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monte11sec

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Everything posted by monte11sec

  1. Thanks again for all of the responses!!! I have placed the order for the front belts (bench seat). I will worry about the rear seats at a later time.
  2. Three more questions regarding Morris seat belts: 1. The MRS-MCSBGM9BKBS part number seems to be for the front bench seat only. Is there a part number for the back seats from Morris? If not, did any of you guys use a different manufacturer that closely resembles the front seat belts from Morris? 2. Do the Morris seat belts flutter around alot due to wind when one or both windows are down (ie passenger belt when the passenger is not in the car)? 3. I currently have the seat belt not fastened warning on my 72. I assume this no longer works with the Morris belts. Thanks again for all of the response!!! You guys are a huge help.
  3. Thanks McCall72 and stangeba. Do you guys have the part number for the kit you ordered. Do you happen to have pictures of the final installation? I would like to see how it looks. Thanks!!
  4. My seat belts have reached the point where they need to be replaced. I am looking for stock appearing belts that are of course new and meet current safety standards. Any recommendations? Thanks
  5. That suspension and chassis look very dialed in. I agree with Bill, both tires are pretty even and that thing is hooking with a 1.48 60'.
  6. I bought a fuel tank from Original Parts Group (described as 20-gallon/3 vent w/EEC) and had a sump welded to it. The two outer vents were connected back to the original vent connections and the center vent was converted to a -8AN return. I also bought the vented gas cap that OPG sells. The tank and the gas cap can be found at the links below: /// FUEL TANK /// http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?topcatid...&yearrange= /// VENTED GAS CAP /// http://www.opgi.com/product.asp?topcatid...&yearrange= I am noticing that I smell gas (after driving the car for a while) if I fill the car beyond 1/2 full. I don't see any signs of fuel leakage around the tank, lines, etc. I think that the problem may have something to do with using a vented gas cap on a vented tank. I have been reading that the rule of thumb is to use a non-vented fuel cap on a vented tank or vice-versa. I have also read that a EEC system will not function correctly if a vented cap is used. I have noticed that fuel will spill out of the vent hoses if I remove the vent hoses from the tank. Should fuel be making it into the vent lines that run towards the back seats? Now to my question........I am trying to find a non-vented fuel cap that will fit the tank that I bought but OPG only sells the vented version. I checked Year-One as well but I couldn't find one either. I would use the cap that came off of the stock fuel tank but it does not fit the aftermarket tank. Has anybody ever run into this problem? Any suggestions on non-vented gas caps? Thanks.
  7. "I personally have better things to spend 20,30k on than a car thats only worth 15k" I completely agree with this statement. I love my car but I am not willing to part with that kind of money for a car that will never give me that money back. I just want the car to have a finish that looks as good as a new car factory paint job (less orange peel though) and I want the car to come back as straight as it already is. An most importantly, I want to drive this thing. Basically, I am still looking for shops that are more in my price range but offer the quality of work that I am looking for. I am absolutely drawing the line at $12,000 but I would love to find someone to do the job for $8,000 to $10,000.
  8. Yeah, my plan is to go to this event called Cars and Coffee in Dallas this Sunday and talk to some of the people there. I hope I can find some new shops that way. If not then I guess I will have to save a little more money and pay the $20,000 once I have it. I ultimately want the car done right but I hope I can have it done right for less than $20,000.
  9. Don't get me wrong, I completely understand the time and effort that goes into restoring a car and I would never pretend to be capable of, or have the desire to spend the time needed to prep the car to perfection. My wife would divorce me if I spent that kind of time restoring my car. All I am asking is whether or not it is possible to get my car done for around $10,000 - $12,000? This car is more of a driver than a show winner (if I wanted a show winner than this would be a frame off restoration). I want to take it to the occasional cruise night, make the occasional pass down the 1320, and be proud to drive it on the weekends. The car is currently very straight but the paint is really fading. I just personally can't see myself spending $20,000 to $30,000 to have this car repainted and I don't want to get rid of it because I have owned it since 1987. Maybe I would spend that kind of money if this was a low mileage fully loaded 70-71 Monte Carlo SS but it isn't.
