badddoin

I wasn't able to get a fitting to work anywhere on my intake, without interfering with the carburetor. I just ran a short piece of rubber line from the base of the carburetor to a "T", one side goes to the booster, the other to the PCV.

Congratulations, welding is a game-changer. Oh, and I've seen a lot worse.

Your nitrous test bench looks very similar to my nitrous mock-up bench. It should definitely get the job done.

I finally took the plunge and bought a lift. If anyone knows why I didn't do this 5 years ago, before two tranny swaps, new exhaust, break lines, rear end rebuild, etc., I'd be interested. Edit: Apparently I've also defied all of the laws of physics.

Thanks. I gotta do something. It sounds like I'm strangling kittens or something.

Ditto on not being an expert. It would seem to me, though, that you could set your bypass reg. at 10PSI and do away with the nitrous deadhead reg. You should have ten pounds everywhere behind your deadhead reg. (carb) and your solenoids (nitrous). You have plenty of volume w/ that pump. Is that pump any quieter than my Holley black? I despise that thing.

That's some real nice looking work there.

I had a heck of a time plumbing my plate system, on my small block. I have up on the steel lines altogether, and got some copper tubing.

I can feel the excitement from here. Getting very close.

Those type of repairs are bigly expensive to have done. Cbolt is spot-on IMO. This is a great opportinity to learn to weld in floor pans, provided you have the time and inclination. I did the three-piece trunk pan in my 72. It came out nice - not perfect by any means, but better than I thought it would. I will warn you, though: it's a lot of work, and ain't none of it easy, either. I'd probably do it again, though, if I had to. If you decide to farm it out, do some research and use someone reputable. There's plenty of hacks in that business, and you'd probably be better off doing nothing than letting somebody go in there and butcher it up. Best of luck. Remember there's plenty of people on this forum to walk you through the indecisive moments.

My 4.10 gears with a 27.75 in. tire turns about 3100 @60 mph.

I've been adding some new junk. New 4150 HP 750 Holley carb, new black Holley fuel pump, new regulator, some groovy new braided fuel line, 2 stage NOS system, MSD digital 6A box. It was a monster chore to make it all fit and work. I still have quite a bit of cleaning up of wires and stuff to do.

Some are rope, others rubber. You're suppose to be able to push one side up and grab the other end w\plyers or something (Good luck with that.). The last one I changed - and the motor was out of the car - I had to remove ALL the main caps, and pull the vrank down a little to get it to break free, then re-torque the caps. I don't know that I'd attempt that under the car, but maybe. If I was commited to trying that, if necessary, I'd first attempt to scrwe a sheet metal screw up into one end of the seal, being VERY MINDFUL of not letting it make contacr with the crank. Then I'd grab the screw with Vice Grips and pull gently, while pushing on the other end with some non-metal thing - maybe something like a pencil. When that didn't work, and it probably won't, I'd take the caps off. Remember to put a little silicone where the seal halves meet on reinstalation. Good luck.

I usually avoid doing things right the first time.

After replacing the master on my Monte, I had to bleed it at the the break lines where they meet the master. Got a little air out, even though I bench bled it. Easy thing to try.