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Supaflytnt last won the day on January 31 2017

Supaflytnt had the most liked content!

About Supaflytnt

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  1. Update on the floor pan project. I ended up buying a flux core welder for my project, as the price was pretty decent and it was able to run off my 120 outlet in the garage. While working on the under seat area, I wasn't sure if I needed to remove the brace/gusset on both sides. I opted to go for it and take those out. It sure wasn't easy, but Im glad I did because there was some really rusty, shaggy metal under them. Here is some pics of my progress, including those braces i decided to remove. I have passenger side welded in, driver side cut and almost ready to be welded in.
  2. I'm replacing a few flor pans on my '71 and about to start welding. When cutting the replacement floor sections, is it better to get butt welds or overlap by about 1/2 to 1"? I'm using a flux wire welder if that matters
  3. I am talking about this son of a b: Lotta blood sweat and beers to finally get the brace out. I think this is going to be the toughest part of the job replacing the under the back-seat pan. I am happy that we did it because the pan underneath was shot. Im just a little bummed i need to eventually do the other side
  4. Hey y'all. Need some advice on my interior project. I am replacing several floor pans in my '71 monte including parts of both sides of the rear under seat pan. My issue is that there is this brace that connects the outer wall to the under-seat pan and the metal that is underneath the brace is definitely rusted and poor quality. I know some people have just welded a replacement pan over the part of the brace that connects to the floor. The other obvious option is to remove this brace, cut out the bad metal, replace it with a good pan and then weld the gusset/brace back into place. Is taking out the brace temporarily potentially going to affect the integrity of the car? i only plan on doing one side at a time. Is removing this brace going to be a real [censored], so maybe just consider welding over it and leaving it in place? Here is a picture of the brace i am talking about. What do y'all think is the way to go?
  5. Guys, thank you for all the input/encouragement. I have been obtaining a few of the tools i need for this project, as well as educating myself as best i can with youtube videos and even a trip to the library. I am starting with the under the back seat floor replacement. Both sides will need the floor patched. I started cutting out the driver's side and I have a question about the pan that goes underneath the brace connecting the outer wall and the pan underneath the seat. Do i need to remove that brace to be able to cut all the rusted floor, or do i need to cut it out from below? Or is there some other solution i haven't thought of? I attached a couple photos, and the brace Im talking about has the screwdriver pointing at it.
  6. Thanks for the encouragement and sound advice guys. I'm starting to look forward to tackling this project over the next few weeks. (Instead of dreading it) I will be doing a lot of reading up on welding, that's for sure. And thanks for the input on Eastwood welders MCFan. I'm looking into their welders and hope to purchase one soon after I figure out what I need. Anyway, I'm very thankful you guys have been so helpful. I will post pictures of this project as it progresses for your enjoyment/amusement. Here goes nuthin'
  7. Cbolt: Thank you for the reply and the encouragement. I'm a little hesitant because I'm a total rookie when it comes to welding. Ive decided to go for it, and attempt this project myself. I have an air compressor and going to purchase a metal nibbler attachment to help with the removal of the rusty floor pans. Metal grinder, check. Here is where I need help.... What kind of welder do I need?!? I'm assuming I will be using a MIG welder, but what kind and how powerful??? My garage is wired for a 220 v but no outlet has been installed. Should I go that route and get a 220 welder or is that overkill for this project? It will be relatively simple to get the outlet put in. Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
  8. Update: I have been going to town with the wire brush rust removal and am getting close to deciding what I'm going to do. I am a little intimidated about this job because I really don't want to F it up. I have been watching a ton of videos on floor pan replacement and welding as well as por-15 and rust mort products. My problem is I don't know anyone in the area that is experienced to at least monitor my progress. (Do auto body guys do side jobs?)I called a body shop, sent them a bunch of photos and they gave me an estimate of 4 grand!!! 1 for parts (both floor pans, a rear pan, and floor brace) and 3 grand for labor. Along with the comment that "this is a best case scenario..... we expect more as we get into it" Advice?
  9. Thank you all for your insight on my problem. I plan on going to town on all the rust with a wire wheel brush on my power drill, clean it all out and see what the the floor looks like after that. At this point I think the driver side floor pan is toast. I hope the other spot under the passenger back seat will be able to be repaired with POR 15, but we will see. After thinking about it, I'm going to attempt to do this project myself with some assistance from someone with some welding knowledge. I agree, why not take this crummy situation and turn it into an opportunity to expand my knowledge and skill set. And besides, if there a lot of hacks out there the old saying holds true wether its money or your classic Monte...."nobody cares about your money (Monte) as much as you do". And being wisconsin where I live, and I'm lucky enough to have a heated garage, what else am I gonna do until April?!? I will update this post with my progress, and any advice or insight on what's going down will be much appreciated!
  10. Thats pretty much what i was thinking. Kind of a bummer, but like you said as long as i have it down this far i might as well do it right. Since I don't know how to weld, any idea how much this would cost for parts and labor? -dan
  11. went to town on removing the rest of the carpet and the black tar shingle-like cover on the floor boards. Here are some better pics. There are a couple spots where there are relatively small holes in the back under where the back seat is. There is one large hole under the the drivers side floor board. Also, front passenger has an oval like area that comes up off the floor. Not sure what that is. See what you guys think of these pictures:
  12. Typical snowball type project happening in my garage. And up front, I am not a mechanic and am no expert on restoring classic cars, so I'm kind of a novice here Started out by just wanting to install some new 3 point harness seatbelts up front. Hey, while your at it, why not take out the seats up front and maybe the console too. I definitely was going to consider putting an improved center console in... Now would be the perfect time to look underneath the carpet and see what kind (if any) noise barrier was put down by the prior owner(s). And hey, to get a real good feel for whats going on, gonna have to take out the rear seat, and the stock back seatbelts that had been buried for years and years under the back bench. (And btw, what size are those bolts? Dang were they a b-i-t-c-h to remove). At this point it is obvious there is some rust issues, especially under the back passenger side seat area. What do y'all experts think my options are? How bad is this problem? What is your take on products like POR-15?
  13. thanks for the replies fellas. I guess i wrongly assumed there would be a 275/60 or even a 275/50 on a 16" wheel. I was able to find one 275/45r16 on a Toyo brand tire on the interweb, but at this point it seems like such an odd size tire that i will prolly just go with 4 mickey thompson ET street s/s 255/50-16s, with the front going on 16x7" wheels with 4" bs and back going on 16x8" wheels with 5"bs. Also, I plan on putting front and back viking coilovers this winter so hopefully being able to adjust ride height will ensure a good fit
  14. I am aware that questions like mine about wheels and tire combos and if they will fit may be a little tiresome. I just haven't seen a lot of comments on size 16 wheels; just trying to save myself some headaches, so i appreciate all input!
  15. Hey all, after doing some research on this thread, I am pretty confident this will work but before I spend the time and dollars I want some feedback if this will work. I want to put 16 X 8" wheels with 5" of backspace on all 4 corners with a 255/50-16 tire on each wheel. Will this work without rubbing? I was considering putting 275/60s on the back but I want to make sure they all fit... For what it's worth, I'm planning on putting Viking coilovers on as well. I will do this at the same time if this will help get everything to fit. Whadyall think?
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