Winston Wolf

This is probably the way I would go, the ford fan. Do you have any pictures?

I've been thinking of going to an electric fan setup on my 70. I'd like to retain the stock look as much as possible, and keep the tunnel. Has anyone accomplished this while going to electric? Figured I'd ask before I go through all the work and figure it out for myself.

Talk to Chris Kokkonis at CK Performance. He builds them for 9 second turbo Buicks.

It will, if it's built right. I would not use Bowtie OD for a high HP one though. I bought one from them years ago, shortly after it failed on me, we took it apart and found most of the parts they used were basically stock, not high performance. The OD solenoid never worked from the beginning, and their stall converters are far from "high performance". I'm not trying to rag on them, they are fine for street use cars, but I didn't have luck when I pored the coals to one. I view them like any old local trans rebuilder, but with a good website. Deal with someone that builds them for drag cars and is in to turbo Grand Nationals that have big power. I've also read some info in this thread that I wouldn't consider 100% accurate. Learn about the trans and what the TV cable actually does. This will help you to understand how to adjust the pressure and have it shifting correctly. Also, there are better tv brackets than the one from bow tie. I think their geometry is a little off. I don't know how anybody is using 373 or higher gears with that overdrive, they must have dinky cams or stump puller big blocks; I had to go to 4:56's just to keep it from surging. And expect to pony up a grand if you want a real torque converter. You need a serious lock up clutch to lock it at full throttle when you have 500 hp. The 300$ ones people sell will last about 2 passes before that clutch burns up. I'm only speaking from experience; I spent a lot of money to learn the hard way. Good luck.

750. It's not like you have a 350...

750

http://www.ckperformance.com/resources/GM2004RTRANSMISSIONS.html http://www.converter.com/vigilante.htm go with at least a 4.10 in the rear. I run a 4.56 with a 28" tire and it runs under 2100 at 55. Big stall for the strip, lock it up for cruising. There is NO COMPARISON driving one of these with an overdrive and low gears vs a 350/400 with medium (3.73) gears. Anyone who says you don't need one hasn't driven with it. Best thing I ever did to the car. The only reason to run a 3 speed vs 4 is because of money. If you can afford it, do it.

Try the solid mount on the driver side first. Cheap and easy to swap. I didn't notice any vibration change.

I wouldn't worry about knicking the carrier... If you do, sand or lightly file the knick down and move on.

Just cut the carrier bearings off with a dremel.

I think a mechanical pump on a hot 600 hp 427 or 434 SBC would be fine, in my opinion.

I installed the 2 step yesterday and wired it just as I show above. It does work as I designed. The only thing to note is the brake pressure switch should be between the master cyl and the line lock. Too hard to really test on the street, since my car spins too easy, but I'll test it next year. The adjustable pill works as advertised. I had it as low as 1500.

I found this from back in 96 when I was running the stock 350 block. It did around 280 hp at the wheels, ran 13.5 in the 1/4. The combo was: Stock bottom end, Trick Flow Twisted Wedge 180cc heads, Performer RPM intake and Edelbrock 600 carb. The cam with a Lunati Bracket master 2 cam, either the .460 lift or .480 lift one, I just can't remember anymore. The RPM cam would compare more to the bigger of the two. If you change the cam, I would use something other than the RPM cam. Stick with a small runner head, keep the compression reasonable, put in an off the shelf Comp or Lunati cam and have fun. For what you are trying to do, most any aftermarket aluminum head will be just fine.

I wouldn't say that is true. In fact you'd be hard pressed to find an externally balanced 383 or non stock 400 now-a-days. Summit lists qty 53 3.75" stroke 2 pc main crankshafts, of those, 47 are internally balanced. The 6 they have are all cheapy cast ones from 160 bucks to 250 bucks. When doing a 383, you started with a 350 and wouldn't want to buy a 400 balancer and flywheel, since you can use the 350 stuff with the correct crank. Just don't want to send somebody down the wrong path.