alex's72fgmc

An amp meter I would not recommend but an amp clamp that is hooked up to a scope would be best. Odds are the blower motor is going bad causing a high amp draw to spin it. As for the blower motor resistor use a ohm meter and check resistance on each leg of the circuits. Low speed should have the most resistance and high speed should have the lowest. As for the melting of the connector that is a result of high current (amps) flow. And before anyone wishes to flame me yes resistance can melt stuff as well but with a new connector and resistor makes it doubtful. The blower motors on most cars are on a 30 amp circuit but typically see no more than 20 amps when blower is running but spikes to 28 +amps on start up on high speed.

Guess it's good I popped back in here. Hope the decoder can come to fruition.

Unfortunately I don't have pics But it is straight forward.

Use a come a long on the inside supported by a metal 2x4 tubing and pull till it is back into positon. You will have to pull from the middle like before and slowly past the original location as there will be flex back.

keep in mind the dial torque wrench will show the rotational torque needed to turn the assembly i have seen sheets with 2 foot pounds same as 24 inch pounds so go with what is in your kit. when reading the dial just read when turning slowly. also realize this is the rotational torque only not the torque needed to crush the crush sleeve and pinion nut to where you get the rotational torque spec.

no problem on the tail panel had to use up the stuff i dont need. didnt you get the floor pan to for the trunk?

dont forget to unscrew the gear selector cable from the steering columb before dropping the colume its a small phillips head screw. slide out the clip with cable and tape to dash.

custom cable from the company you got it from...

its a 2.73 :1 ratio rear end look in the tech info section for the rear axle decoding info i wrote up a while back covers all firsst gen montes alex

you want a set of patch panels i have a set that were made a while back will sell them for $250.00 these are hand made by a club member a while back and they go up to the body line and are well made. call me @ 217 480 7622 alex

first off did you remember the copper washers for the brake hoses to calipers and the line t at the rear axle? Double flare brake lines like what was mentioned earlier? Bench bleed master cylinder with a pair of lines bent back into the resevoir before install and then gravity bleed the system? did you start bleeding them from the pass side rear then drivers side rear, pass side front to drivers side front? is it possible you got a power brake m/c instead of a manual brake m/c? make sure all brake lines are tight? also the proportioning valve is it the right type for manual brakes as they are different than the ones for power brakes or drum/drum or disc/drum or disc/disc also with proportioning valve when bleeding the valve can shift to block flow one way or the other this could have happened just press the reset button on it if equiped to where the test light does not light up. if you did all of this could be the m/c is a bad one. also did you replace the brake rod with one for manual brakes as they are diff lengthes "pushes into the rear of the m/c from brake pedal." this can also result in spongey feel when bleeding brakes as it does not let the piston travel the full distance.

well if the center link did that i would look at the idler arm to see if it is bad otherwise the tie rods inner and outer as they could be whats causing your issue

this case i would say to but a posi unit and upgrade while your at it. it is not worth saving with that much damage. but if you want to save it take it to a good machine shop and have them build up the bearing area with weld "Ni-99 weld wire i believe" and then they will machine it back down to spec. plan on spending about 150-200 bucks. most likely it will be less but error on the high side in this case.

a welding supply store, lowes, home depot, harbor freight, summit racing website. typically any place that sells or leases gas cylinders sells the welders

on the carrier bearings use tin snips to cut the cage off and then use the bearing splitter to pull the rest of the bearing off utilizing a peice of 1/4 in plate steel to sit on the snout of the carrier. another option is to use a axle bearing puller on the bearing and slide hammer it off.

fyi, one thing i learned was to take a cylinder hone and hone out a new bearing to use for shim testing "just enough to slide on fairly easily but not loose then when you have the right shim in put on the new unmodified bearing.

first and reverse share the same gear set and in the tranny there are little metal balls that float in certain spots of the fluid passages if they get stuck from debris or what not flowing through the passages this could cause this issue as well as a shift plate gasket that is damaged or the shift manifold is warped or bad. take the tranny to a shop. by any chance did you smell the trans fuild when you got it if so did it smell burnt this could be the issue your dealing with. "dont quote me on this" but as far as i know for setting the pressure for the tranny the 200r4 you dont set its adjusted by the tv cable when it is properly set "check this site out http://www.montecarloss.com/SSThunder/drivetrain.html ". the 700 you do with guages as the 200 has the kickdown cable similiar to the 350 just a different length cable

this is truely heart breaking he is and always will be a great guy/ father and life partner of his wife mitzi. the jokes will be missed by him but will live on through the rest of us here on the boards. He may have passed on but will live forever here with us godspeed bird you will be missed but never forgotten. best wishes and many fond memories to your family. hope they have a computer up there with plenty of bannana smilies alex

that would be me that made the videos i replace the nylon bushing with a brass bushing and pressed it into place with a vice and to bits of sheet metal to prevent marring. here are the videos www.firstgenmc.com/doorhinge/MVC_002V.MPG www.firstgenmc.com/doorhinge/MVC_001b.MPG www.firstgenmc.com/doorhinge/MVC_001V.MPG www.firstgenmc.com/doorhinge/MVC_002.MPG www.firstgenmc.com/doorhinge/MVC_001.MPG alex