MCfan

Check the letter in the 7th position of the VIN. If it is "F" (Flint) you will not find a Build Sheet (at least no one has to date). If it is "B" (Baltimore) or "L" (Van Nuys) it is very likely at least one build sheet hidden in that car and it would be well worth some careful looking to find it. Under the rear seat cushion or behind the bucket seat backs are the easiest places to look but sheets have been found under the carpet, on top of the gas tank, inside door panels and various other non-visible places. I know prices of SS models are up due to increased interest and demand but $35K still seems high to me. It would have to be documented for me to even think about it at that price.

Glad you are enjoying her, Dan! I feel a lot better about letting her go knowing she's getting good care and lots of attention. Her space in my garage (and heart) is still empty ...

I have replaced the original trunk latch with an electric-powered latch on two '70s and both were bare metal. The build plants were Baltimore and Van Nuys.

My modified 402 came to me with an Edlebrock Torker II manifold and 650 Edlebrock AVS carb which sits reasonably high so it had a non-dropped 2" air filter. When I upgraded to a 750 Edlebrock (and later to a 750 AED), I wanted less air restriction and better filtration so I experimented with several combinations of dropped bases and top lids to allow the use of a 3" filter element. I was surprised to learn that some combinations of dropped bases and top lids actually reduced the clearance between the carb entrance and the lid more than the original non-dropped 2" filter set up. The distance between the top of the carb and the closed hood (especially with a hood blanket) is obviously fixed and limited. Maximizing the use of that fixed dimension for actual air flow into the carb is important for performance but may not give the best appearance so it depends on what is most important to you. Obviously, the final height of any air cleaner combo (don't forget the stud length and lid nut) has to be limited to the available carb to hood clearance, but there are several combinations of bases, lids, studs and nuts for a 3" element that will give different internal air flow clearances. Technically, the internal air flow clearance of any combination can be measured, but it is pretty easy to eyeball the differences by just assembling each combo of base, element and lid on the bench and inspecting it through the carb opening. A tall air filter may look cool but it may not do much, if anything, for actual air flow if it takes a severely dropped base/lid combo to make it fit.

Good to see pictures of your gold '72 again, Anssi! Both Montes look great! Thanks for sharing the link to the Nitro Nationals. I see my friend Jimmy Alund from Sweden was there again competing in both Pro Mod with Old '51 and Pro Stock with the Summit Camaro. He won both classes at the 2018 Nitro Nationals there in Finland, but I haven't seen any results posted yet (in English) for this year's event. I've read that Jimmy is trying to win the European championship in both Pro Mod and Pro Stock this year. Hope he did well in Finland. It's amazing to me how many American muscle cars there are in Scandinavia! I met Jimmy at a car show in Punta Gorda, Florida several years ago and he tuned my '70 4-speed Monte for me at his home in Port Charlotte.

Really sorry to hear of your mishap, Dan. I hope Hagerty helps you get it fixed right and quickly. Minnesota's new "hands free" law just went into effect today, July 1. No driver is allowed to manually operate their phone while driving without being subject to a progressive fine and other consequences. Voice commands are allowed and some limited use of GPS but no keying is allowed. Don't know if MO has a similar law but I hope that punk who hit you has to pay something to learn a lesson and send a message to other careless, distracted cell phone using drivers.

Sold my '70 SS to another club member today. Sad to see her go but it was inevitable. Loved owning, driving and working on her for the past eight years but since I had averaged less than 200 miles a year driving her, it was time to let someone else enjoy her. Going to hang on to my '70 4-speed in FL since I get to drive it much more down there. Owning a first gen SS is a unique experience - one I will always treasure.

I used Motor City by Federal Mogul in my '70 4-speed and Timken in my '70 SS. No issues with either brand.

Just type "295x50" into the Search Box and hit Enter. A couple of threads will come up on this subject. Here's one of them: LINK

1970 Monte Carlo SS454 Front: Stock15x7" rally wheel; 245x60-15 BFG Rear: Stock 15X7" rally wheel; 245x60-15 BFG

1970 Monte Carlo Front: 15x7" rally wheel; 4.5' back space; 255x60-15 BFG (1" spacer in front coil prevents rubbing) Rear: 15x8" rally wheel; 5" back space; 275x60-15 BFG (3/4" sidewall clearance with fender well - no trimming or rubbing)

