72-CLASSIC_RIDE

Yes Sir, that is what happened. Now have to get the Steering adjusted as steering wheel won't align to center and in process, broke the Horn Button! Now gotta search for that item. Doesn't appear to be easily found. Doug

To recap, Front end to Low and tires rub with new 15x8, 4" back space by Wheel Vintiques Rally Wheels on front. Previously 15X 7, 4 1/4" back spacing Rally's. I was interested in the Front Coil Overs and had discussed with Viking. I wasn't convinced they were the ones needed as he kept referring to Chevelle. When I asked about the Lower HD A Arm, he said it wasn't needed but I have been informed from others it would be a good idea and when he said around 4 weeks out, I decided at this point to add the Coil Shims to gain height. Put one on each front coil along with the one set already installed and brought front end up well more than had expected. My Rake is gone but front end is not pointing into the sky and sits decent for now. So, this is where I am at currently. I would still like to do Coil Overs but will wait until Winter for that project. Doug

For 1972, my Build Sheet shows for both Front/Rear, V30 as the RPO Code. Doug

Battery strength would be my 1st thought and would investigate this 1st. After that, Alternator, Voltage Regulator. Also, depending on Alternator Voltage capacity vs. voltage usage during those blips would have a similar affect. Those are my thoughts and sure others will add theirs................... Good luck and hope it's an easy repair. Doug

There was a Electric Solenoid attached to the Factory carb that with A/C on/running, that Solenoid would engage increasing RPM so that there would not be a stall from the engine. I will try and find the diagram/pic showing it on the Factory carb and Post unless another had already answered your question with pic's. I am not aware of any adjustments needed with Solenoid attached. Doug

Checked the tire/wheel clearances moving wheel hard right & hard left with NO rubbing sitting. But the clearance at the Top of the Wheels is tight and evidenced rubbing on tire tread driver side. So, my suspicion was correct, it's height! So, definitely looking at Adjustable Coil Overs on Front. Will do some research and then Post what I am considering for your Input before I buy. Appreciate your guys thoughts on the subject.......................😁 Doug

to our madness Kade. That is an interesting color combo and She looks anxious to Roll. Nice knowing it's history as your personal attachment. You should have years of memories.... again, Welcome...................... Doug

Thanx for the Info guys. My plan is to just do the Fronts as the Rears are no problem. The Adjustable Coil Overs look interesting for height. Saw a U Tube video😁 I still need to investigate to determine what/where the issues are. Short term I might screw a couple of those doo dads between the Coils and then drive her around and see what if anything changed. If it solves my problem, I still want to make this conversion even though the issue was resolved. If money were a problem they would work fine but if a more robust and more dependable way exists, I will feel better knowing it is there. My Son is going to help me tomorrow determining clearances by turning steering wheel while I fish around looking for problems after my Grandsons Baseball Game. I will provide update(s) once I have discovered direction needed to go. Once again, appreciate your detailed input Guys and for the Pic's Glen. I see there are a lot of options to choose from . Gonna have to do some studying.................. Doug

I felt if going that deep into the Suspension, might as well be able to somewhat Tune Suspension as a benefit. Doug

Hey All, Considering adding Coil Overs on the front end and was interested in hearing what those who had done or had another do this conversion. Not versed in this technology and looking for some guidance. I will likely have this done but 1st attempting to determine what my need is. I replaced front wheels (were 15X7 Rally 4 1/4" back space) that worked great, no problems rubbing or otherwise for years. Replaced fronts with 15X8 4" back spacing Rally's using same tires and depending on terrain, uneven surfaces on a turn, wheel will sometimes rub and worse with 2 in the car but not critical. When I replaced my 350 CI with the now 402 CI I never replaced the 350 springs and car sits lower in a stance I like but believe is now interfering particularly when making a fairly sharp turn with new wheels. I am looking at raising the front around 1/2" to 1" depending on need as I believe it is the height that is causing the rubbing (top of tire rubbing Inner Fender where attached at Fender). Handling has been slightly worse since going to the wider 245X60 Series tires and was wondering if Coil Overs aid this problem or should front end be rebuilt at same time? Again, this is not but an annoyance at intervals compensating for over steer. So, ride height and any improvement on steerability/stability is my only goal. The Performance is primary but not for Baja, Racing or just off road. I am looking at Single Stage! What would you suggest? Other suggestions I got were adding those doo dads between current Springs to gain height if that would solve problem but if true, I don't like that............... I have done some searching and see there are those with a more complete Kit (Upper/Lower A/Frames) or just the Coil Overs. Again what is the difference? Sure I am missing some other details but getting the Ball Rolling.................. Early stages so Plan can change depending on what is learned. I need to investigate tire clearance to fully understand, waiting for my Grandson to come over having another in the Car turning the wheel while I touchy feely................ Doug

Finally have gotten my New Rally Wheels installed. Replaced the ones I had on with Wheels Vintique 30 Series 15"X8" all the way around. Had 15X8's on rear and 15X7's up front until these got put on. I stayed with the 4" BS and up front, I might need up to a 4 1/2" BS as I think tires 245R 60 Series BF Goodrich T/A's with (2) people in the car tend to I believe rub on Inner Fender. My front end sits below Factory and closes up those tolerances bringing tires closer to Inner Fender. Took her out for a drive today and discovered this issue during that cruise. Bothersome but not especially worrisome at this point. So, check out the pic's as I initially was Up In the Air deciding, so what do ya think now that I have come back to the Ground? 😁 Doug

