Jump to content

BuffaloBillPatri

(Non-dues paying)
  • Posts

    74
  • Joined

  • Last visited

    Never

Reputation

0 Neutral

Profile Information

  • Location
    Southern Colorado, USA
  • Occupation
    retired

Profile Fields

  • Brass Member

Recent Profile Visitors

The recent visitors block is disabled and is not being shown to other users.

  1. Thanks for input. My mixture runs about 14.7 +- in both sides at cruze. I have 10.25 CR with .040" squish, flat tops & alum. heads. My convertor is B&M Hole-shot 3000 & my synthetic ATF does get hot 230* or so if I let it slip a bunch. I have oversized alum. radiator with ATF preheater/cooler built in + a seperate cooler in front. So I need to keep above 3000 RPM as much as possible. I'm thinking of getting 214/224* regrind on my cam from Lunati, must stay with 110* LSA & 106* ICL they can keep all or most all of my .510/.525 lift (1.5 rockers) no hardening necessary as it's already been done. Probably couldn't drive it below 4000' altitude in summer as it would have DCR = 8.92 @ sea level. I need more compression than the aprox. 7 DCR that I have at 8500' altitude now. I can barely get rear tires to chirp. Everything up here needs about 50% more air, including me.
  2. Thanks guys, The Howards cam that I'm looking at would gain low & mid-range torque and MPG. .3 higher DCR & 12* less overlap. I plan to use my 1.6 rockers for .528/.534 lift I will loose some HP above 5400 RPM. The Edelbrock 3500 has only a small control panel that stays attached. It lets me control timing & mixture as cells every 1000 RPM & 3 vacuum ranges. No PC port. Has storage for 3 data sets, I use 1 for power settings, & 1 for lean mixture. Unit shows about 4" of vacuum with key on & motor off, due to altitude. I have an O2 sensor in each side. Passenger is used by 3500 & it displays red/green LED real-time. Drivers side has a seperate gauge that I monitor. They generally agree with each other. Dizzy is special for & controlled by 3500 As I have low vacuum, I put on a hydroboost brake unit rebuilt from Astro van. I spent lots of TLC setting up the 12 bolt gears & it's dead quiet. I would hate to tear it down. Next rear tires will be taller so as to turn less RPM on highway. In OD my gear ratio is 3.56 I usually leave it in Auto mode & it acts like a 4 speed auto.
  3. Hello, I haven't been here for quite some time. Here is what I have: 1972 Monte Carlo 4.56 posi, TH400 with GV OD (3.56 in OD) 3000 RPM convertor 355 with forged flat tops .025" in hole with .015 steel shim head gasket, 4 valve reliefs stock rods & crank, balanced Edelbrock ProFlo 3500 EFI MSD ignition 1-5/8" headers & 2.5" dual exhaust, H-pipe Summit aluminum heads (rebranded Brodix IK180) 2.02/1.60 64cc 180cc flow is suppose to be 244/175 cfm @ 28" H2O Good PAC beehive valve springs & Smith pushrods Lunati 50156 retro roller cam & lifters 232/242* @ .050" .510/.525 lift (stock rockers), rated to 6500 RPM + Comp full roller rockers 1.6, lift = .544/.560 SCR = 10.25, DCR @ sea level 8.66, at Denver 5280' about 7.6 I live in Colorado & drive from 5280' to 8500' altitude It SUCKS gas! I'm thinking of putting in about 15* smaller cam for street torque & MPG I have my eye on Howards Cams 113215-08 217/225* @ .050" .495/.500 lift (stock rockers) 108* LSA With my 10.25 CR, this cam would have a very high DCR of 8.95 at sea level, but about 7.9 @ 5280 Comments?
  4. Can't drive it for a while. B&M oil cooler has started leaking pretty bad. I must have cracked it putting on brass hose fittings. Have to remove grill again, Drat! It didn't smoke at 2-3 hours. Didn't start until some where after 1st oil change. Rocker covers baffled, PCV valve is in drivers side, K&N filter is in passenger side. I was getting some blowby fumes out of K&N when motor was hot so I removed 1 of the 2 layers of the foam under the PCV valve, seemed to fix. That was done at about 3 hrs. Gas tank vapor line goes to a new Ford carbon canister & then into rear of intake. Shell Rotella Dino oil. First batch had Rislone in it to free up some stuck roller lifters. Motor had sit for 12 years assembled before starting & valve spring pressure had stuck 5 of the lifter oiling discs in the bottom. Pistons & rings were oiled on assembly. The rings were good quality & recomended for these pistons, just don't remember details & no reciepts. I also added oil on top at piston / cylinder bore interface & turned motor over by hand when I put upgraded Brodix Race Rite 180 aluminum heads on. This was about 2 yrs. ago & before ever firing motor. Pistons are flat top forged, about 10.25 CR. Steel shim head gasket sprayed with gold paint, put on tackey. Thanks BBP
  5. Thanks for ideas Mo, I don't recal the ring brand.
