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wallaby last won the day on June 24 2017

wallaby had the most liked content!

About wallaby

Dues paying 10+ years
  • Rank
    Mechanical Visionary
  • Birthday 12/11/1959

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  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    Sacramento, CA
  • Interests
    Nearly anything mechanical or creative. I love airplane noise.
  • Occupation
    Heavy Equipment Transportation. ( ok, I'm a truck driver).

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  1. I second the Cliffs. He is the one place I know of that does them right. They don't come cheap, but once you run a proper Q-jet, you won't have need or want for anything else.
  2. Who are you, and how'd you get in here? I'm a locksmith, and...I'm a locksmith. That's a feeble attempt at the Hard Luck award.
  3. That's why the generic term for those is "jesus" clips.
  4. My local chain parts supplier has these in a package of different sizes. Sure you have to buy 10 to get the one you want, but they are cheap. I think Home Depot has them too, if you are willing to dig through all the drawers where they keep the plastic washers and such in the hardware isle. The real question is why they keep falling out. A bad groove in the stud? a worn out weight that rattles around? I've never had one come out...
  5. Getting fuel is important...stay with that project. Once it's back together try starting the engine. If' you're lucky, that's all it needs. If it doesn't start some items to check are: ignition timing. Did you have the distributor out? it's common to get the rotor 180 degrees off when reinstall of the distributor. Make sure the rotor is at #1 when that cyl is at the top of the compression stroke, not the top of the exhaust stroke. Does the carb choke work? It sounds to me like your ignition is working, I'd focus on the other stuff.
  6. wallaby


    No...I went with the aluminized steel. I insisted that the muffler shop do everything, including the flare at the engine end for the exhaust donuts. This turned out to be a nightmare. The thing they managed to fab was awful. It was like a 2" pipe welded into a larger pipe that had the flare... I didn't want 2" pipe anywhere, let alone right up against the engine. This is all just FYI. It's better to use the original first bit of length and have them add your system behind it. You can probably find the pre-bent section that goes behind the mufflers and over the axle. Stainless even...the entire system is the same as Chevelle. You can get a full Chevelle setup and have them put in. Your next quandary is going to be: what kind of muffler should I use?
  7. wallaby


