dave m

thanks to all for the info and suggestions from how to wire a volt gauge fix my gas gage then the tach PINCHED WIRE WHEN I PUT THE DASH BACK UP.. to my car not cranking the plastic on the solinoid cracked making bad contact. what i started as a 2=3 day project ended up being 2 1/2 month. thanks thanks thanks dave

thanks problem solved late last night. the bolt for the starter sol that the batt cable hooks to is loose inside the sol. dont know how this could happen the cable is tight???? going to try to tighten before i buy a new sol. tach update i think the tach term on the back of the tach fctory in dash tach must be touching the metal gauge cluster housing every time i plug it in it blows the ing fuse thanks again dave

hi i have been having lots of elec gremlins since i started working on my cluster. gas gauge/volt gauge /tach problems. still have a tach prob. i just got the car to start today after changing the dist i think some how the tach was shorting the ign?? but it started and run now after many diffrent things. I was trying to trace the tach prob not hooked to the ign not it wont crank I could always hear a click when turning the key on an still do. is there anythingon the fire wall near the boster or dist that i could have knocked loose???? I did check all the fuses never had a starter prob and all batt cables ect are new. i started working on this to have it done for the carsile show thanks dave

hi my msd connects to the tach term and the power term.per their directions. i did try to hook the tach to that spot were it belongs with no luck.. i am going to try and runa jumper from the tach wire on my truck to the tachlead on the monte just to see if the tach in the dash is working or i have another prob. if the tach does work then i guess i have to switch back to stock hei without the msd until i can afford a new one...... anybody got one for sale affordable it can be an old 6-a as long as it works

thanks the car is in the garage its hot but not like out in the sun...... when i dd the msd the instructions told me to use the wire term on the left side of the box looking at it i also am running a hei style dist mybe that why i am going to try to check thing tomorrow, it is supposed to be 97 so if i can stay cool enough with the fans i,ll give it a shot

hi a. now s you may have read i did get my fuel and new volt gauge working,,now in the pross my tach stoped working. I know i have power to the cluster because everything else it feds works. i am going to make sure i have rpm read from to the plug... next i want to jump from the tach wire lead to the back of the gauge, can anyone tell me which terminal on the back of the fauge i would run a jumper to. note when i first crank the car the tach jumps up to 1000 rpm for a split second also it is a new circuit board (IT IS A MATCH FOR THE OLD ONE) also am running msd box so the tach wire comes out of that,, I think the tach worked when i first tested the other gauges thanks dave

new problem fuel gauge and volt gauge now working.. started to bolt the dash back in place .now to find the tach now not working it did work before i startedand when i tested everying before bolting the dash back in. it is a new circuit board,i checked the conections and every thing seems good. when i just; start to crank the engine i get a quick burst of 1000 rpm i do have msd box i am ready to give up thanks dave

yes your right i have a thin sheet of foam taped to the bottom of that speaker, I just found a set of 4"round with 1.75 depth I am thinking of trying. they handle 50 watts I am running a amp even though i dont listen to the stereo often i keep blowing them

good news I figured it out. I knew my sending unit was working , I took a spare battery grounded it to the car used the wire from the car sender did ground to the ground on the gauge out of the car and hot the gauge in the dash still did not work but my old big gauge did.. I then took the new gauge ou of the dash hooked it up and it worked.. the answer the sending stud on the gauge was touching the dash housing,, i enlarged the holes in the dash housings used the insulator and bolted the gauge in place with no contact to the housing. I did the same process for my new volt gauge. all will go back together soon thanks bad news i fried the circuit board new one on the way

hi i am still trying to get my gas gauge to work. dropped the dash pulled the cluster i thought i did not have a good ground made new ground no luck. how can i check the gauge out of the car; I do not have an extra sending unit the sending unit to cluster plug reads ohms; also power to gauge works. the gauge was new 10 yrs ago but never worked. i have been playing with this for weeks now thanks one last thing this is an ss dash conversion from 10yrs ago it has no resitor on back i have been told the new gauges have it internal????

hi when I did my car 10 years ago my body man grafted a 1969 z/28 cowl to my stock hood at the time it was less expensive the modifying the avail 4" fiberglass and I did not want lift off. it is fully functionable I also like the length and the hood center line follows thru the scoop to the rear. I use the under hood mat but would not have to it looks like it came that way dave

UPDATE just got the cluster out ya reading from the fuel sender to the cluster plug. when I got the cluster out there is no connection to the bottom terminal of the gauge on the circuit board. next time out I want to check for pos and ground at the gauge the run a jumper to that bottom terminal. if I get that working I will start on the volt gauge that should be a snap. Paul if you read this thanks the speaker are discontinued I am looking at a pair of kicker but like you said magnet size is the issue dave

thanks that should help. it looks like I missed 2 bolts I don't remember it being this hard ten years ago but then I was only in my 50s does anybody know how to tell the tan wire for fuel or tan for brake I hoping that's my problem. also anyone know of good stereo dash replacement speakers I am running a small amp. rather hear the car then the stereo but since its apart I guess I should fix them to . ( paul I just red your occupation I guess you'll know )

