Heff

If you would be interested in a hydraulic roller, I have a custom stick designed by Chris Straub I would let go cheap. I originally was going to put it in my 402 but changed gears after buying it and decided to go 496, and a bigger cam from him.

Agree with Bill, my 275/60-15’s are on 8" rally's with 5" back space. They would defiantly rub with only 4" back space on a standard width 12 bolt

I WANT ONE!! Nice job Dave that's just plain cool.

Not 100% sure but I think the bracket is different for a 350 vs 400 trans. maybe that it?

Ordered detent shift plate from Shiftworks for the 1-2 power shift.

Congrats on the find Dennis, has to be a great feeling.

I just did some research on this for a friend of mines 69 4 speed Camaro (I know not a Monte, but GM) acording to the Camaro gurus the bellhousing was as cast but had so much over spray you would have thought they were meant to be orange. Not sure if this would hold true on our cars or not? altho another guy swears his Camaro is an untouched original with low miles and said it was all orange? I guess the thought was the bellhousing on the 4 speed cars were bolted to the engine prior to paint and it depended on who was painting that day.

Ordered new steel inner fenders and trensmission lines from Leo

"after" http://www.firstgenmc.com/photopost/data/601/photo_2_1_.JPG couldn't get the pic to show up?

Did some port work on my exhaust manifolds "before"

The 265's have the smaller 2.190 intake valves, but I will ask him next time we talk. I will be taking it apart, so now would be the time. Thanks for the heads up.

Now all I have to do is convince my wife that "AFR 265" is a car guy code for Almost Free Refurbished $265.00, besides new kitchen countertops are way overrated and do not add any HP

Mike, they do offer it but I went with the as cast version. Chris did not think it would be worth the extra coin in my case due to the small displacement and stroke of the 402. I was a little concerned about the 109 cc chamber upping my compression too much but it should be ok with the aluminum heads. Based on your sig picture this is probably a dumb question but were you happy with the cam from Chris? Mine will obviously be different than yours, just wanted to here some first hand feedback.

The heads were shaved .005 just to square them up Original valves just touched up as well as the seats, new viton valve seals Factory valve covers, tried two different PVC valves both new The car would never idle right and always seemed like it had a vacuum leak. Checked all the lines multiple times, even replaced the intake gasket thinking maybe leaking there, and also possibly causing my oil consumption but didn't help. It's a moot point now because I pulled the motor earlier today, and pulled the trigger on the new AFR 265's Straub custom hyd roller Eddy performer rpm intake and quick fuel 850carb. I'm finally getting excited about this car again, it was just so frustrating the last couple years, it got to the point that every time I took it out for a cruise it would just make me mad and I just didn't drive It much. Hopefully I'll be cruising it this summer with a big smile on face again.

Mike that is an option as well, I could probably build a 496 short block for about the same price as the AFR's and complete roller package? I don't know how far my heads would let me go but I could keep that stock look and still produce a bunch more torque. Tell me more about the Qjet tune and oil consumption?

If I do a different engine I would do a 496 you may be right on the cam timming it pulls pretty good up top just no bottom? maybe needed advanced? I'll know more once it's tore down. Question, what would you consider to be good HP/TQ numbers for a fun street car that weighs 2 ton. trying to get an idea on what I should be shooting for?

Long story... but here goes I rebuilt my 402 2 years ago and have never been happy with it. bored .030 over, mains line bored & honed, .010/.010 on the crank reconditioned rods, ARP rod main and head bolts, complete assy balanced with a set of custom forged pistons from Diamond 41cc dome, slightly worked over heads (820's) original intake, rebuilt quadrajet and a Summit 1302 cam 228/238 @.05 286/296 advertised .540 lift on 114 LSA. my original intent was to keep it looking stock but have more power. Rebuilt TH400 with 10" converter stalls around 2800-3000, and a 3.55 posi 12 bolt. a year and a half later the motor is being pulled due to rings not seating correctly (I think? burning oil) anyways This combo never ran like I thought it would, seems like a real slug on the bottom end, could never get the dam Q-jet to idle or pull real hard, just doesn't seem like Big Block power under the hood. so... here's the question pull that motor, put it on a stand and start over with a 496 build, or new AFR heads, Eddy air gap intake, new Quick-fuel carb and a HR custom cam from Chris Straub? It’s about half the cost to basically do the top end kit for my 402 from Chris than it would be to do a complete 496 with the same top end kit, and I think that if I ever got the more cubes bug down the road I could use the same parts on a new 496 short block? This is a street driven car but I want more out of it of course, and I was surprised at the numbers Chris said I could get out of this little 408 in a VERY streetable package and way more than it has now. I know you guys have a lot more experience with engine combos and builds than I do so any thoughts or advice would be appreciated.

interesting I may look into it down the line.

Thanks Mark I may call summit and see what they say, the adjustable one's I've looked at read like they only adjust for how much they advance, buy i should talk to some one who knows for sure. Everything I've been reading on this tells me I want to run the vacuum advance for a street driven car per Andreas reply, but for now I think I will leave it the way it is until I get the front clip finished up and can actually drive it down the road and see what it does. My guess is that I'll end up putting a smaller cam in it, I was just hoping I could make it work the way it is. This was one of those project cars that I bought from a guy who bought it from a guy, and has been sitting for 15 years, and I was told "I don't think the motor will run" but I thought to myself it's a sbc these things will run upside down under water, so once I got the correct style spark plugs in it, got rid of the resistor wire they had running to the HEI, and took off the massive 750 double pumper that was almost seized up she fired right up with 60psi oil pressure, now I'm just trying to get it fine tuned.

ok I'm working on a 327 sbc that came in a project car I'm working on for my son. I don't know alot about the internals other than it has domed pistons from looking into #1 plug hole, double hump heads, a fairly large solid cam of some sort, roller rockers, edelbrock torquer intake, headers, HEI, and a 600 cfm summit carb. My problem is now that I'm able to get it to idle down with the new carb, I can't get the vacuum advance to work because of the low vacuum (about 7" at idle). I put a curve kit in the distributor, and set my initial at 16 with all in around 35. My question is can i just run it this way with no vacuum advance hooked up?

71 402 with air side mount

I went with the Pertronix 111, hides under the stock cap has a rev limiter function, and works real well. simple to install also, but as mentioned before no matter what you decide you'll need to get 12 volts to an electronic ignition. I traced my resistor wire back to the plug on the fire wall and replaced it with a 12 gage wire.