alex's72fgmc

An amp meter I would not recommend but an amp clamp that is hooked up to a scope would be best. Odds are the blower motor is going bad causing a high amp draw to spin it. As for the blower motor resistor use a ohm meter and check resistance on each leg of the circuits. Low speed should have the most resistance and high speed should have the lowest. As for the melting of the connector that is a result of high current (amps) flow. And before anyone wishes to flame me yes resistance can melt stuff as well but with a new connector and resistor makes it doubtful. The blower motors on most cars are on a 30 amp circuit but typically see no more than 20 amps when blower is running but spikes to 28 +amps on start up on high speed.

Guess it's good I popped back in here. Hope the decoder can come to fruition.

Unfortunately I don't have pics But it is straight forward.

Use a come a long on the inside supported by a metal 2x4 tubing and pull till it is back into positon. You will have to pull from the middle like before and slowly past the original location as there will be flex back.

keep in mind the dial torque wrench will show the rotational torque needed to turn the assembly i have seen sheets with 2 foot pounds same as 24 inch pounds so go with what is in your kit. when reading the dial just read when turning slowly. also realize this is the rotational torque only not the torque needed to crush the crush sleeve and pinion nut to where you get the rotational torque spec.

no problem on the tail panel had to use up the stuff i dont need. didnt you get the floor pan to for the trunk?

dont forget to unscrew the gear selector cable from the steering columb before dropping the colume its a small phillips head screw. slide out the clip with cable and tape to dash.

custom cable from the company you got it from...

its a 2.73 :1 ratio rear end look in the tech info section for the rear axle decoding info i wrote up a while back covers all firsst gen montes alex