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1970mcss

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Everything posted by 1970mcss

  1. The thick (12ga) purple wire on my 70 goes to the starter solenoid if that helps
  2. Horn relay was the answer, the key buzzer still doesn't work but that might be a good thing. Not sure were else to look. Just a FYI, I bought the 35 dollar relay and cleaned and painted the old "delco" tin cover and swapped it out with the new one. One way to keep the original look and save 40 dollars
  3. Yes I agree but I didn't know if they could be fixed, thanks the order is going in right now
  4. The orange with the fuse is for the heater blower motor but that should be up on the right side of the firewall
  5. The instrument panel wiring diagram shows a 18ga yellow wire to the heater control. I don't see any yellow wire in the engine compartment except for the 20ga yellow from the starter solenoid to the coil. It sounds like someone might have added an extra wire for some reason. I have been working through the same thing with my car, trying to figure out what others did to these cars can be a mystery. I'm still learning how to read these diagrams so maybe someone else will respond.
  6. Is it possible to fix the relay or just replace it?
  7. Robert, the horns both work when wired to the battery. I don't hear the relay clicking. Not sure if there is a rebuild that can be done on the relay. I saw a video on youtube on how to test the relay. I may try that before ordering a new relay
  8. All, I have been working on a few wiring issues on the car. The horns aren't working. If I run a patch wire to the horns the both work. I put a test light on the horn wire at the ignition switch and when I push the born button it lights up. I also tested the 20ga wire at the relay and it lights up at the relay. I think I'm looking at a bad horn relay?? Any way to test the relay?? Any way to repair?? Thanks in advance, Paul
  9. I used Dennis's technique on my 70 grille and it came out almost better than new. Good luck with your 71 grille...
  10. The parts book that I have shows 4 full wheel covers for 1970 Monte Carlos. 3972748 Colored, 3972645 Chrome, 3957645 (1st Design) Sim Wire Wheel, 3968716 Mag Type flat Black. See the attached pages. I remember the first 3 but I thought the mag type was for the Chevelle. I hope that helps
  11. Thanks Dennis, I finally got the car started so this will be my next project. Although now I noticed the horn stopped working so I have to find out why. I'm not sure if something in the horn contact went wrong or if I have a problem with the relay. I'm not sure how to test it. Thanks again with the hood light
  12. Dennis, I didn't see it in the diagram ether. I thought about using the extra orange lead but I will look for the wire at the relay. What guage wire would that have been? Thanks
  13. I think I found the anwsers to my question if someone can confirm. The factory and replacement harnesses came with the orange wire for non air cars(chevelles). The assemebly workers would cut and tape the wire if not needed. The prior owner had it routed to the transmission so I assumed it was for the TCS system. The pink pigtail connector was added to the harness for a Chevelle with a working cowl flap. Now I just have to figure out how the hood light was powered.. please let me know if this seems correct....
  14. I have been fixing some shotty wiring on my car. I have a orange wire hanging under the car. The harness was replaced and the assembly manual shows a orange wire for a manual trans. The other issue I have is the black with purple stripe was spliced, I'm not sure where the wires are to go. I think it is for the TSC switch. Can anyone help....
  15. Thanks, more questions.. Someone replaced the engine harness, do the replacement harness come with a extra TCS soleniod wire(orange) for a manual trans?? also, my car came with a after market starter with a shield. Did these cars have heat shields for the starter?? I don't think they did. Thanks in advance, Paul
  16. I unbolted the harness from the block retainer and found the wires were spliced and the casing on both wires had rubbed through and I'm assuming touching each other or the block. I will repair those wires and reinstall. One question I have is does the starter get grounded to the chassis?? I don't see that the assembly manual shows a ground wire.
  17. Thanks Dennis, I think the plan to run complete new wires will eliminate my problem. I have replaced the starter and neutral safety switch and still nothing. Thanks again
  18. The wiring diagram shows a 20 Y wire between the coil and the starter solenoid and 12 ppl. I assume that 20 & 12 is the gauge of the wire. 20 seems small to me. I have been having starter problems and when I got the car it looks like the two leads to the solenoid have been spliced so I thinking I need to run new wires.
  19. I changed out both battery cables and fusible link over the winter but I will check that out. Thanks
  20. Thanks Steve, I'm leaning toward a new stater. In the paper work I got with the car, the prior owner put on a rebuilt starter back in 2002. I hope that will fix the problem. Off coarse last night it started right up, thanks again and if you're headed to the eastern meet be safe. I wish it was closer to Chicago
  21. I have been having problems with the starter off and on since I bought the car. Sunday I went to back the car out to clean the garage and it wouldn't start. he car had been sitting for a few weeks so I thought the battery was drained. I jumped the car and it started. I tolk it for a long drive and came back, cleaned the garage. When I tried to start it again, nothing. The jumpers didn't work, I tapped the starter with a hammer and it started. Another issue is the horn stopped working. Is the horn relay part of the ignition system?? The starter looks like it's new. Do I just replace it or look for something else. If so what starters do you all recomend? AC Delco?
  22. There should be a tag with a letter code on it
  23. I used Gray RTV from GM and thread sealer also from Chevrolet.
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