70Monte402

Thank all for the suggestions. Surgery has put me behind on this so nothing to report back yet. Will let you know when I get some "feel better" time to try the suggestions.

I was thinking that, and getting to them might be an issue for sure. I'll give it a try this weekend.

Great work ! I love seeing the pics as well. Regarding my '70 A/C car, is there anyone that might know why my actuator cable that operates the “COLD/HOT” door won't move past 1/4 away from cold? It will move a little to the right, towards HOT but then just stops. I don't want to "force" it AND I'm not sure what to do to get it to release and move all the way to HOT. It will move back to COLD without much effort but it will not move past that 1/4 area towards the HOT.

I learned how to drive in my mom's '75 Monte Carlo, Silver with a red vinyl top and a red interior ( back when they had other colors other than grey/black/ebony) I put a CB radio in, call sign KCR8847, the Silver Bullet. Those were the days of our youth...

Welcome to the group ! I hope you have great success with the re-do !

Thank for the reply, now...What does this mean? Where is that and how do I adjust ? 😕👀 Dennis Bagwell

Factory "horseshoe" shifter, the area of concern is the column area where a "column shift" handle would normally be. I don't have that nor do I have any shifter positions in my gauge cluster. I believe this to be original, but the issue is the area where the "column shift" arm would protrude is "slipping" a little so when you try to remove the key, it won't come out unless you grab that area with your left hand and rotate it back to the left about a 1/2 inch, at which time you can pull the key from the ignition. Any ideas how to fix this, it's a new one on me. Thanks, Dennis Bagwell

Factory "horseshoe" shifter, seems that it's out of adjustment a little. As you bring the shifter to the D position, it hits the detent but it's not really in gear. You have to pull up on the release handle and pull it just a 1/4 inch past the detent towards 2nd to get it to go into D. You can then push it back up to "click" it back into the detent. Anyone know where this needs to be adjusted? and how? Thanks Dennis Bagwell

Ahh, more clarification, makes sense that the 70 above is for the 70 ! So the papers I show could actually be production of '69 Aug, third week since the sequence is 0=70,F=Flint, 102268 is a low number, 2268 production, maybe one of the earlier ones made, cool.

Knowing the car over the years, but still sleuthing, knowing the Flint, MI assembly and colors line up, it fits in with the VIN. Of course the numbers on the tag and the numbers on the VIN sequence are different so that makes sense as well. The 08C seems to mean '70 Aug, third week but I've got papers somewhere that shows '69 Aug. as an assembly date. I'll have to find those old papers sometime.

I would, after removing the old one, place the new one on and check for fit and alignment, tape it in place really tight, flip it over and get a soldering iron with an old tip and then carefully touch the protruding tips to melt them, creating a mushroom of plastic that should not only hold but look close to original. Of course you won't see it once you re-install the internal cover but the satisfaction is high !

My console lid and the makeshift hinge from years ago....before you could actually find replacements. I might try to take the lock to a locksmith and see if he can key it, then change it to match the trunk/glovebox key. Is there a better place to carry on this thread than the New Members Area? Or just keep going with it? I was always Dennis the Menace 'cause there were no other Dennis' around and I was constantly taking stuff apart and putting it back together, mostly correctly ! Sorry, the banana stuff just "slipped" right past me but it does make me think of Minions !!

Found another old one of my interior. I need to refresh it for sure but it's all original ! ('cept the '80's Pioneer cassette radio, which no longer works)☺️ I want to: 1) Get a hinge for the console door 2) Get a lock catch for the console door 3) it has a lock but the key doesn't work. Does anyone know if it can be re-tumblered (is that a word?) 4) need a new steering wheel as the plastic has split and broken off in the back and sides. It's mostly covered with a '80's steering wheel wrap, the kind you used to have to "sew" onto the wheel but I would sacrifice that for a better wheel ! 5) Figure out why the console light no longer lights up and the headliner light won't light up. 6) Tackle the dreaded "gauge bulbs" 'cause the only thing I can see in the dash at night is how much gas I got. Guess as long as you got gas it doesn't matter how fast you're goin', right ?? 😁 I wasn't very good at taking pictures with my old flip phone some years ago, sorry. Thanks for all the welcomes as well !! Dennis Bagwell

New member but old lurker here. I wanted to join the ranks of a paying member to make sure this place stays around as long as possible. I have a 1970 402 BB - Auto, factory buckets and console w/ power windows, Flint-built 08C-third week of August '69, Color 78-Black Cherry w/ B-Black vinyl top. It now has a transplanted 454 bored .030 over, dual plane Weiand intake and a dual line 650 Holley carb. Just got it running along with all new calipers, lines, discs, bearings and pads up front and new trailing arms w/ poly bushings out back. I've had the car for over 30 yrs but life and kids got in the way of working on it more often. So now I am, little by little. I've been so thankful for the information I've found here and hope to find more as well as friends in the hobby. If you are near Nashville, TN, "holler back", as they say ! Some old pics as well as some recent ones are attached as I've worked on it here lately. Dennis Bagwell