Grapejuice1998

Isn't there a company that rebuilds all three instruments to factory spec? (tach, speedo, clock) I could have sworn I browsed such a website recently, but I'll be darned if I can find it.

So the other day my tach decided not to tach out, lol. It'll go up to about 3k and hang right there. Get below 3k and it reads again. Any ideas?

This is my first BBC, but the spark plugs were relatively unusual. They had the 13/16 base, but the were extended tip R44XLS. These were the only style of plug that would fit. How do I find out for sure which heads are on it?

Sorry, there was an attachment at one time. Here is the graph of the 3 sets of curve springs.

While I knew quite a bit of it, some of it I didn't, so all of it was helpful and appreciated. I kinda thought the title stated the motor size, but it's mostly stock. It has Hooker headers and an Edelbrock intake (still has a QJ though), but as far as I know, it's otherwise stock. I daily drive it for the most part (N. Texas) and I do like to get on it from time to time. The car was really running badly when I got it earlier this year, so I set about fixing things as I found them. I went to put a timing light on it recently, an found it had NO timing marker, or scale. It had the required hash mark on the balancer, but nothing to reference the timing off of. Nothing. Can you beat that?! Anyway, I marked the distributor base with a sharpie and advanced it a bit and it ran a whole lot better, which led me to a complete distributor rebuild and the installation of a proper timing pointer. All of that is done now, so I thought I'd get some timing advice from people who have already been there and done that. I could have looked up the base stats online, but all that would have given me was a starting point. I was hoping for (and got) some base and total timing numbers to try now. The adjustable advance instructions said to go all the way clockwise to start with, so that's where it is now. The advance curve tables and associated springs, are each very different in how much total timing comes in and how quickly. Take a look at that attachment, please. Thank you so much for taking the time to explain in such detail. I truly appreciate the effort.

*crickets*

Thanks Rock!

No doubt! The old Hookers (lol) on there now are right up against the proportioning valve. I automatically thought of moving it up on top of the frame. So the 2455 clears the steering shaft ok?

Doesn't it look as though there was part of that taped up wiring (about 2 o'clock) that used to plug into where that black plastic filler plug is now (12 o'clock)? Is that the difference between an internal and external regulator alternator?

Recently I was swapping out my alternator and noticed it has some wort of wiring conversion, or deletion. What's happening here and why? Thanks!

I have just completed a rebuild of my hei distributor and have a couple of questions. First, base/initial timing. Where do I need to be on that? Next, it has 3 different sets of springs, so it will advance in 3 different curves. (see: sideways attachment) Which curve works best for a mostly stock 454? Last, it also has an adjustable vacuum advance. The instructions say to turn it all the way clockwise to start with. How do I go about the fine adjustment? Thanks!

I have just completed a rebuild of my hei distributor and have a couple of questions. First, base/initial timing. Where do I need to be on that? Next, it has 3 different sets of springs, so it will advance in 3 different curves. (see: attachment) Last, it also has an adjustable vacuum advance. The instructions say to turn it all the way clockwise to start with. How do I go about the fine adjustment? Thanks!

What's the best fitting header out there? Mine has a set of ratty looking Hookers on it right now. They were painted silver, along with the entire exhaust at one time, so now they are flaking and rusting. The drivers side was dinged up severely too, so it would clear the steering shaft. The drivers side also hangs too low, so it's the first thing to hit if you happen to bottom out. Surely someone makes a decent fitting header now?

I ended up with a new motor from NAPA, but I plan to go back and open up the Delco to see if it just needs a good cleaning. Thanks you for the help.

Looks like my drivers side power window motor decided to retire today. I did a little trouble shooting and checking, so I know for sure the motor is getting power from the switch. My question is, are these readily available anywhere and/or is there someone who rebuilds them? I really want to get this fixed as quickly as possible though, as it's definitely windows down temperature here in Dallas right now. Thanks!

I would love to hear more about the GV o/d installation. Do you have a thread about it?

I pretty much have no other choice at this point. I will start with a carb rebuild, then I'll work on the distributor. I just wish I had a spare carb to swap on it first.

The car had the same problem before I changed out everything. I did verify that the fuel lines aren't kinked though. The carb is the only other unchanged item in the entire fuel system.

It's worth a look. I had planned to blueprint the distributor anyway. Thanks!

It's brand new mechanical and the proper p/n for the car. It was doing this before I swapped pumps though.

It sure sounds like 4k though! After talking with a fellow who owns a 69 Chevelle SS, he said his tachs about 3,800 @ 70 with 3.73's.

When I got this car several weeks back I knew about the fuel system problem and thought, yah, no problem. I can fix that. Well, I guess I can't. At least, not without the help of someone more knowledgeable than myself. Here's the deal: When you go w.o.t., it will start to run pretty hard and then it will act like it's run out of gas and just fall over on it's face. Here's a short video of the bog out. What I have done, so far: The fuel system is mostly new. Everything has been replaced, except the carburetor (QJ). This includes a new tank, which was a single line in/out at the time. It was suggested that perhaps that was the problem, so I bought a dual line pickup and pump and installed all new fuel lines (except the metal ones, which I blew out with an air hose). I also tried removing the paper filter in the carb, as well as running without a gas cap (the new tank doesn't have vents like the old one did). As I said, the only piece that hasn't been changed, out is the carb. A local builder said there's nothing wrong with it though. Has anyone ever seen this type of thing happen due to a carb problem? If so, does anyone here build a good QJ, or is there a better option out there? Thanks y'all. This is really starting to get to me. I really want this thing to run like a 454 should!!

It was 3/8 line. The paper filter is still in there though.

The speedometer works. I just verified it's accuracy with my gps app.