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Everything posted by alex's72fgmc

  1. Unfortunately I don't have pics But it is straight forward.
  2. Use a come a long on the inside supported by a metal 2x4 tubing and pull till it is back into positon. You will have to pull from the middle like before and slowly past the original location as there will be flex back.
  3. keep in mind the dial torque wrench will show the rotational torque needed to turn the assembly i have seen sheets with 2 foot pounds same as 24 inch pounds so go with what is in your kit. when reading the dial just read when turning slowly. also realize this is the rotational torque only not the torque needed to crush the crush sleeve and pinion nut to where you get the rotational torque spec.
  4. no problem on the tail panel had to use up the stuff i dont need. didnt you get the floor pan to for the trunk?
  5. dont forget to unscrew the gear selector cable from the steering columb before dropping the colume its a small phillips head screw. slide out the clip with cable and tape to dash.
  6. custom cable from the company you got it from...
  7. its a 2.73 :1 ratio rear end look in the tech info section for the rear axle decoding info i wrote up a while back covers all firsst gen montes alex
  8. you want a set of patch panels i have a set that were made a while back will sell them for $250.00 these are hand made by a club member a while back and they go up to the body line and are well made. call me @ 217 480 7622 alex
  9. first off did you remember the copper washers for the brake hoses to calipers and the line t at the rear axle? Double flare brake lines like what was mentioned earlier? Bench bleed master cylinder with a pair of lines bent back into the resevoir before install and then gravity bleed the system? did you start bleeding them from the pass side rear then drivers side rear, pass side front to drivers side front? is it possible you got a power brake m/c instead of a manual brake m/c? make sure all brake lines are tight? also the proportioning valve is it the right type for manual br
  10. well if the center link did that i would look at the idler arm to see if it is bad otherwise the tie rods inner and outer as they could be whats causing your issue
  11. this case i would say to but a posi unit and upgrade while your at it. it is not worth saving with that much damage. but if you want to save it take it to a good machine shop and have them build up the bearing area with weld "Ni-99 weld wire i believe" and then they will machine it back down to spec. plan on spending about 150-200 bucks. most likely it will be less but error on the high side in this case.
  12. a welding supply store, lowes, home depot, harbor freight, summit racing website. typically any place that sells or leases gas cylinders sells the welders
  13. on the carrier bearings use tin snips to cut the cage off and then use the bearing splitter to pull the rest of the bearing off utilizing a peice of 1/4 in plate steel to sit on the snout of the carrier. another option is to use a axle bearing puller on the bearing and slide hammer it off.
  14. fyi, one thing i learned was to take a cylinder hone and hone out a new bearing to use for shim testing "just enough to slide on fairly easily but not loose then when you have the right shim in put on the new unmodified bearing.
  15. also sand away from the edges and light pressure near the edges otherwise you will cut right through also change directions when sanding. if sanding like this / then sand like this \ criss crossing each other to prevent ridges and waves in the paint finish. since your new to wet sanding start with 1500 till you are comfortable this will prevent you from cutting through the paint while you learn.
  16. first and reverse share the same gear set and in the tranny there are little metal balls that float in certain spots of the fluid passages if they get stuck from debris or what not flowing through the passages this could cause this issue as well as a shift plate gasket that is damaged or the shift manifold is warped or bad. take the tranny to a shop. by any chance did you smell the trans fuild when you got it if so did it smell burnt this could be the issue your dealing with. "dont quote me on this" but as far as i know for setting the pressure for the tranny the 200r4 you dont set its a
  17. this is truely heart breaking he is and always will be a great guy/ father and life partner of his wife mitzi. the jokes will be missed by him but will live on through the rest of us here on the boards. He may have passed on but will live forever here with us godspeed bird you will be missed but never forgotten. best wishes and many fond memories to your family. hope they have a computer up there with plenty of bannana smilies alex
  18. tim did you sand away the remaining lead from the window channel? if not that will keep happening. also what bruce said is true it is a major structural component. also with the bondo its effectivness depends on the mix. also i would recommend evercoat body filler or for fiber glass use tiger hair or kitty hair fiberglass or fiberglass filler. Alex
  19. I bought a lincoln 110 welder at menards "big box store lol" and have had no problems with it for the last 4.5 years and 9 cars i have worked on. works great. one bit of advise buy the 12 lbs rolls of L56 mig wire you get more wire use for your money as you loose 6 feet of wire when you have to change rolls. alex
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