probe III and it paid for itself trouble shooting the problems on a 1963 Lincoln Continental convertible with all of the relays and switches. Mike
  12. Try searching in this forum for "led bulbs" (include the quotes in your search). There are several threads on this topic. The LEDs you need are replacements for bulb type 194. Mike
  13. With all of the intake work you are planning on doing, why not just go with a square bore and be done with it? I think you will find a much larger selection of intake manifolds and carburetors that way. You can always put a square peg in a round hole with the right adapter, but why would you want to? Mike
  14. Yes. The stock sway bar will bolt up to the PMT lower control arms. When I did mine, I used a Hocthkis sway bar. Mike
  15. I put PMT rear control arms on my Monte last year and have been very pleased with them. They are made in the USA and the quality was outstanding. Whatever brand you buy, be sure to order the lower control arms with the holes for a sway bar in case you decide to add later. Mike
  16. Bob, I just picked up a 71/72 tilt steering column (Chevelle) that came with a cruise control turn signal lever. It has three wires (red, blue, black). The wire has been cut about 15" from the lever and the "CRUISE" white lettering has significant wear. If you want it, I will send it to you for postage plus a non-cruise control turn signal lever. If interested, send me a PM. Mike
  17. If you will never need the heater or defroster the easiest (and least expensive) thing to do would be to just block off the two heater hoses. The cost of a new heater core is not much, but like Bruce said, "one thing leads to another". Mike
  18. I agree with everything that has been said about the feel of the original steering on the 1st Gen Montes. The stock steering box has a variable ratio that ranges from 16:1 at the center position to 12:1 at each lock position. The 85-88 Monte SS box is a fixed ratio of 12.8:1 lock-to-lock. The stock box has 3.3 turns lock-to-lock with the output shaft rotating 88.6 Degrees. The Monte SS box is 2.4 turns L-T-L but the output shaft only rotates 67.5 degrees. This makes a Monte less maneuverable in tight places like a parking lot. To convert a 1st Gen Monte with power steering you need to change the steering box (a direct replacement), a new rag joint (the one that fits 76 - 86 C10 GMC or Chevy 2 wheel drive pickups), and since the Monte SS steering box has metric O ring fittings and the stock hosees are SAE flare fittings, you need to rework your power steering hoses. Once you make those changes you will like the way your Monte steers. Now you will start thinking about replacing the front control arm bushings, new ball joints, adding a new set of Hotchkis coils, new shocks, a bigger sway bar, add a couple degrees of positive caster to the alignment. And while your at it, new control arms in the rear, add a sway bar, stiffer rear springs, a set of new shocks, a set of 4 lower profile tires and that means 4 new rims. Does it ever end??? Mike
  19. Nate, this is a great right-up on trouble shooting a fuel gauge problem. You should submit it to be included in the Technical Archive section. Mike
  20. Yes. The button on the proportioning valve should be depressed when you bleed the brakes. The "tool" to do this looks like a C clamp. When bleeding, start with the wheel closest to the master cylinder (left front) and then the right front, left rear and then right rear. Mike
  21. Dah!! Of course your right. I meant 4X6. Since the new speaker has a much larger magnet, you need to modify the speaker mounting bracket for clearance. The existing mounting tabs are riveted to the old speaker and these need to be removed and attached to the new speaker. The new speaker also needs to be "trimmed" for clearance. The left side is the most difficult due to the care needed not to damage the printed circuit for the lights and gauges. The right side has no problems for clearance. Mike
  22. Rod, are you certain this is for 1970? The reason I ask is it does not show the vacuum line going from the AC max control position to the heater hose control valve mounted on the right fender well. It also shows the vacuum check valve but not the vacuum storage canister. I believe the diagram you have is for late production (April 71)1971 and 1972. Mike
  23. This has been written about and discussed many times on this forum and others. If you are not racing or towing and you have a flat tappet setup, I think it is safe to say pick any brand of 10W-30 oil you like or trust, either synthetic or not and add ZDDP to it. I use Mobil 1 full synthetic with ZDDP and I've not had a problem in the past 6 years with this combo. Mike
  24. I put a Champion 3 row aluminum radiator in my Monte with a 402, Auto & AC and have been very pleased with it. The fit was perfect and I like the craftsmanship of the welds and components. I run a 185 thermostat and never get above 200 degrees. Mike
  25. The ball valve is the least costly solution. If you want to have direct control of the valve you might want to consider a valve that can be controlled from inside the car. I went to CarQuest and looked through their book until I found PN CTC 277814. I think it used on a late 70s Plymouth. I fits on the 5/8" hose the same as the original vacuum one. I have yet to install the heater control cable so I guess that's a little project for this week. Mike
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