  6. About 4 hrs. on rebuilt 355. Roller Hyd cam Seemed to break-in fine, got hot but not too bad I hope...didn't boil over. short run cycles (15 min) then would let it cool off. After about an hour run time of idle up to about 4K RPM in garage, oil pressure good etc, went driving. Went up in RPMs (5K) full-on throttle, & down full-off throttle using back-pressure. After an hour or so started going up to 6K RPM & back down, all seemed well. I didn't see any smoke for about 3-1/2 hrs of run time. When I assembled piston rings, I didn't orient gaps relative to center of engine, just made gaps about 120* offset from each other. I had read that they walk around the piston pretty fast anyway. Could be an intake valve oil seal? OR a ring problem? Any ideas on how to sort this out? Thanks BBP
  7. Results: WOT 2->3 upshifts at 6300 RPM, 1->2 still at 5500 RPM This is the 1st time that I got up on my 6500 Lunati HR cam, pulls well between 5000 & 6300 RPM. No float noticed of Lunati HR lifters. I have good PAC beehive valve springs, Titanium retainers, Scorpion rockers, & Smith Bros pushrods. Is there any governor spring change that would raise my 1->2 5500 RPM upshifts without raising my 2->3 ? Thanks, BBP
  8. My WOT upshifts can't be delayed by having gear selector in Low or 2nd. This is the way a TH400 works unless it has been modified (I think). I aparrently don't have a shift kit from B&M. Someone on another site suggested the kickdown solonoid. I adjusted the switch & now 1->2 WOT upshifts at 5500 RPM. Unsure about WOT 2->3 as I had my GV OD on auto. More testing this PM. I still want about 6400 RPM WOT upshifts, will that require stiffer governor springs? BBP
  9. My GV works great. I leave it in auto mode. In order to get it 2* up to match my pinion 2* down, I had to beat the hell out of the tunnel. Used a G-force bat-wing crossmember under frame. BBP
  10. http://www.dragracingonline.com/technical/vi_9-bm-1.html Lighter inner weights = higher RPM WOT shifts (except for me) BBP
  11. B&M rebuilt TH400. Part throttle shifts seem fine. I have ground the Governer inner weights as much as possible and still have a seat for the springs. WOT Shifts are unchanged at 4200 RPM? What's going on? Thanks BBP
  12. I loosened up my exhaust rockers by 1/6 turn. So now they are 1-1/3 turn C/W past where clatter goes away, adjusting them with motor idling hot. Reason being: that the exhaust rockers all felt too tight by hand twisting on cold motor. The exhaust valves are more susceptible to burning if they don't contact the seat, so I was a little nervous. The intakes all felt as if they had a little looseness, so I left them at 1-1/2 turns C/W past where clatter goes away. BBP
  13. First posted on Crane's website on January 3, 2005: Hydraulic Roller Lifter Adjustment Recommendation With the increased popularity of hydraulic roller cams, our phone techs are getting more questions on proper adjustment of hydraulic roller valve trains. First, a hydraulic roller tappet weighs more than a hydraulic flat tappet due to the extra mass of the wheel, axle and support struts. This extra mass, as well as the quicker opening rates available to the roller cam design, requires the use of higher valve spring on-the-seat pressures and higher valve spring open pressures to control the increased inertia of the lifter. Higher seat and open pressures can cause pushrods to bend; therefore, use the stiffest pushrods available to assure proper valve action. (This is a “speed secret” that we’ve seen proven in countless dyno tests. We prefer heavy-wall pushrods for just this reason!) Finally, hydraulic roller tappets will perform best with at least one turn of preload on the lifter. This is different from flat-faced lifters which perform best at zero 0 to ½ turn of preload. Tests at Crane R&D have consistently shown best performance (for hydraulic roller cam valve trains) occurs with the preload set at 1 ¼ - 1 ½ turns down from zero lash. This adjustment will maximize power throughout the RPM range and increase the useable top end by 200 - 300 RPM. This preload setting has been confirmed on every engine family we have tested! Check the tutorial in the front of the new Crane Cams Valve Spring Catalog for spring pressure recommendations for various applications. I found this today & set mine again to 1.5 turns. My rockers seem to make less noise & I verified oiling. I have Lunati hyd roller cam, lifters, & beehive valve springs 170/360# BBP
  14. Time will tell if it's going to hold up? I won't drive it in the cold weather though, summer tires etc. I haven't had it above 4000RPM yet. I wonder how much this 10" B&M Holeshot 3000 will slip at 3250RPM, my calculated at 75mph? I have read numbers around 10% The Coan 10" 20310 is suppose to be around 6% I run the ATF through an engine type remote oil filter, then the radiator, then a cooler that's in front of the passenger side of the main radiator. Thanks again, BBP
  15. I think it's good now, much less vibration at least. Maybe normal now. I checked bolt/nut/lock washer balance, all 3 sets were 448 grains. I clocked it another 120* & slowly tightened the nuts as I rotated the crank, about 5 revolutions. Thanks a bunch Tim (Kc8oye) BBP
×
×
  • Create New...