  10. 7tonemonte: $10,000 is what I was expecting to pay and two of the shops have already told me that $20,000 is essentially a starting point and that it could be more expensive once they get into the car. There is no way I can afford to spend $20,000 or more on this car. All I want is a very clean driver that I would be proud to bring to a car show every now and then. I am not looking to have a show winner but I also want the paint to come back without flaws and I would like the body gaps to be a little tighter. I would think that I should be able to get that for $10,000 - $12,000.
  11. Two out of the three shops I looked at are very well known for their work so I know that the car would come back looking great but it still makes me very nervous spending $20,000 with there still being the possibility that the price could get higher than that if they find additional problems. I don't understand how people afford paying 20 grand and higher for paint work. Are they taking out loans to get their cars painted? How much does a frame off restoration go for....$50,000 and higher? I was totally prepared to pay $10,000 to $13,000 but nothing more. I'm afraid to wait any longer since the price will probably go up to $25,000 or $30,000 soon (the price of a brand new Mustang GT). I guess I'll take Reds advice and keep looking. I wonder if not having the car totally disassembled could bring the price down. One of the shops said that the car does not look like it needs to come down to bare metal and that he may be able to make the final price more affordable.
  12. I know that this topic has been brought up before but I have to bring it up again. I am looking for a shop (in Dallas Texas) to repaint my 72 Monte Carlo which would include taking the car down to bare metal, doing door jams, repair any minor metal damage that they might find and replace the vinyl top. I'm assuming that the hood, fenders, doors, and trunk lid will come off. I do not want a frame off restoration. I brought the car to several shops about 1.5 to 2 years ago and got quoted $10,000 for this kind of work. Well, I put the job off temporarily but I am ready to do it now. The only problem is I brought the car back to the same shops for another quote and now I am getting quoted $20,000. What is the deal? The car has not gotten any worse, each shop has complimented me on how straight the car is, but the price has doubled. I realize this kind of work takes many hours to do and that these shops are using quality materials but $20,000 is a very hard pill to swallow. I am also being told that this is the starting price and it could go up depending on any unexpected things they find once they strip the car. Is $20,000 the norm now? If so, I can't afford to get this car redone the way I want. Any suggestions? What is it costing other 1st gen. members to have their Monte Carlos done and how much work was done for the price you paid?
  13. I know this is a bit off of the original topic but Dan is right, the TH2004R must be built correctly to stand up to the torque of a big block (or a seriously built turbo V6 for that matter). The Buick guys have used the TH2004R in 9 and 10 second Grand Nationals for years without problems. There are a hand full of builders that can really build a very durable TH2004R but it will cost quite a bit depending on the power level you want one of these transmissions to hold up to. I have read that many of these builders recommend going to billet input shafts and intermediate drums once the power level exceeds 400 HP and/or 400 lb/ft of torque. I'm sure many people have gotten away with using hardened parts instead of billet but I wonder if it is only a matter of time before a failure occurs. The TH400 can definitely be built to hold up to more power than a TH2004R and I have never heard of someone actually breaking a GV (they are basically bullet proof) but I think the price difference will be minimal between a seriously built TH2004R and a very well built TH400 with a GV on the back. I have read that several Buick guys have gone to TH400's after breaking a few TH2004R's but I think these are very low 9 second to high 8 second machines. I think the limit for a TH2004R is about 800 HP or mid to high 9's.
  14. Greg, I did this very same tranny swap and I had to purchase a different drive shaft (the original was going to be too short). I just took the necessary measurements and ordered a new driveshaft from Strange Engineering. I'll say this, as long as the TH2004R is built correctly, you're going to love it. It will cause the car to accelerate out of the gate harder due to the steeper 1st gear ratio (2.74 vs 2.48), it takes less power to turn the TH2004R than it does the TH400, the gear spread is still tight (as opposed to the TH700R4), and the highway cruising is much better. I'm running a 12 bolt with 3.73 gears and it made the car much more fun to drive on the highway and I am no longer getting passed by 18 wheelers while turning 3000 RPM at 60mph.