Antione, I believe they were all semi-gloss black like the frame (both of my '70s are) but someone that does factory-like restorations (LS5, Overdrive, etc.) will surely answer this for you. I checked a list of GM A Body Paint and Plating guidelines that I have but it does not specifically list the components you asked about. In case you wonder about the original paint/plating of other engine bay components, I will paste the list I have into this reply below: GM A-Body Paint/Plating Information All of the General Motors engine compartments are very similar. Each division may have made small changes to suit their individual applications, and each have their own engine colors, but the major components color of parts, and plating that are used remain essentially the same. I would emphasize that research is the key. When you take your engine out for rebuilding or detailing, photograph the components before they are disassembled. Remove the parts and note whether they are plated, painted, or just natural. When the car is being reassembled the parts should be returned to their original condition. Through research it's been discovered that the following components should be restored as shown. Naturally there are always exceptions for a given year but these can be used as a guideline. Accelerator rod, accelerator lever: Black oxide. Alternator: Natural aluminum finish, no paint or plating. Alternator fan: Zinc plated (silver). Alternator pulley: Silver cad plated or gold cad plated (depending upon the application). Most plating shops can handle either application. Battery box hold down clamp: Semi-gloss black. Brake distribution bracket: Cadmium dichromate. Brake lines: Natural steel, no paint or plating. Brake line clips: We've seen these clips in natural finish, black oxide, and zinc chromate (green) finish. Clutch cross shaft: Gray phosphate plate. Clutch linkage parts: Gloss black finish. Clutch fork: Natural steel finishes that can be painted with cast-iron spray paint. Clutch return spring: Natural steel or gray phosphate. Clutch return spring bracket: Natural steel finish. Control arm cross shafts: Semi-gloss black enamel. Control arm bolts and large-end washers: Natural steel. Control arm adjustment shims: Natural steel. Engine accessory braided ground strap: Natural, no paint or plating. Engine dipstick handle: Natural steel finish. Exhaust manifolds: This is another area where the GM divisions differed. According to restoration sources, Chevrolet exhaust manifolds were over-sprayed when the engine was painted. According to Pontiac sources, Pontiac engines were painted first, then the exhaust manifolds was installed. Whatever the case may be, if you are going to drive the car, any over- spray that may be sprayed on the exhaust manifolds will bum off quickly. Exhaust manifold locks: The exhaust manifold locks were natural finish unless the exhaust manifolds were painted; then they were over-sprayed. Fan blades: Fans on GM cars differed from brand to brand. Some divisions, like Chev, painted the fan and blades black, while other GM divisions used natural stainless fan blades with black center hubs. If the fan was a clutch-type, the clutch was natural aluminum with a gold cadmium center. The clutch shaft and spring are natural finish. Fender bolts, fender bolt washers: Black oxide. Frame or sub frame: The frame and sub frame on all Sixties through Seventies GM muscle cars were painted semi-gloss black. Some restorers like the frames a little more on the shiny side, while others like a flatter finish. There are a lot of different formulas for this and different paints you can use. Most restorers use acrylic enamel or acrylic urethane finishes with a flattening agent for frame components because of their durability, One formula that you can use is as follows: 3 qt. PPG Delstar mixing black 1 qt. flattening agent PPG DTR601 quick-dry reducer Front springs: Natural metal. Fuel lines: Natural steel finish, no paint or plating, Heater/heater shroud: Semi-gloss to gloss black lacquer. Generally, more shine than the engine compartment. Hood hinges, hood latch, hood catch, hood springs: These components look like they are natural finish, but they were actually gray phosphate plated. This process is available from several plating companies. Upper and lower alternator brackets: Most pulleys and brackets used on GM cars were painted semi-gloss black, but there are some exceptions to the rule. Research your particular car because on some GM brands, individual pulleys could have also been gray phosphates, zinc, or cad plated. Some of the GM divisions also used large aluminum brackets that were natural aluminum in color. Horns: Gloss black finish. Horn relay: Natural, no paint. Ignition wire dividers: Black plastic. Inner fenders, firewall, radiator support: As with the frame, there are many different formulas that can be used to achieve a semi gloss black paint to match the factory finish. Some restorers like to mix their own paint to get the shine they desire, but. many restorers also use a premixed PPG paint for their engine compartment. We have used PPG 9423 lacquer on our cars and it is about as close as you can get to the factory finish, We usually buy it in quart cans because that's enough to do a complete engine compartment. Many of the spray can manufacturers (e.g. Krylon, VHT) make a semi-gloss black that also looks good on engine compartment components if you don't have professional spray painting equipment. If you have spray equipment here's another custom lacquer formula that you can use: 2 qt. PPG mixing black #386 1 qt. universal flattening agent 1 qt. mixing clear #3 10 PPG DTL16 thinner Master cylinder: Most of the GM cars came with natural finish master cylinders. For a lasting natural look, they can be painted with cast-iron gray paint, which is available from a variety of sources such as The Eastwood Company, VHT, and Krylon. Master cylinder lid: The master cylinder lid should be cadmium dichromate (gold rainbow cad This type of plating is available from several sources. The master cylinder bail clips are natural metal. PCV- hose clips: Black oxide. Power brake booster: All GM power brake boosters were cadmium dichromate. The two companies mentioned above can rebuild and re-plate your power-booster. Power brake hose clips: Black oxide. Power steering pump: Gloss black enamel. Power steering brackets: Semi-gloss black enamel. Some brackets may actually look like a cross between semi-gloss and gloss black. Radiator: All GM cars of this era had Harrison radiators that were painted gloss black. Radiator cap: Radiator caps were not painted, they were plated. Radiator shroud: Radiator shrouds should be left natural plastic. Some shrouds on early GM cars were steel and they should be painted semi-gloss to gloss black. Shock absorbers: Gloss gray enamel. Steering box: The cast-iron portion of the box is natural finish. The access lid is natural aluminum; the bolts are black oxide. Stabilizer bar: Depending upon the GM division, these can be natural or semi-gloss black. Stabilizer bar brackets: Depending upon the GM division and supplier, the brackets can be semi-gloss black or natural. Tie rods, steering components: Natural steel finish. These components can be painted with clear or cast-iron colored paint. Voltage regulator cover: Gloss-black enamel. Water pump pulley, crankshaft pulley: Semi-gloss black, some crank pulleys were cast and left natural finish. Some water pump pulleys on early GM muscle cars were zinc plated. Windshield wiper motor: Gloss black finish.

