snomobeelr

This appears to be 12 years of stupid. Iv had a problem of the plugs fouling for a while. The car has always run rich even with different carbs. Base timing @18. Its always run pretty good but always rich. But it also looks like oil for last two seasons too. I know it could be Valve seals or rings. Yet the odd thing is its all the plugs that look like this . Not 1 two or three. Its always been all the plugs. I was looking online and came across something I didn't think about. The PCV and breather. I have had it on there PCV Vale on the driver side and the breather on the passenger side. What I never paid any attention to was the baffle in the Valve covers. The PCV valve is right on the baffle blocking it. So it's Basically a Plug 🙈. I look at the breather and never realized there is button on the bottom to punch out so air will flow through the breather. So now Im think or know the PVC and breather hasn't been doing anything this whole time . 🤬

Just under 10 thousand miles. It was built in 2012 or 2013. the wasn't on the road until 2014 or 15. I haven't done a compression test . Maybe my ignorance but I figure either way rings or seals Im pulling the motor. If Im to do that Ill do it at the end of this driving season being in Northern Illinois. She still runs good no loss of power or anything like that noticeable. Just some smoke on start up. I always watch oil pressure and temp when driving. If I was having drivability issues it would be a different story. I was just wondering if there different plug or gap I could use to burn some of it off. Im running a 40 th gap with a DUI distributor. I remeber in younger years friend would run transmission fluid through the carb to clean everything up.. I tant remember if that's an old wise tale or not though.

Its not just one Plug fouling its all of them and its not thousands of miles. It is quite a bit of idling or low speeds 35 - 40 mph. I have to go farther out to get away from traffic and open roads. The picture below is after I cleaned half of the plugs.

It usually just smokes on start up. Either way I am not going to start a project like that, this late when driving season is within grasp 🙂 . Im really slow it takes me a long time to do projects. Even ifs its valve seals, if I have to pull the heads I would just pull the motor. Although I do believe those can be done without pulling the heads so Ill see. For now Im just going to clean or change plugs. I went with the hotter shorter plug last time. Question though which spark plug type Profile is better for my situation ? Short or extended profile?

I've always had an issue running rich and plugs carboned up. I know lately(last season) seems to blow some blues at start up. I've always used the NGK plugs. The last set was NGK V-Power 7. I was thinking of trying AC's plugs but don't think it will really make a difference. AC Delco Spark Plug - R43XLS . Pictures are from Plug #7. Any opinions? DUI HEI Distributor Carburetor: 4140 Holley Pro-System Engine Cubic Inches: 468 Compression Ratio: 10.1 Intake Manifold Brand: Edlbrock AIR GAP RPM Header full American Header 1 7/8" 3 inch Exhaust .................................................................... Cylinder Head Type: Brodix race rite oval port Intake Valve Diameter: 2.250 in. Exhaust Valve Diameter: 1.880 in ................................................................... Type of Camshaft: Hyrdaulic Roller Lifters Camshaft - Intake Duration @.050: 232 Camshaft - Exhaust Duration @.050: 244 Camshaft - Intake Lift at Valve: 595 Camshaft - Exhaust Lift at Valve: 581 Lobe Separation: 107

Larry , I have Brodix Heads on my BBC. I know there expensive but I went with the American Racing Headers.

Update, I did take the backing plate off. But Im not going any further. Too much effort and It was definitely weeping from that Spot in the pictures. I took Joe T's advice and called Edelbrock. I was sent to the warranty department and sent pictures. The manager saw the pictures and said if I had the original purchase Receipt they might be able to help me out. Couldn't find the receipt with my others and summit online didn't go back that far. I asked my wife to check Amazonin case I had her get it from there... Such Luck !!!! she found the receipt !!!!!! The only one thing I didn't realize. I purchased it in 2012 for $220.00. Holy Crap 12 years ago !!!! Time Flies. I sent it anyway and they called me. Said they'd like to help but it being 12 years ago I purchased it they couldn't replace it for free. But because it appeared to be a flaw in the casting if I got another one they would give me $100.00 off and no shipping so I ordered a new water pump from them for $277.66 Thank You everyone !!!

Not mine , Saw it on Facebook. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/929951078774200/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks 1970 Thru 1972 Chevy ((Monte Carlo Only)) Frame. $350 · In stock Listed in Lyons, IL Details Condition Used - Good For sale, 1970 Thru 1972 Chevy Monte Carlo ((( ONLY FITS 70 To 72 MONTE CARLO))), Frame in very nice clean condition straight and rust free, Was stripped and etched then painted Black imron many years ago and put into dry storage and never used. $350 ((THATS GIVING IT AWAY)). Located in Lyons, IL Message me for further info Thanks.