  15. Great job Dave!!! I really enjoyed watching the videos and am looking forward to seeing the videos of the Monte running down the track once you get it back. By the way, how much does your Chevelle weigh?
  16. Way to go Mike!!! Running mid 11's with a stock steel hood, stock 8" rally rims, and basically a full weight Monte. If that's not a sleeper, I don't know what is (even though I'm sure the cars idle and exhaust note take away from the sleeper image somewhat). It's nice that you gave your local dragstrip a reminder of what our Montes are capable of. Also, I would be willing to bet that you are VERY close to 4000 lbs. My 72 is very similar to yours (stock hood, rally rims, bench seat, big block) and it weighs in at 3960 with me in it and 3780 without me in it.
  17. Mine weighs 3880lbs and the race weight is 4030lbs with me on board (both measurements were taken at the track). I wish my car weighed 2xxxlbs. I would be pulling some serious 1/4 mile times!!!!
  18. Bill (502ci), Did you drill the holes into your frame where the fuel pump mounting plate bolts up or are those pre-existing holes in the frame?
  19. What would be considered an adequate return line for the A1000? I assume that a -8 is adequate when using the Aeromotive 13204 regulator. Should the Aeromotive be capable of supplying enough fuel for a stock ZZ502 with a 150-250 shot of nitrous. My plans are to have one of the regulator output ports supply fuel to the carb and the other regulator output port supply fuel to the N2O fuel solenoid. I only plan on using the smallest jets in the NOS kit but I would like to know if the pump is up to the task if for some reason I decide to step up the jet sizes. I DO NOT want to have a fuel system dedicated to the nitrous if I can avoid it.
  20. You're not kidding Allan, those are some great pictures. That is the kind of detail I was looking for. Thanks Bill!!
  21. First off, I want to thank everybody for welcoming me to this site. I have been visiting this site for years now but I finally decided to join. As far as my fuel system goes, I will be adding the following: * -10 braided line from the sump to an Aeromotive filter * Aeromotive filter attached to Aeromotive 1000 * -10 braided line from fuel pump to return style regulator * -8 braided return line * -6 braided line from regulator to carb * -6 braided line from regulator to N2O fuel solenoid Bill, how did you mount your fuel pump to your car? Is there a mounting plate that the pump is mounted to or is it just mounted to the trunk pan? Also, how does your pump perform when the fuel tank is below 1/2 full? I am asking this because the pump is mounted above the fuel tank.
  22. I am running an 850 Quick Fuel Technology carb with vacuum secondary. The nitrous system is an NOS Cheater system and I will be using the smallest jets in the kit which should give the engine approximately 125-150 extra horsepower. I don't currently have a timing retard controller but I am thinking about buying one as well as a FPS (for nitrous shutdown during low fuel pressure) and a nitrous "window" controller to allow the nitrous solenoids to engage between 3000-6000 RPM. I am also monitoring A/F ratio with a Dynojet Wideband commander system, which comes with an analog A/F gauge, and I am monitoring fuel pressure with an electric fuel pressure gauge. Both gauges will be mounted on the A-pillar. I think that should be enough safe guards so that the 502 will still live a long life even if something unexpected happens.
  23. This question is actually for member "502ci" (since his Monte has a very similar setup to mine) but all comments/suggestions are certainly welcome. I have a 72 Monte with a ZZ502 and I am currently upgrading the fuel system for nitrous. I have a new fuel tank that was recently sumped and I plan on using the Aeromotive 1000 fuel pump since it seems to be up to the task of feeding a 502 with nitrous. However, before I make a final decision, I need the following questions answered: * Does this pump have overheating issues when used during daily driving? * Is the Aeromotive Billet Fuel Pump Speed Controller (P/N 16302) really needed for a daily driver?
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