Added updates and adjustments to the spread sheet! There are now 56 confirmed with 3 yet to be identified as Customs. I separated those (Unconfirmed) to the bottom of the page and scrolling down you will see them. I adjusted the data base and looks slightly different from the moves but is as close to accurate as I know it. I also realized requests were made as I looked over prior messages from this Thread and I had missed those along the way. I would request that in the future, please PM me as I will absolutely get those and I can update in real time. If anyone has any issues with your data, again, PM me. Doug 1972 MONTE CRLO CUSTOM NUMBERS REV. 18.0 JPG.xls

Hi Phillip and to the Club. I also have a 72 Custom and have been tracking those still serviceable for the past several years. After identification, I add them to my data base. Review my data base and if agreeable, that info will be included and Posted in the SS454 Thread, the 1st Posting "72 Custom Numbers". This is an ongoing project that I update new info as I come across it and is verifiable. At the bottom of the data sheet, there are some that I can't specifically determine are/is authentic but keep them for future updates if warranted. Anyway, hope to add your info if not already part of the data base. Having your VIN# allows me to compare with Data Base so as not to duplicate. The remainder is up to you if you want the additional info included. I will try to keep any personal info other than real name, city/state and Club handle which I find necessary to control errors. I also like input on any ideas you may have concerning Data Base Layout, Leads to vehicles etc. You can PM (Private Message) me your info for privacy or use this medium to respond. Doug

If factory, the Plug connecting to Radio is 9 Pin Female plugging into Radio connection Male that provides the juice to operate the Radio. ALL the AM/FM/Cassette/8 Track Stereo Radios for this era were identical (9) Pin. The only Stereo Radio that was (6) Pin connection was the Stereo Mono (2) Front Stereo Speakers and only (1) Rear Speaker located on Passenger Side Package Tray as ALL AM Radios are (6) Pin. If this helps.......................... If Factory, you will have no problem removing and replacing without having to make any modification. Doug

Both are (9) pin Radios and interchangeable. No wiring changes needed if is Factory and unmolested. Doug

Saw this while perusing, but $139.00? If anyone is interested and not mine. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1092207194615044/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3Adf29b91d-6d90-4843-9221-68118e06f279 Doug

Gorgeous decoration Aaron. I have only one question. I see only 2 candles on your Birthday Cake, is April telling you something? Happy Birthday Aaron................. Doug

The cable where it attaches to your transmission may be the culprit depending on the Bracket on the tranny. There is a difference between the 350 and 454BB bracket. I modified my 350 bracket to work with 402 BB when I upgraded to the BB. Just a thought...................... Doug

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I was looking at those Aaron and are a good possibility. We will see when that time rolls around. Doug

This discussion has been around for awhile & I e-mailed Coker about the Browning of the white lettering recently. They replied & I have included their explanation below in this Post. In Sept. last year I ordered (5) Vintique 30 Series Rally Wheels. Pandemic has caused supply problems and Order had been rescheduled twice so far with a projected late March, early April delivery target. I originally planned on pulling the T/A Radials (pre browning) currently on and mount on new wheels. Then I thought just leave alone and buy new T/A's. The below article suggests that I find a New Tire if I want white lettering, according to the reply. Didn't say that but no other Options. Anyway, still considering swapping tires on wheels (if wheels ever show up) or looking at other raised white lettering tires for new wheels. Cost roughly $90.00 to dismount, remount, balance, replace w/new steel valve stems on 5 original tires or about the cost of 1 tire! What say, Remove and Mount or leave alone and buy new non-BF Goodrich T/A Radial tires for new rims. The wheels are Vintique 30 Series Rally Wheels - 15"x8"X4.75X5" BS mounting projected 245x60x15" Radials. Any suggestions on another white raised letter Tire would be helpful. Here is Coker's explanation for dirty white lettering: Hello Douglas, Thanks for contacting the BFGoodrich Consumer Care Team. My name is Karen and I look forward to helping you out. You've been assigned case number 02059864. This will allow my team to quickly pull up your case details if any further questions arise. We are sorry to hear you are having an appearance issue with your tires. The brownish color on the sidewall of your tires is not a defect. The source of this discoloration can be varied. One possibility is that the tires contain an anti-ozone agent in their rubber compounds to slow down the ill effects of exposure to ozone in the air. This anti-ozone ingredient will migrate to the surface of the rubber and leave the appearance of a brownish dust. The browning is the normal functioning of the anti-oxidants in the rubber that prevent ozone cracking. While it's not pretty to look at, it can likely be washed off and it is a sign that the compound is working to defend from ozone cracking. Other possibilities for discoloration can be simply dust that is picked up from normal driving or brake dust which is generated by the abrasion of the brake pads against the brake rotor. This latter condition is more prevalent when the brakes are new or have recently been relined. In all cases, we recommend that you continue to clean your tires with a mild soap and water. If the problem persists, then you would need to present the vehicle to an authorized tire dealer for inspection and have the dealer call us while you are there. We hope that this issue has been resolved or addressed to your satisfaction. If we can assist you further, please call us at 866-866-6605 (toll-free) between 8:00 a.m. and 7:00 p.m. EST Monday through Friday, or between 9:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. on Saturday. We appreciate your business and thank you for choosing BFGoodrich. Doug

I get the same messages and have past several years. I pay, save the confirmation email in a Folder and forget about it unless a dispute arises. I have the saved e-mails to confirm payment. Rob is working to reduce/eliminate this issue with automated messages as I had understood it. As for the Pass Word issue? I don't understand it either and had the problem for over a year and yes, frustrating! All's I know is that Aaron had done maintenance on the Site and miraculously my Password issues were resolved (so far). Some suggest using a different Browser as Google to log in and see if that corrects the issue. Good luck and hope is resolved for you in a timely manner........... Doug

Aaron, that almost hurts my eyes to look at them........................... Doug

I will have to look back to remember Roger or will go over and pull a Bulb to get the number. I thought I had bought them from NAPA but not certain. I will let you know when I get the info. Right now Snowed In. Doug