70Turbo-Fire

Looking for a 7 inch OEM spare tire J-bolt for YH rally wheel (left side of pic). Right side is for 6" steel wheel. Thanks

Thanks...gold or dark gold would be idea. I will keep them in mind just in case....looks like they are currently out of stock and expected to be replenished in September.

I'm looking for nice NOS or used set (front and rear pairs) of Gold OEM Bowtie Floor Mats. Thanks.

I would recommend: HF Enterprises - Vintage Automotive Radio & Clock Repair 92 Miller Ave. Floor 2 Elmwood Park, NJ 07407 hf_enterprises@att.net Howard Foulds (973)-800-4565

Thank you to everyone for your responses... I'm leaning towards drilling the grommet hole at the "dimple" spot above the accelerator cable which is same for Flint and Baltimore. The assembly manual appears to confirm this, although it is hard to read. I considered using an existing hole for just the wire, but would hate remove the grommet and not utilize it. I would be very appreciative if anybody with a 70 Monte (Van Nuys build) could confirm where their tach wire is routed. The wire wire - harness above the accelerator cable is the TH400 kickdown switch harness (RPO M40).

Can anybody with a 70 Monte (Van Nuys build) with the U14 gauge cluster please tell me where the brown tach wire/grommet should go through the firewall? I'm upgrading from warning lights to the U14 gauge cluster and just want to confirm the firewall location before I start drilling. I was able to confirm the same location above the accelerator cable for a 70 Flint and 71 Baltimore, however, a friend's 70 Chevelle (Arlington build) uses a different hole. See below pics. Thanks, Kurt

Concur....Below are pics of mine (early 70 with "Ven-ted" on the bottom 3842698 - Stant cap?).....I used a paper clip to test the spring tension of the relief valve and found it to give with no obstructions. Perhaps the spring tension might be too much? Maybe I'll try to find another OEM cap and test it out.....or find an NOS 3931449 (with "Ven-ted" on the top), which replaced the 3842698.

My 70SS was built in Flint and there is no gas tank vent. As a result positive pressure builds up in the tank and when I remove the cap, it almost pops out of my hand as a gust of gas pressure is released and you can actually see the tank and filler neck contract. I have heard some folks drilled tiny holes in their gas cap to relieve the pressure, but I'm not keen on that idea. Has anyone else experienced the same issue? If so, how did you correct it?

Bruce / Aaron, Thanks for your responses....I suspected the burlap was owner installed, but wondered if the current aftermarket "mesh" package trays were intending to appear or resemble what I thought was a factory OEM package tray for AM/FM Stereo.

I removed a two speaker package from my 70 that has a factory AM/FM Stereo installed. Does anyone know if the black (now faded) burlap fabric was OEM and originally glued to the cardboard tray, or did a previous owner add it to the package tray? Please see attached pictures. r, Kurt