Some progress I did determine that the fuel sender is working. the wire from front to back for the gauge seems ok I forgot I had to take the dash out to get the cluster. found the 5 easy bolts/ pillars both sides / center top/ I am guessing there is another center bottom?? I am hoping to be able to just tilt the dash enough to get at the cluster easy enough??? big hands and big body to match make it interesting to get in tight spaces. also when I built the car I already had the interior out and it had no radio or ac. so how many bolts and where is the last one hiding thanks Dave

hi I did call shift work weeks ago same response sold out they do not even have any further info or not willing to guess. I did buy mine from sonny 24 on eBay but until you gave me the wiring changes I was afraid to use it. he had me cutting the circuit board. the gauge is correct in looks and does work when tested out of car. waiting to see if I can figure out the fuel gauge problem starting at the tank before I pull the cluster. I was trying to get it all done before a show on may 23 but that has now been cancelled. our weather has also not been ideal either rain cold or wind t have to put my truck out to be able to work on the monte I love my cars but I not the best at cleaning and detailing thanks again dave

thanks i'll try that not at all like the directions. but much better then I planed my next prob is gauge is not marked. I thought I would check it with a 9 v transitor battery I think a reverse hook up the gauge would not read. or try to get updated info from shift works and buy one from them

hi I am trying to change my amp gauge to volt paul I noticed back in 2019 you posted that you do/did this. one of the reasons I asked for the wiring which is great... I bought my gauge from sonnie on ebay the co you listed is out of stock could not tell me when avial again. the gauge has metal threaded mounting to bolt in factory location. I am going to remove the amp wires from the plug . he says ground through the panel and put the jumper wire to the 12v side of the tach I also plan to use nylon nuts and washers to mount CAN I OR SHOULD I CUT THE AMP PORTION OF THE CIRCUIT BOARD AWAY ????? thanks in advance also no luck at this point getting the fuel gauge to work

wow thanks that is what I needed. I can not believe I have been searching for a month I bought 2 different diagrams and asked many Chevelle sites and gauge co. you guys answered in 2 hours thank again dave

hi when I bought my car as a basket case it had the gauge update from the lights. I have been told they had to move wires on the cluster plug???? my gas gauge has not worked since I finished the car I want to double check everything . I am hoping some one can tell me the colors of wires and the positions on the plug or #s position I am also changing the amp to a volt gauge so I need to remove these wires from the plug I can not find any info that tells me what color wires are for what gauges thanks in advance

thanks but my car always was stick shift factory 3 speed on the column now 4 on the floor . hoping to get everything back together tomorrow and then make sure every thing works without it dave

thanks for all the ideas no my car did not have ac//// it also did not have the throttle solenoid ( I did add a/c so I could use it now ) I'll worry about that later . Although it is busted I am going to wait to see iff everything works when the car is back together and then i'll either eliminate it totally or just plug it in and tape it up and hide it. thanks again

Hi thanks it is the relay you still have wires on facing the drivers side in the picture. it apers to be what opgi has in the pic but the discription does not make sense ???

Hi I am in the process of replacing the wire loom/channel that is on the firewall center just above the distributor it had a relay ? mounted to it. when I tried to unplug it just broke in pieces. I thought it was a horn relay ????? but looking on opgi site it looks like this??????? 1970-75 Monte Carlo Transmission Controlled Spark Relay Email Plus Pin It Tweet Share 1970-75 Monte Carlo Transmission Controlled Spark Relay Part# CH28222 Be the First to Review SAVE: $9.96 Retail: $102.95 OPGI Price: $92.99 Part Type: ® = Authentic reproduction of the original GM product Years: 1970-75Sold As: EACH 2016 Monte Carlo Catalog Page: 194 click to enlarge ’70-75 Monte Carlo Authentically reproduced relayThis reproduction relay is identical to original equipment and is a must-have for any 4-speed vehicle. The relay works with the Transmission Controlled Spark (TCS) switch to advance the engine timing when the transmission is in top-gear, which provides better fuel economy. The original style relay is stamped with the original GM part number on its zinc-plated metal top and features a plastic body equipped with the correct 4-prong configuration. Sold per each. Search Keywords my car was a factory 3 speed on the tree I have converted to hei dist . Is this correct ???? do I need it any more???? can I just trace the wires back and cut them off ????? I thought it was a horn relay?????? car is apart for msd// carb// full tune and a few other things so I cant tell if disconnected everything will still work. thanks dave

Hi all I have a 1984 chevy pick up 350 engine and trans. I switched to a 1995 chevy blazer 4.3 serp belt set up it is a direct bolt on with the a/c on pass side. any way the problem is I switched to the 1995 gm altenator ( I was told it eas a 1 wire it is not) of course it is not charging my question the heavy bat wire is on the large terminal as it shoul be, the factory 1984 alt had two other wires one heavy red the other is thin I beleive black from the two wire plug. the plig from the 95 alt only has 1 wire which of my 2 wires red or black from my 84 would I hook to the one wire plug on the 95 alt . I was told just to try each to see which one makes it charge. but I blew up a battery recently and of course it scared the pants of me. now the truck is all painted and very good looking and I don't want this to happen again. thanks for any help I am also going to switch my monte to this set up soon to get rid of my v belts always making noise. DAVe

thanks but the comp was 6 yrs old anyway needed to get up and running quickly which is why I bought the new one. pulled the hard drive and some other pices and scraped the rest. the new comp is so much faster and has 3 times the space It is great to use something that is fast again. dave