Pulled the pump. Didn't see it at 1st with the Camera and the flash. . Once I got a bright flashlight I saw it. Flaw in Casting. If you zoom in on 4, you can see it well. Thanks everyone, time to find a new one

I thought I was losing it. Well Actually I already have. The weep hole underneath is dry no leak there and no pinholes found in hoses. This has been happening for some time. But last couple times seems to be leaking more. The pictures are after I wiped it up a little. I couldn't believe it actually was weeping out of there. Thank You very much for the welding offer its very much appreciated. The Pump has been on the car since the motor was done in 2012. Car wasn't on the road until 2015 and it has 10,000 miles on there now. Any Suggestions? I thinking of going with a Stewart pump? Thank you everyone !!!!!

My Edelbrock water pump appears to be weeping from the top. Has anyone ever seen or had this?

It may be nothing. The Passenger side axel appears to stick out about 1/2 inch farther than the driver side. See pictures. Does anyone know if this is normal ? Or from a previous post I had it looks like I have a two series carrier with an adapter with a 3.73 gear. Would that be why passenger side is out farther? I am planning on having the rear end done with a Eaton True Track 3 series and Moser C-Clip replacement axels. I am going to get a new Ring and pinion 3.73 or might drop to a 3.55 not sure yet. Like everything too much info out there . Is there a certain manufacture - Brand of Ring and Pinion to go with ? US Gear / Richmond - Excel ? / Strange / Motion

Anyone know of a shop in or around Northern Illinois to get a 12 bolt Built? Have the 12 bolt. Thank You

Its not the Power steering pump belt. Its difficult to get a picture to come out with the way the belt looks " wonky" from the crank to the Water pump pulley. It doesn't make noise when starting or under regular driving. Only full throttle. At 1st I wasn't sure if it was the belt or the air going into the carb.

I've heard the squeak , but just noticed the water pump pully appears to be off a bit from the crank pully. Barley noticeable. It only squeaks when I hammer on it. If I remember correctly I had these pulleys on the small block 350 that used to be in the car. The water pump pulley is 3995631A0. Has anyone had this issue ?

Sorry , it is the same Tunnel. The piece that mounts to the Radiator is different. So the tunnels are the same, I believe the fans should be to.

the 350 and the BB use the same shroud, so I am assuming they use the same fan blade. I believe the fan blade is part #3947772 and there is also a fan blade #3976064 . I think the fan clutch is "Haden #2747" . You would have to see the part number on the fan blade.

71 Monte with a stock original gas tank. The tank has the lines for the Separator for the charcoal canister. I plugged them up as I am not running the charcoal cannister. Of course now my tank builds pressure so when I remove the gas cap its the suction sound. I read somewhere about drilling a small hole in the gas cap to alleviate the problem. Does anyone have any experience with this ? Thank You

Maybe its the angle of your picture but it looks like the P/S pully is not on all the way? Heres mine

The locking cap is the only one that semi tightens up on the newer tank. The other caps , vented and non vented only get tight in one position of about an 1/8 inch due to the lip but dosent stay in that position

The neck on the original Tank also has something in it, is this a baffle ? I thought about trying to squeeze the sides to round out the kink. Im just worried I might screw it up more by doing that...

Don't think the car was ever hit in the back but I am guessing the filler neck isn't usually bent like this on the gas tanks? Im thinking this was why I bought a re-pop gas tank when i redid the car. The repop is spilling gas, the cap dosent seal. Im cleaning up the original one that was sitting in the shed. any one else with an original tank, is it funky like this ? Thanks

Upon further review I figured out the issue with the Gas cap and leaking gas cap. It looks like the issue is the re-pop gas tank I bought back in 2012. Been using it this entire time since car has been back on the road in 2015. I didn't catch it when Bruce was kind enough to upload his pictures. I had my original tank out in the shed. You can see the difference in the Lip. The re-pop tank has a lip that is much thinner in most of the area and only gets snug in one very small area. The gas caps fit great on the original filler. So now dilemma is do I get another tank or have my old one redone... ...................................................... Gas Tank : DII corvex T31 CV 07-TK04 70-72 W/O O E.E.C.

Dumb Question. What grease do you use to tach the wheel bearings on the front Rotors. Ive been looking too much, was going to just use the Valvoline Red High Temp grease. Only wondering because it dosen't say for wheel bearings? Or should it it be the Valvoline full synthetic Gray, or something else? There are way too many products out there now.....

You were right about the part numbers. I saw the part numbers on another post and they had it backwards. The seem the same except for the bottom mount to the lower control arm. Of course I do not know if the valving is different. I got the correct ones "24-131506". I was splitting hairs because they fit fine. I was overthinking and thought they would bottom out. Not so. I did have to grind the Lower Mounts to fit in the spacers on the SPC control arms. But all is good. There mounted. Thanks guys