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monte11sec

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  • Location
    Texas, United States
  • Legal Name
    Joe Montgomery
  • Occupation
    Engineer

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  1. Thanks again for all of the responses!!! I have placed the order for the front belts (bench seat). I will worry about the rear seats at a later time.
  2. Three more questions regarding Morris seat belts: 1. The MRS-MCSBGM9BKBS part number seems to be for the front bench seat only. Is there a part number for the back seats from Morris? If not, did any of you guys use a different manufacturer that closely resembles the front seat belts from Morris? 2. Do the Morris seat belts flutter around alot due to wind when one or both windows are down (ie passenger belt when the passenger is not in the car)? 3. I currently have the seat belt not fastened warning on my 72. I assume this no longer works with the Morris belts. Thanks again for all of the response!!! You guys are a huge help.
  3. Thanks McCall72 and stangeba. Do you guys have the part number for the kit you ordered. Do you happen to have pictures of the final installation? I would like to see how it looks. Thanks!!
  4. My seat belts have reached the point where they need to be replaced. I am looking for stock appearing belts that are of course new and meet current safety standards. Any recommendations? Thanks
  5. I am going to post this question on this post since it is basically the same topic. I need to replace a couple of body trim molding clips for the trim pieces at the top of the quarter panel that run just below the Monte Carlo badges on each side of the car. OPGI has three part numbers: A10220 (3/4"), A10318 (5/16"), and A22985 (1/2"). Since these are the only dimensions they list for these pieces I need to know if these measurements are referring to the width of the trim piece that these tabs slide into. I know, silly question but I want to be sure. It appears the inner width of the trim is approximately 1/2". Thanks!!!
  6. Bruce, Do you happen to have a picture of what these clip(s) look like when they are attached to the car (without the trim piece in place)? My car does not have these clips or holes for the clips to attach to.
  7. It does not appear that the 1972 grilles are available (opgi, parts inc, etc.). Does anybody know of a person or company that can CORRECTLY restore these grills? If so, how much does it usually cost?
  8. I am referring to the piece just behind the rear tires. There are three (maybe four...can't remember) screws that hold it to the car at the very bottom of the quarter panel but is there supposed to be anything (clips, tape, etc.) that holds it to the car at the top of the trim piece?
  9. That suspension and chassis look very dialed in. I agree with Bill, both tires are pretty even and that thing is hooking with a 1.48 60'.
  10. I bought a fuel tank from Original Parts Group (described as 20-gallon/3 vent w/EEC) and had a sump welded to it. The two outer vents were connected back to the original vent connections and the center vent was converted to a -8AN return. I also bought the vented gas cap that OPG sells. The tank and the gas cap can be found at the links below: /// FUEL TANK /// http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?topcatid...&yearrange= /// VENTED GAS CAP /// http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?topcatid...&yearrange= I am noticing that I smell gas (after driving the car for a while) if I fill the car beyond 1/2 full. I don't see any signs of fuel leakage around the tank, lines, etc. I think that the problem may have something to do with using a vented gas cap on a vented tank. I have been reading that the rule of thumb is to use a non-vented fuel cap on a vented tank or vice-versa. I have also read that a EEC system will not function correctly if a vented cap is used. I have noticed that fuel will spill out of the vent hoses if I remove the vent hoses from the tank. Should fuel be making it into the vent lines that run towards the back seats? Now to my question........I am trying to find a non-vented fuel cap that will fit the tank that I bought but OPG only sells the vented version. I checked Year-One as well but I couldn't find one either. I would use the cap that came off of the stock fuel tank but it does not fit the aftermarket tank. Has anybody ever run into this problem? Any suggestions on non-vented gas caps? Thanks.
  11. "I personally have better things to spend 20,30k on than a car thats only worth 15k" I completely agree with this statement. I love my car but I am not willing to part with that kind of money for a car that will never give me that money back. I just want the car to have a finish that looks as good as a new car factory paint job (less orange peel though) and I want the car to come back as straight as it already is. An most importantly, I want to drive this thing. Basically, I am still looking for shops that are more in my price range but offer the quality of work that I am looking for. I am absolutely drawing the line at $12,000 but I would love to find someone to do the job for $8,000 to $10,000.
  12. Yeah, my plan is to go to this event called Cars and Coffee in Dallas this Sunday and talk to some of the people there. I hope I can find some new shops that way. If not then I guess I will have to save a little more money and pay the $20,000 once I have it. I ultimately want the car done right but I hope I can have it done right for less than $20,000.
  13. Don't get me wrong, I completely understand the time and effort that goes into restoring a car and I would never pretend to be capable of, or have the desire to spend the time needed to prep the car to perfection. My wife would divorce me if I spent that kind of time restoring my car. All I am asking is whether or not it is possible to get my car done for around $10,000 - $12,000? This car is more of a driver than a show winner (if I wanted a show winner than this would be a frame off restoration). I want to take it to the occasional cruise night, make the occasional pass down the 1320, and be proud to drive it on the weekends. The car is currently very straight but the paint is really fading. I just personally can't see myself spending $20,000 to $30,000 to have this car repainted and I don't want to get rid of it because I have owned it since 1987. Maybe I would spend that kind of money if this was a low mileage fully loaded 70-71 Monte Carlo SS but it isn't.
  14. 7tonemonte: $10,000 is what I was expecting to pay and two of the shops have already told me that $20,000 is essentially a starting point and that it could be more expensive once they get into the car. There is no way I can afford to spend $20,000 or more on this car. All I want is a very clean driver that I would be proud to bring to a car show every now and then. I am not looking to have a show winner but I also want the paint to come back without flaws and I would like the body gaps to be a little tighter. I would think that I should be able to get that for $10,000 - $12,000.
  15. Two out of the three shops I looked at are very well known for their work so I know that the car would come back looking great but it still makes me very nervous spending $20,000 with there still being the possibility that the price could get higher than that if they find additional problems. I don't understand how people afford paying 20 grand and higher for paint work. Are they taking out loans to get their cars painted? How much does a frame off restoration go for....$50,000 and higher? I was totally prepared to pay $10,000 to $13,000 but nothing more. I'm afraid to wait any longer since the price will probably go up to $25,000 or $30,000 soon (the price of a brand new Mustang GT). I guess I'll take Reds advice and keep looking. I wonder if not having the car totally disassembled could bring the price down. One of the shops said that the car does not look like it needs to come down to bare metal and that he may be able to make the final price more affordable.
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