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wallaby

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wallaby last won the day on June 24 2017

wallaby had the most liked content!

About wallaby

  • Rank
    Mechanical Visionary
  • Birthday 12/11/1959

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  • Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Interests
    Nearly anything mechanical or creative. I love airplane noise.
  • Legal Name
    Mark A
  • Occupation
    Heavy Equipment Transportation. ( ok, I'm a truck driver).

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  1. if you can get it to idle down, it won't clunk so hard when you put it in gear, and it won't try to pull you when you are stopped...also reduces engine run-on when you shut it off. Depending on your cam, it may not want to idle that slow. If that's the case, a bit more slip in the converter will let the engine do what it wants without trying to bring the car along. The downside is that mileage drops, and you get less engine braking on deceleration...I hate that. The theory is that more stall will let the engine rev where it makes power, but too much will make it feel as if the engine is taking off without the car... and the car catches up later. They say the quarter mile time slips are better with a high stall, but it can take away from that "seat of the pants" feel of a high torque engine. So it's a double-edge sword. I like the connected feel of a clutch, and a slippery converter takes that away. If you have to go "high stall" only go as far as is required. My advice is to make a phone call and seek advice for your needs...don't buy off the shelf.
  2. Wow. That looks great. I could never do it. Seems like that would be the easy part though...cuz I know somewhere there is a huge pile of dirty parts that need to go to that level and be put back on.
  3. Now if someone has a trick to get the INSIDE mirror to stay adjusted....
  4. You just installed hydroboost? The only problem I had with mine was the return line. I used a bulkhead connector to a flat spot on the side of my PS pump, and it was too close to the fluid level inside and would aerate the fluid. I had to modify the neck on my pump to raise the fluid level to stop that from happening. I still have dreams of welding a different connector near the bottom of the pump, but at the time I didn't have a welder.
  5. I had a problem with the dot 5 stuff long ago, but that was in a British car that had natural rubber seals and normally uses organic fluid.. In that case, everything that had rubber in it was ruined...brake master, wheel cyls, flex brake lines...everything. The flex lines got so swollen they closed off internally. I thought I was being smart and using a fluid that didn't attract water, as I was dealing with an old land rover at the time. Figured it would be a good thing if I ever went through any deep water; turned out that a simple brake fluid change became a high dollar repair. From now on I will always use what the filler cap tells me to use.
  6. A bit of a tangent here...does anyone know if the 71SS bumper has a different part number on it, or is it just a standard bumper with holes drilled in it for the rubber strip?
  7. Are you using rubber or poly bushings? If using poly, you need to use their lube between the inner tube and the bushing material. (the outside of the inner tube). No lube needed for rubber bushings.
  8. Is there a way to adjust the power steering boost? I have my pump running both the steering assist, and a hydroboost power brake unit...both are very touchy. My steering feels over assisted, and there is no feel of the road...the brakes require just the weight of my toe. Panic stops almost always bring on wheel lockup. Is there a way to dial down the amount of assist I get? I want to have more weight to the steering, and use a little more leg when braking.
  9. Is the overspray somewhat fresh, or old? mineral spirits work well with a rag to remove recent paint. Mineral spirits also make a good solvent for parts cleaning. If its old paint, the mineral spirits might have a tough time with it. Lacquer thinner is stronger stuff that might work, but it tends to dissolve everything it comes in contact with...like plastics. The good news it that the fan shroud wasn't painted, so scrubbing won't reveal anything you wouldn't see anyway...unless someone in the past painted it and that makes your job tougher
  10. camshaft selection is a tough decision. It determines the behavior of your engine like no other ad-on piece. Mechanical and roller cams are hard to compare. Rollers get the job done with much less duration, so a roller cam with good specs ends up having a decent idle, while the mechanical (flat) cam ends up with a rough idle...doing the same job. and small block engines have different needs than big block engines. Comparing cam specs between the two only causes confusion.
  11. that's them. Once you get into the 110 LSA cams, you loose vacuum and brakes can be an issue, Sadly, they also give that rotten idle that sounds good to the ear. The bigger the engine, the more cam it will take. A 454 might be happy with the 703, but the 396/402 engine might find it a bit much for a daily driver. It;s always better to error on the small side...that's probably why the cam guy recommended the 701, No matter what cam you choose, it's bound to be better than the stock cam because of the added lift the aftermarket cams give. Stock cams are around 480 max lift I think...to go bigger you will need long slot rockers and matching springs, as the stock pieces won't handle larger lift.
  12. well, the low speed runs all the time when the key is on. Not sure if it is the orange wire or not. I hated that function and unhooked my low speed so that position on the switch became "off"
  13. I think the 201 is too small for a muscle car. Might be good in a boat, or a motorhome. I ran the 202 in my otherwise stock 454 and even with it's low compression I got decent vacuum, mileage, and a sound from the tailpipe that gave the impression something might be lurking under the hood. I had a comp xtreme 286 before the voodoo and i liked the voodoo better. A big block engine has enough torque that you will never notice any loss in low speed grunt with the larger cam vs the smaller one, but you very well might notice a difference at higher rpms. Funny, I tried to look them up at Summit, and the part numbers are different, or have changed. Both the voodoo cams have good descriptions with them. I think with the higher compression you are running, the larger cam will be more pump gas friendly. Summit numbers: Voodoo 10110701, and Voodoo 10110702. Both of these are hydraulic flat tappet cams.
  14. to prevent the run-on when you shut it off, try shutting it off while it's still in gear.... I got in that habit years ago. Once the engine stops, put it in park. it won't fix your electric gremlin, but if the starter decides to work it will start easier if the engine didn't run-on earlier.
  15. a good bleeding of the lines might be in order. I had an old car that would slowly apply the brakes as I drove higher in elevation. I actually had to stop and let some pressure out 1/2 way to my destination. No problem on the way down. A good pressure bleed with fresh fluid fixed it.
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