alex's72fgmc

there are felt guids on the inside of the front door you just need to move them outward and that should take care of it. if not there are some other guides that you may be missing that are screwed into the door and are covered with a felt type fabric. see if you have those if not get some and it should be fine after that Alex

m and h fabrications www.wiringharness.com they make them down to factory colors and specs

i have a holeshot 2400 and have had no problems yet but it is still in the box lol junk yard torque convertors no problem yet either and that have been in the car. for a while Alex

on the neutral safety switch there are some rods that conect to it and have to be slide into position on the switch unscrew the two screws and make sure the rods are in the holes that hold them. Alex

you know me picky picky picky lol My car will hopefully win some awards "even though it can only be members choice or presidents choice i think lol." but we will see Alex

i would lol since i am one of the judges for the club awards lol Alex

I had two frames dipped in a caustic cyanade solution from ready clean in evansville illinois "cost was $450.00 per frame" which eliminated all rust and paint. then i took my angle grinder and a flap style sanding disk and went over the entire frame then i painted it with 2 coats por-15 rust encapsulator and then 2 coats "sanding inbetween coats to get a smooth finish" of po-15 chassis black and it came out beautifull Alex

pot metal is almost poured alluminum so one thing i would try is called "alodine" it is a corrosive yellow liquid that you emerse your part it for 30 seconds to a minute to corrode it and prevent oxidization. then rinse it off with water. "the idea behind it is you can only have metal corroded by one form of corrosion not by multiple forms. basically once its corroded this way it wont corrode the oxidization way and in a sence protects it. then rechrome it or paint it. the other idea is to use phosphoric acid to clean the part of oxidization and rince it off with water. Alex

If it is a 72 then your gw5 is what is below GW5 273 RATIO AXLE

i would have to say trailing arms swapped out since there 2 bolts each versus 14 plus bolts to lift the body off the frame. not to mention the e-brake cables, brake lines, fuel lines, trans lines and what not. to much work to swap the frame instead of the trailing arms. its possible the prior owner or the one before that wanted to keep the f-41 rear parts for another one of his cars.

lol ed lol

ed, there is also a "con vin" behind the a/c box on the firewall. you have to remove the a/c box in order to see it. as for the chevy by the numbers book it is a great reference but it does not cover everything on a car. but is still worth the money. If all goes well ed i should be able to make it to the meet. see ya there if not i will let ya know. Alex Alex

ed, gm did not stamp a vin on the rear end only the trans and engine and on the firewall of the body got that stamping besides the vin plate on the cowl. the protecto plate was the only document to show what.... brand of carb "bay city, holly, rocheste or carter", radio, a/c, pwr steering, power brakes, disc brakes, pwr window, engine, trans, rear end, and vin of vehicle alex

hey pete, the only numbers i have found on the two frames i have is the part number atthe drivers side rear section of the frame rail.

it was an option but that car has the cruise control on the wheelwell not the load leveler. alex

oh sorry i didnt read that part must of missed it

nate, your wrong on that canadian ss cars had z20 stamped on the cowl tag. want proof talk to leo konick he has one of 147 that were made in 71 in canada. alex

what year is it? if it is a 72 then it is a 2.73 rear ratio type c rear end according to the assembly manual for a 72. also check out the rear axle decode in the tech info section "see link below" http://www.firstgenmc.com/tech/tech.shtml alex

the factory assembly manual will tell you the parts place will have it along with year one, paddock and a few others Alex

"In addition to servicing the Classic Muscle Car market, we also manufacture custom harnesses, pigtails and wiring assemblies for Original Equipment Manufacturers (OEM) as well. Some of our markets include: Automotive OEM, Performance Automotive Aftermarket, Heavy Truck and Bus, Farm Equipment, Marine and Industrial markets. Check out our list of customers" If you have any questions or require a modification that is not listed, please call our Customer Service Department at (562) 926-9552. just call them up and give them the specs you need efi system "what year and make/model car the efi system is from and what its going into etc they can walk you through it all" Alex

M&H Fabrications www.wiringharness.com 100 percent guarentee exact reproduction hand made with same colors and wire wrap as original factory harnesses this is who i am going with. for about 1500 bucks for all wires front to rear exact for your year. Alex

m and h fabrications makes exact reproductions of the original harness i have heard a few people say painless is a pain in the posterior for just replacement of original harnesses www.wiringharness.com alex

check out our parts sections http://www.firstgenmc.com/parts.shtml Alex

that is for the vapor lines bracket "two holes in the w shaped braket that clamps the lines in next to the vapor seperator tower "has four lines coming out of it" alex

drop the trans pan it may be in the trans "the linkage part" that is where it should be. alex