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zmanabba last won the day on December 21 2016

zmanabba had the most liked content!

About zmanabba

Dues paying 5+ years
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  • Birthday 10/25/1962

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  • Location
    Spokane, WA
  • Interests
    restoring/modifying cars/trucks home improvement cooking
  • Legal Name
    David Grant Ziemer
  • Occupation
    Truck driver

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  1. I too would encourage you to keep the car. With it stripped down and undriveable right now it's hard to be enthusiastic but once it is finished the good memories will return. Body work and paint is expensive (for a reason). Is there a chance that you would be willing to carry on as much as you can? You might look into having the rust repaired professionally. What you have described the parts are available to replace the rusted parts. Then the rest is a lot of time and patience. Good luck with whatever you do decide
  2. The important part is retain the same angle. Unfortunately I haven't done the swap yet on mine but I have done a few other cars. From what I have found out there is ample tunnel clearance so moving things around to get the proper angle won't be a problem
  3. Sorry that no one has replied. I will be doing the same swap in the future but not for another year. From what I have gathered so far the stock crossmember can be used by cutting of he mounting tab from the front and switching to the rear. You will probably need to slide the crossmember back also. If it doesn't match up with existing holes in the frame then new ones will need to be drilled. The mounting tab will need to be welded back on. Make sure to keep the 4l80e on the same height as the old set up to maintain the proper drive shaft geometry. Easiest way to do this is to use an angle finder at the back of the transmission. You should be able to download an app for your phone. As a last note make sure that your engine and transmission mounts are in good shape while making measurements, both old and new transmissions. This can throw of the angles and drive shaft vibrations aren't fun.
  4. There are a couple of things that could be going on here. You could have had a piece of crud between your needle and seat in the carb that got flushed out eventually ( although I wouldn't discount the water theory that you had too. A can or two of heet wouldn't be a bad idea ). The other is that your fuel pump could be on it's way out and the extra fuel that you added is pushing the fuel out the tank easier and helping you with low fuel pressure. I would lean towards the crud. A way to verify this is to change your fuel filter and see what's inside. If your pump is weak you will experience the same running problem as the level goes down. Don't crutch this by keeping the level in the tank up, the pump is only going to get worse. I lean towards the crud and it would be a good idea to change out the filter in any case. Good luck, keep us posted
  5. Also if the engine isn't running well enough at idle then you won't have enough vacuum to make the booster work correctly. I would start by fixing your running issue first (off the top of my head I would check carburetor ). Usually if the booster diaphragm fails your idle will be higher from the vacuum leak. But you can verify that from the test suggested above
  6. I have had good luck with the Voodoo grinds, albeit in big blocks. The Mutha Thumpr grinds are suited for more show than go. The 60104 is a great cam in the right combo. Unfortunately those heads will probably be holding you back. The engine would run great ( make sure you install the correct springs ) but with a good set of aftermarket heads would be a beast. Personally if you want to stay with the 461's I would run the 60103 grind. Good luck David
  7. Yes, 5/16 line. The manifold looks like a good way to install a transmission temp gauge without drilling a hole in the pan, which is the only other way I know of to locate the sensor. Yes it's a bit spendy but I would bite the bullet and do it for two reasons: 1. I have before but don't like drilling holes in something that's designed to contain liquid 2. In the overall budget it will be a minor expenditure.
  8. Not exactly an apples to apples comparison but I have a 454 in my 1977 k10 that I had a late 1960's cast iron intake on. It's supposed to be a fair intake for factory. I had to pull it to change out the heads. I had a performer intake that I put back on because I didn't want to wrestle the weight. I could tell no difference in performance. I have heard from a friend that has swapped the old style intake from the newer style pancake that you have and the old style performance was better. So in short if you swap the intakes I think that you might feel a difference in acceleration. But if you are wanting to go back to stock then your choice is clear. If it were me I would agree with Dennis and leave it on. David
  9. Another few things to check. Does this style starter have a rear mount? The factory ones would move around a lot if it was missing. Do you have the factory style starter bolts with the knurled shaft? Again to prevent movement. And finally I had a problem a few years ago with a flexplate that was egg shaped it was bought new ( from NAPA IIRC ) I ended up locating a used factory one to fix the problem. Hope you locate the problem David
  10. zmanabba

    Flex fan

    Not a fan of flex fans (no pun intended). I had one on my 70 due to financial constraints at the time. It was an aluminum one and one day a blade broke off and luckily didn't take anything with it. If you think about it anything that flexes will be subject to fatigue. I have heard of the fiberglass ones doing it also. The only plus there is the blades are light enough to not usually do damage. Also testing has shown ( I think Engine Masters was the most recent ) that the clutch fan is the least amount of power loss over no fan at all. I have a clutch fan on mine right now that I am very happy with. David
  11. zmanabba


    Magnaflow is one. I haven't had any actual experience with installing one however. On my 1967 Firebird I did install a Flowmaster kit and was very impressed with the fit and quality but not the drone. David
  12. X2 on doing it by steps. Don't down the car for long periods of time. It is very easy for these big projects to go from a car to a storage shelf lol. As far as rear gears it depends on what transmission you end up with but most guys with an overdrive seem to lean towards a 3.73. The engine combo you are going for will be a very fun street engine with a lot of torque build the rest of the drivetrain with that in mind. David P.s. To say it another way I agree with the above. Start with the engine and do what it takes to get it safely driving ( brakes, suspension and steering ) don't be afraid to have the stock parts in place while you drive it as long as they are in good shape.
  13. zmanabba


    X2 on aluminized pipe. I have Hedman headers on my 454 I had a local shop build a 2 1/2 system that included a x crossover with me supplying Magnaflow mufflers. If I ever need to replace it I was going to try the full Magnaflow system. David
  14. I run a 16 PSI on my Summit aluminum radiator. The only change I would make to your system is to add a coolant recovery bottle. Jegs or summit makes a black plastic one that blends in well with the inner fender. David
  15. Sorry that no one has answered this. Yes the brakes will switch over. Hopefully you snagged that rear end and didn't wait for an answer. lol David
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