Wayne, Following are some instructions for removing the dash which I believe were written by one of our members: Just take your time and don't try to just force any part of it. The dash pods in our cars are VERY BRITTLE and will break if you just look at it wrong. Here is what I had to do: 1. UNHOOK BATTERY then Remove the dash pad 2. Unbolt two lower and three upper dash bolts (corners of the dash and near defrost vent) at this point the dash will be a bit easier to move but not even close to come out. 3. I cut a 2x4 to use as a small wedge and removed the a/c duct above the climate controls and placed the wedge there to hold the dash out about 1 1/2 inches from normal. That is all I "needed" but would have gone a bit further knowing how tight it all was 4. Remove the headlight switch knob by pulling it out to the on position and pushing the button on the side of the switch mechanism and removing. 5. Remove the switch itself by removing retainer from the knob side. It can be unplugged and put to the side until the job is done. 6. Remove the small ground wire from the drivers side of the rear of the gauge pod 7. Now you can remove the under column cover and then the screw on the lower side of the steering column that retains the gear selector wire and unhook the clip and leave it hang. **REMEMBER THIS IS THERE WHEN YOU REMOVE THE GAUGES OR YOU WILL BE MAKING EVEN MORE REPAIRS** ask how I know 8. While you are down there, remove the two bolts that hold the steering column in and support the column so it does not get bent. 9. Above the column, at the lower side of the gauges there are two 1/4 fasteners that need to be removed. The connect the gauge pod through two metal supports into the lower dash 10. Remove the three fasteners at the top of the dash pod (rear) and I believe two that are down the sides. 11. Remove the wire harness by depressing the clips on the sides and pulling it free, be careful not to rip the printed circuit, then if you have the factory clock remove the adjuster from the dash side with a small screwdriver 12. Pull the dash forward a bit and reach down the back and unhook the speedometer cable by pushing in the retainer and removing the cable Your dash panel should now be free from anything holding it there, make sure I did not miss anything by looking carefully around the perimeter and you can now carefully guide the dash panel out of the dash. You may need an extra set of hands to keep wires out of the way when you get near the speedometer mount and don't forget you have that clip hanging at the bottom

Wayne, Converting your idiot light instrument cluster to a full gauge cluster is a very worthwhile project and complete kits, including the other circuit panel, all the gauges and extra wires, are readily available on eBay. What was missing from the otherwise excellent kit I bought several years ago was a good set of instructions. I wrote up a detailed set of instructions after struggling through my conversion project and had it verified by Darren Bull (LS5) who knows our dashes like he invented them (maybe he did). When you get ready to convert your dash, you may want to review my project photo journal at this LINK and then shoot me an email with your address so I can send you a Word file with the detailed instructions. BTW, you may want to consider converting to LEDs when you do this conversion. Good luck.

Brian, No, the salvage guy I know and use is in Cleveland, FL since my '70 4-speed lives in Punta Gorda, FL. I have found Jeep parts at a salvage yard in Brainerd, MN but have not searched for any first gen Monte parts there. I can stop by there when I'm in town next and see if they have any first gen power steering setups, if you want.