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I know of a CLEAN, ridiculously clean, white, black top, black cloth buckets interior '70 in my area of Wisconsin. Frame off restored southern car, no pock marks on anything underneath this car, just stupid clean. All born-with drivetrain, fully documented, and details are right...jambs are black, level-ride compressor in place AND working, etc. I think it'll take $75k or so to buy it, but PM me if interested, and I can connect you to the owner.

Cool car. If the paint is indeed original, it's the first Cranberry Red Monte I've seen without blacked out rockers. Anyone else see an original paint cranberry car with red rockers? Jeff

Paul, you're spot on. From the photo provided, your tips seem to be positioned within assembly manual spec. I haven't measured, etc, but boy I've seen a lot of those SS tips over the years. It seems guys are getting more careful about installing them in the factory position, too. Jeff

Hi Doug, I think I have some information that will help. I haven't had great luck finding build sheets in Kansas City built cars, but got lucky tonight and found mine under the rear seat! Box 47 says R89 and T60 is not listed as an option, so I'm pretty certain I have a big block car WITHOUT a heavy duty battery. Excellent list of options with this survivor, though, and it was a customer order to boot! Jeff

Hey Guys, my memory is escaping me. I'm familiar with the heavy duty battery option on build sheets, but I currently don't have a build sheet for my '72 402 car. My understanding is that for 1971 and 1972, the standard battery was a side post R89S battery and the heavy duty battery was a R89W. Would my 402 car automatically have an R89W because it's a big block? I'd like to get a correct battery for the car and there's enough difference between the S and W that I'd like to purchase the correct one. If big block cars didn't automatically come with the R89W, is there another way, other than looking at the build sheet, to determine which battery a car came with? Gauge wire or part number on my original battery cables? Some other distinguishing factor? Thanks for the help. Jeff

Steve, sorry to hijack the thread. Is the swap on the 23rd well attended by sellers? Any guess at the number of spots? I'm just north of you in Oak Creek and don't want to make the drive unless it's a decent swap. Thanks and hope all is well. Jeff

I've purchased from Jeff before and I think his hoses are the most authentic on the market. The fonts on his stamps for alternators, brake boosters, etc are also spot on. I've compared them with a couple survivors I've had and this guy knows what he's doing. I've emailed him questions a couple times too and he's gotten back to me within a day or so, which is a bonus. Jeff

Dale,I installed the tips on two of my cars to the specs you referenced and I was happy. Both were big block cars, so like you, it was important for me to have the exhaust looking as correct as possible. Jeff

Thanks for the suggestions, I really appreciate it. For the meantime, I think I'll photocopy it with the blank underneath. When I go back to work in fall, I'll see if our librarian can work some magic with the laminating machine. Thanks again! Jeff

I took the bench seat out of my '70 today to lube up the seat sliders and found the build sheet in the springs. I got it out, but it was torn wherever a spring was on the paper. Does anyone know an effective way to put the sheet back together? I don't want to use tape because it'll yellow. I wonder if there's a home laminating kit or something available that I can "press" together? I can't run it through the laminating machine at work because it has to be intact. BTW, I'm not looking to spend big $$, this isn't a 402 or SS car, so the build sheet is really for my own amusement. Thanks fellas- Jeff

Unmolested cars are invaluable for questions like this! Thanks for the info. Rich, it's appreciated.

Hi guys, I have to say first that I was not alive when these cars were built, so I don't have any first hand knowledge of seeing what was correct on original cars. But, I did a lot of research on the rally wheel color when I did some detailing on a '70 SS I had a few years ago. I'm 99.999% certain that the back of the rim should be black on our rally wheels from the factory, with argent silver overspray because the front of the wheels were painted after the back. The '70 chevelle 5 spoke SS wheels were definitely gray and I think some of the 14" rally versions were also gray on the back too. Just my input- Jeff

Vaughn, I don't have my assy. manual handy from my '70, but tip location is definitely in the 1970 manual. I used it as a reference when I had the exhaust done on my SS. If you can't find it in your '71 manual, email me and I'll look in my assy. manual this weekend. Jeff

I've had amazing results with Meguiar's two step process. There's a plastic cleaner, followed by a polish. Used with a dremel on low speed, I've made faded lenses crystal clear and swirl free. If your lenses are already in decent shape, I use a microfiber cloth instead of the dremel. I rarely see these products in stores. . .you may have to order them directly from Meguiar's. Jeff

To add to what Aaron said, a Protecto Plate can also be used to verify a true SS. Although it doesn't offer the Z20 option code, it does give engine block prefixes, as well as trans and axle codes. So in '70, if the POP has a CRN block code and the POP vin matches yours, I'd say you have a true SS. The POP would also help to prove an SS if the original engine was not with the car, because the POP would show which block originally came with the car. Jeff