    Most of us have gone with a 2 1/2 inch system. I have one on my '71 SS. I used a shorty header, but they are kind of a pain. The factory manifolds are ugly to look at, but work pretty well and keep the engine bay cooler and quieter. My headers are close to everything; the suspension, the oil filter, the spark plugs.... I ordered a set of mandrel pre-bent pipes from the mufflers back, and had a muffler shop do the easy part from the mufflers forward.
  8. I'm guessing new cushions would work just as well, but may come with a penalty.
  9. The black wire going to the external capacitor isn't going to affect the ignition, it just quiets the ignition noise from coming thru the radio. The Yellow wire is important; it supplies power to the ignition when you have the key twisted into the "start" position. If you leave the wire from the starter unhooked, the engine will crank but not start.... or sometimes you get lucky and it will start just as you let go of the key. The ignition switch is constructed in a way that when it's turned to start it will power up the starter motor, but it shuts off power to the ignition at the same time. The activation of the starter sends power through the R terminal to give power to your ignition. It's weird, but it works. It's their way of giving a full 12 volts to the ignition when starting. Once you let go of the key and it returns to the "run" position, the starter stops and the ignition is fed through the ignition switch and resistance wire to give something close to 9 volts to extend the life of the ignition points. I just went through all this when I installed a hi-torque mini starter as it didn't have any "R" terminal. I had to buy a wiring kit with a diode to perform the same job the factory starter did.
  10. I think everyone goes through this stuff when they bring home a new car that's....old. My problem is I figure if that stock original part only lasted for 40+ years, there must be a better part to replace it with. LOL Some of the new technology is nice to have, but don't forget that the old analog stuff is tried and true. Do a double check to make sure your battery ground cable is firmly connected to a good clean spot on your engine. I was spending a lot of money on parts and had to use jumper cables to get any results, and once started I was afraid to turn it off. I did my diagnosis in the wrong order. New battery cables were the last item on my "replace" list, and when I was taking off the old ground cable I found that the hold-down bolt has backed way off and was hardly holding up that end of the cable. D'oh! Well, It's good to know I have a new starter, battery, and cables.... and I know my car is faster now with all the weight reduction I did to my wallet. Also, do you have some fresh gas in that thing? I know my lawn mower hates old fuel, same thing with cars. As for that funky clip, I've seen them plenty of times but don't recall a Q-jet using one. It is a part that usually comes with a rebuild kit, and might be a cheap replacement for a tiny hairpin (Jesus) clip. It fits over a groove in a shaft and gets squeezed with pliers so it can't fall off. You guys with mechanical choke coils might have seen it under the choke coil cover? All my stuff is electric choke. Geez... I can remember trying to manipulate that tiny hairpin clip somewhere..
  11. For the most part, the float should be sitting level. There are different specs, but they are like 1/32" different from each other... with your eyeball the float should be level and no more when the needle closes. I would bet that it's just stuck. If the "friendly" tapping on the carb doesn't loosen it, it's time to take the top off the carb. The good news is that no fuel is going to dump out when you lift the top off. The bad news is that the top is kinda tricky to remove because of the accelerator pump linkage; you have to drive out the pivot pin just enough to release the arm... and then when you lift up the top, there are a bunch of metering rods dangling underneath. Pay attention which holes in the gasket those rods are lifting out of. There are a couple of hidden screws that hold down the top under the choke flapper if I remember correct. A magnetic screwdriver is great for this job, but the screws cant go far as they are pretty large and won't fall past the carb venturi and into the engine or anything. .
  12. Any size is good until you get to the part that goes up & over the rear axle... that's where it gets tight. I purchased a set of pipes that were mandrel bent for just that job, and had a muffler shop do the rest. The muffler shops can't bend anything larger than 2 1/4" without crushing it in the process. Most of the rest of the system is close to straight anyway, so some slight bends were easy for them to do to get it all nice and tight and complete. I have a 454 and went with 2.5". You will find that most mufflers that have a 3" inlet/outlet are only 2.5 though the inside.
  13. wallaby

    BB 454 HEADs

    Yep. 2 bolt mains and a cast crank are good up to the 500hp range.
  14. wallaby

    BB 454 HEADs

    I agree with the above. The problem is GETTING that compression. The good-breathing heads are open chamber and finding a piston to fill it is a challenge. It seems they have lots of choices for 8:1 compression, and then it jumps to 12:1. Planning an engine build can be an exhausting process. You find the perfect part you need, and then you have to change a bunch of stuff to make it work.... But it doesn't have to be that hard. Save your money for the parts that make the most improvement. The cheapest way to get more horsepower is to put in a larger engine. That being said, the big improvements will come with a fresh set of stock oval port heads, and a cam. Don't forget to get the matching lifters and springs. If you're in there, figure on replacing the timing chain as well. A professionally recurved distributor makes a "seat of the pants" difference. Everything else for me was money spent, but little difference felt. Intake, carb, headers, all add little and can be added later if you want. I ran a stock 396 with nothing but a cam upgrade, and it was amazing. Very powerful, reliable, and cheap. That engine still had the iron intake, exhaust, and Q-jet carb and was good for low 13's.
  15. wallaby

    BB 454 HEADs

    The factory heads on mine had induction-hardened valve seats for use with unleaded fuels. My machine shop said I would loose the hardened seats if I wanted to install a larger valve. I could have hardened seat inserts put in, but it's pricey... it was cheaper to buy a new set of Merlins that were already set up. For me, the major problem with the Merlins was the raised exhaust ports. It's a big selling feature and improves flow, but it causes very tight clearance for the spark plugs. I had big issue with the stock cast-iron exhaust manifolds, as there was no air gap between spark plug boots and the manifold. Even the skinniest boot would press against the manifold. The boots would burn through in no time. I ended up going to a header, but those are bent for un-raised ports also, and came with a new set of issues.
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