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MonteCarloTerp

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About MonteCarloTerp

  • Birthday 08/22/1983

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    MD

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  1. Quote: I'd say that's important.. although you could reroute the wiring to the HEI distributor, I'd have to say it has a dead short to fry the wire all over again.. and when you say it fried the stater wire you mean!..the wire that originates from the starter R terminal (the #6 stud furthest from the engine block on the starter solenoid). This wire provides full battery voltage to the coil during cranking only. Couple Things: 1. ^^Yes, this is the wire I'm talking about. What do you think is causing the dead short? I replaced the entire wire after the first time, with good clean connections at the ends. 2. What are some replacement/reroute options?
  2. So I went to start the car after disconnecting the trans and I fried the starter wire again (the one from the starter to HEI). Totally destroyed/melted. Fixing this/finding the cause of the short becomes priority I guess. Jon
  3. I sort of threw most ignition related causes out because the timing is still good. Rice gave me this advice awhile back and it was running great: Quote: Ok, first off the engine is no longer stock so throw the stock base timing out the window with that short quick timing curve in the dist. You do set idle in gear. Set your base timing at 12 deg btdc with the vacuum adv plugged. Then adjust your idle too 700 rpm in drive with the vac adv hooked up. Then plug the vac adv again and recheck timing if it changed due to rpm change, it could depending on the weight of the mechanical adv springs springs, repeat this procedure until you get 12 deg base timing with no vac adv at 700 rpms in drive once you get this then hook the vac adv back up readjust the idle speed back to 700 in drive, this way you know that at 700 it still has enough base timing. The timing mark was still at 12btdc with the vac plugged at 700rpm, so Im good with that. Anyway, what am I going to need to do to run the engine with the tranny disconnected. Can I just unbolt the converter, or do I need to pull it too before I can run without damage (Im worried about the flex plate banging the converter or something).
  4. I already replaced the tranny modulator at the rear of the trans (is this the "xmsn"?) I've been leaning towards the torque converter being the problem. I'm going to take your advice, unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter and see how it runs disconnected sometime this week.
  5. Replaced a partially melted spark plug wire, a melted vacuum line (to the heater valve), and checked the motor mounts (they are fine). The symptoms seem to be getting worse. I fired it up, and tried to back out of the driveway. More shaking/vibration than ever. RPMs dropped all the way to 300-400 when tried backing out in reverse (almost stalled out), so I didnt take her anywhere. At this rate, she won't run at all pretty soon. Jon
  6. Sorry guys! Been keeping up with this thread, but haven't been around the car to work on it. I'll keep you updated!
  7. Ok, couple things to respond to: 1. The "bang" sounded like something shifting/moving and I felt something through the floorboards (my foot was on the gas). Not a backfire. 2. I don't think the HEI is damaged because my timing is still were it was before the problem. (Atleast without vacuum using a timing light) 3. I still never really found the source of the leak, but I'm 99% sure its from the front tranny seal/torque converter (i just cant see for sure) even though I did replace that seal when I put the new engine in. Also - that white smoke could have been that wire melting. It was completely fried...not sure if wire sheathing can produce that much smoke, but maybe.
  8. Changed tranny filter, fixed loose oil plate bolt in tranny, replaced tranny modulator. Found the wire from the starter to HEI dist was completely fried. Not sure how this happened, but it was burnt to a crisp. Replaced that wire. Car still idles rough with RPM fluctuations. Maybe I'm looking in the wrong place, I think I will repost this in the engine forum.
  9. That would suck to pull off all that stuff to check...you think I could tell with a stethoscope or something?
  10. Ok, I did some digging today. The car seems ok until RPMS drop to normal idle speed (after the car warms up). Then it gets rough and I get some RPM variation (small up and down fluctuations). 1. After unbolting the torque converter, I checked the flexplate very closely, nothing out of the ordinary. All teeth are good. Also the balance weight is still there. 2. I dropped the tranny pan, no metal pieces, but I did find one problem: ^^^ The circled bolt hole above is stripped. I have the B&M kit installed, so its holding the middle support plate, the oil transfer plate, and then the stock spacer plate together (in that order). Its suppose to be torqued at 100in-lbs. I must have done this when I installed the kit a few months ago. But I dont see how this is related to any sudden vibration problems. Also there is no binding when I move the shifter anymore (????). Maybe this isnt a tranny problem and I'm looking in the wrong areas? But that doesnt explain the trouble shifting and the white smoke I had... All I know is there was a loud bang and now the car runs rough at idle speeds. The starter problem I don't care about unless its related to the roughness/vibration. So confused, Jon
  11. Alright, I will look at the flex plate more closely next time I can. I will keep you updated. Any chance that all these problems are related to a bad torque converter?
  12. Ok, let me start by saying I have a 70 with recently rebuilt 400sb, matched with the original/stock coverter and TH350 trans (B&M shift kit installed) Driving around 1 day about 2 months ago, I stopped for gas. When I tried to start up the car again, the starter (new) made a strange whirring/grinding sound. I chalked this up to a hot starter problem and had to wait 10-15min to get going again. But this is when the real problems started. Pulling away from the station, there was a loud bang (like something shifting around) and the car started vibrating real bad (running rough). I limped the 2 miles home. I havent had time to work on this until now. Ive started with the simple things: change the motor oil, check the timing, reset carb air/fuel. No problems there. So heres the summary: 1. Car starts good and idles in park intially as normal (no vibration/rough running) 2. Shift into drive/rev the car starts running rough (shaking pretty bad). It seems to get worse with time. 3. There is a small leak from I *think* the front tranny seal - hard to track it 4. Car is very difficult to shift back into park (this is a new problem) In fact, I seem to be getting more and more trouble shifting the car back into park. The latest problem is that even through the shifter was clearly in park, the car didnt seem to recognize this and refused to start. I jiggled the shifter and this time the starter made the same whirring/grinding sound. I then ran the shifter up and down through the gears, but when I did this a huge plume of white smoke came out of the engine bay (car not running, but the engine/headers were still very hot). I decided to stop for the night at this point. The starter problem may or may not be related to the rough running (the real problem). But it is a brand new starter (I replaced the old one for the identical problem). So I need some theories of what is going on here and hopefully some kind of plan. Thanks for reading this long post, Jon I just want to add that I checked the bellhousing and torque converter bolts and they seem ok.
  13. I hate AutoZone so much, I am sick of dealing with the aholes that work there, but its the closest thing I got.
  14. Great Post! Definately saved all those to the hard drive. Jon
  15. I just took my car out under the blistering sun and put the vinyl top on. Wow, what a difference. With the top under the sun it was incredibly easy to stretch out nicely. I started from the front and did it in 4 sections. I did however end up with some disappointing wrinkles on the sail panels (where the Monte Carlo script goes). But heres why I'm writing this: Take an iron, put it on the lowest setting for delicate and it will take those wrinkles right out. I had some scraps I tested on first, and yes the vinyl will melt very easily if its too hot.
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