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wallaby

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wallaby last won the day on June 5 2021

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About wallaby

  • Birthday 12/11/1959

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  • Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Interests
    Nearly anything mechanical or creative. I love airplane noise.
  • Legal Name
    Mark A
  • Occupation
    Heavy Equipment Transportation. ( ok, I'm a truck driver).

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  • Mechanical Visionary

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  1. There is usually some fine-tuning of linkage when doing a carb swap. The new carbs are sort of "universal" and may not be exactly the way you are used to. I am putting together a small block right now with that same carb, and the relation of the throttle to the kickdown is a bit different than GM carbs had. It would seem that the linkage attachment points on the new carb are a bit closer together than on the original carb...(more compact, if you will)...and it messes with the cable travel on both the throttle and the kickdown. You can start by loosening the bolt on the back of the carb that also holds down the throttle cable bracket, and doing your best to rotate that bracket as far rearward as it will go to eliminate some of the cable slack. I had to modify my bracket a bit to get a good fit, so maybe a new bracket would be better to experiment with...rather than messing with the bracket you have? I also made myself a bushing that goes in the large hole where you presently have your return spring, so I can mount my cable connection there. A washer or 2 of the correct outer diameter might fill that hole like a thin bushing. With a larger washer on both sides to sandwich the bushing in place, you can mount your throttle connection pin through it all to hold the whole mess together.. So the idea is to move the cable connection point forward, and the cable housing mount rearward. Once you have that set up to your liking, the trans kickdown can be hooked up and adjusted. My setup was good, but it didn't pull the kickdown cable far enough. The plastic clip used for cable adjustment has plenty of travel to make the cable longer, but limited travel for making it shorter. I had to enlarge the holes in the bracket that bolts to the rear of the intake so I could move that bracket a bit further rearward to make my cable a bit shorter. Adjustment of the kickdown is simple...Lift the plastic clip on your cable adjustment. Open the choke on your carb with your finger, and with the other hand open the throttle fully. While holding the throttle fully open, push the cable plastic clip back down to lock it in place. (it will snap when it seats fully) The cable adjustment should be correct then. There should be a tiny gap between the pin on the carb and the end of the long slot on the cable end....you want to achieve full throttle just before the cable reaches full extension, but you also want the cable to be pulled as far as possible without hindering the carb movement.
  2. I have another project I am working on that has a big camshaft. I went with an adjustable PCV valve from M/E Wagner. Kinda pricey, but figured it would be the last one I'd ever need to buy. Some good reading on their site as well. http://mewagner.com/?p=444
  3. Hmm...owners manual says Dexron II. The type F is a bit thicker and gives a firmer shift. Maybe that's just old "bench racing" rumors. I still have an old cardboard can of B&M trickshft...that stuff is blue. [scene fades to flashback segment...Youth plunging spout into cardboard oil can and side of can collapses..empty cans strewn about driveway...]
  4. You have the problem under control then? I was surprised nobody mentioned the 4-way flashers until we got pretty far into the post.
  5. Sounds a s if your 4-way flasher switch is in the ON position. When the 4-ways are running normally, stepping on the brake will freeze the blinking process and all four corners will be brightly lit. I used to put on the parking lamps, turn on the 4-ways and drag the brakes to exit my driveway early in the morning so my headlights didn't wake my neighbor. Having the front lamps lit bright like that was good enough to see where I was going. Do your 4-way flashers work? I'm thinking maybe your hazard flasher is bad...the switch has them on, but you don't know it.
  6. Let me guess: You tightened the spring tension on the secondary air valves?
  7. FYI. I ran Merlin iron heads on mine, and spark plug location was an issue. I was also running factory manifolds. With headers, they were ok.
  8. The trick is in the air cleaner base. I ran a RPM Q-jet manifold with a drop base air cleaner and it all fit. I ran a 3" tall filter...the lid constantly rubbed the underhood insulation, but never the hood.
  9. They all mount up the same. There might be a difference in the "clocking" of the wire connections. but that can be changed easily. Ignore the amp ratings for rebuilt alternators, they grab a case from a pile and fill it with the average stuff. Who knows what case they grabbed.
  10. I had an issue with a broken valve spring once....It was a bugger to figure out.
  11. Same thing with chevys. The sender is a variable ground. No ground at all, the gauge goes one way, and a perfect ground sends the gauge the other way. I have seen issues when teflon tape is used on the threads causing a poor ground. I have a thread sealant made of lead, made in the 50's...eco unfriendly, but works great as a conductor and an anti-sieze.
  12. If you want original stuff, You're going to be stuck with a small cap, and a set of points and condenser. Keep a matchbook in the glovebox, and don't forget to use cam lube on the rubbing block. Ditto the above, HEI didn't come available until 74-75, but is a worthwhile upgrade.
  13. Where is the leak? Brass radiators are usually easy to fix. The aftermarket will try to sell you an aluminum radiator: they are much lighter, but look completely different. I went with a Be-Cool radiator in mine, it works fine but didn't fit in the original mounting rubbers. As I said,( even if you were to paint it black), the square tanks on the aluminum jobs look like a modification from the original radiator.
  14. I don't know about the MSD setup, but have HEI in mine. My HEI requires only a hot wire from the ignition. It's sensitive though, and requires a full 12+ volt supply...I have my power routed through a relay for the power supply. When I changed to a mini starter, I had to install a diode kit because the mini has no dedicated feed for ignition while cranking. The diode kit is just a length of wire from the starter that has a diode along its length. I got the diode kit from American auto wire.
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